stuck hub i think

jeepinairman · Sep 4, 2006

alright..

ive been having this grinding nasty noise from my drivers side wheel for the psat week.mainly when i turn...yesterday i finally got around to jackin up the front end and see what it was..

i have never changed one of these before.....i have changed the one on the ds but not the axel shaft

after looking over and over everything i determined it was the u joint on the axel shaft so i went to autozone and bought one

everything seemed to come apart fine till i get to taking out the shaft

i have been beating the hell out of this thing for a few hours this morning from the rear from the sides and i CANNOT make this damn hub/axel whatever i am taking apart, move.

anyone?????

i am using this write up and he makes it sound like it should pop right out

http://www.delta4x4club.com/TECH/UNIVERSAL/UJOINTS.php

:skull2:

Matthew Currie · Sep 4, 2006

"You may need to tap on the hub assembly" is like saying "If you intend to spend a week on the Sahara it might be wise to bring along some water."

The hub assembly is, at best, a tight fit in the knuckle. When it rusts in, be prepared to have to yank, hammer, pry, and consume some time. If the rust isn't too bad, it is sometimes possible to loosen the bolts that hold it in from behind and then hammer on them to dislodge it, but if it is very rusty, do not hit too hard or you'll mash the bolts. It is also possible if you have an axle-pulling slide hammer, to use that, but make sure that you leave the axle nut installed at least finger-tight, or you'll pull the hub apart. Similarly, you can sometimes get a big lead hammer or a small hand sledge and hit the rotating flange of the hub from behind enough to start it moving. This can damage both the flange and the bearing, so it isn't recommended for a good hub. Drench the joint between hub and knuckle with penetrating lubricant, diesel or kerosene. If you achieve even a little bit of movement, drench it more, and hammer it back in. If you do this a few times, you'll get it loose. Once you have a little crack, you can also sometimes get a chisel or other prying tool between knuckle and hub, and use that to lever it off. Try not to remove it too crooked. The straighter the better.

This spring I helped my son get a hub off his 96. The bolts sheared, because rust had built up in the holes, and we ended up having to cut the base of the hub apart with a torch. Still unable to drive the stub of one bolt out of the knuckle, I had to burn it out with an oxidizing torch flame until it was almost all gone. It's usually easier than that, though.

90xj06 · Sep 4, 2006

i have to do the same thing on my drivers side too.

jeepinairman · Sep 4, 2006

Matthew Currie said:
"You may need to tap on the hub assembly" is like saying "If you intend to spend a week on the Sahara it might be wise to bring along some water."

The hub assembly is, at best, a tight fit in the knuckle. When it rusts in, be prepared to have to yank, hammer, pry, and consume some time. If the rust isn't too bad, it is sometimes possible to loosen the bolts that hold it in from behind and then hammer on them to dislodge it, but if it is very rusty, do not hit too hard or you'll mash the bolts. It is also possible if you have an axle-pulling slide hammer, to use that, but make sure that you leave the axle nut installed at least finger-tight, or you'll pull the hub apart. Similarly, you can sometimes get a big lead hammer or a small hand sledge and hit the rotating flange of the hub from behind enough to start it moving. This can damage both the flange and the bearing, so it isn't recommended for a good hub. Drench the joint between hub and knuckle with penetrating lubricant, diesel or kerosene. If you achieve even a little bit of movement, drench it more, and hammer it back in. If you do this a few times, you'll get it loose. Once you have a little crack, you can also sometimes get a chisel or other prying tool between knuckle and hub, and use that to lever it off. Try not to remove it too crooked. The straighter the better.

This spring I helped my son get a hub off his 96. The bolts sheared, because rust had built up in the holes, and we ended up having to cut the base of the hub apart with a torch. Still unable to drive the stub of one bolt out of the knuckle, I had to burn it out with an oxidizing torch flame until it was almost all gone. It's usually easier than that, though.

thanks for the help

i am on my way to the garage to try the bolt trick........

i am just sick of beating on it......makes me wanna cut the whole damn thing off and replace everything......money be damned ...just to not have to deal with it

jeepinairman · Sep 4, 2006

alrighty

the "leaving the bolts in and tapping them"

worked like a charm....thanks for the help

i might be posting in a bit to cuss about not being able to get the u joint out..lol....

jeepinairman · Sep 4, 2006

alrighty

got the old u joint out and the new one in..thanks for the help matt

to anyone starting this lil "project" good luck gettin that dang hub loose..lol.

i used like 2 cans of PB.........lube lube lube is the key..

thanks again

Matthew Currie · Sep 5, 2006

You're lucky if hitting the bolts worked. I guess Kansas ain't in the rust belt.

cumorglas · Sep 5, 2006

jeepinairman said:
alrighty

got the old u joint out and the new one in..thanks for the help matt

to anyone starting this lil "project" good luck gettin that dang hub loose..lol.

i used like 2 cans of PB.........lube lube lube is the key..

thanks again

I'm glad that worked for you . I have done a bunch of these all rusted in place like that.
I don't know how i lived before i found pb blaster. it even makes torching things off easier. I actually use the bolt trick in combination with the slide hammer but i pull the stock bolts out and replace them with grade 5's from the tractor store(fortunately less that 2miles from my house), and then do the hammering. then when i reinstall them i can do it with unmolested stock bolts.

once (and i can't stress enough that i do not recommend this!!!!!) I used an extra long bolt, a wedged pry bar and the power steering/ram to pop a stubborn one loose. I bought the slide hammer right after that. new ones always get antisieze before they go in and it helps for the next time, but i have three of these and friends with them and somehow it's always me that gets this particular job.

jeepinairman · Sep 5, 2006

well...i did use a socket over my bolts to beat on them so they wouldnt get messed up but yeah i guess we arent really in the rust belt

thats crazy using the ps man.lol.....i will remember NOT to try that one......glad it worked for you though

stuck hub i think

jeepinairman

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Matthew Currie

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90xj06

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jeepinairman

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jeepinairman

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jeepinairman

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Matthew Currie

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