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upgrading u joints

dorkfish8765

NAXJA Forum User
Location
minnesota
well i have a 98 xj 4.0 4.5 of lift on 33s, ive been looking all over the internet but i cant find any info on a good u joint upgrade. ive found spicer life u joints are tough but cant seem to find anyone who sells them. my question is what do you guys us or recommend i really dont want to go down to checker and pick up something weak, looking for something that will last. any thoughts would be great.
:cheers:
 
Spicer 5-760x instead of the stock 5-297x. The local driveline and U-joint shop has almost all the Spicer catalog in stock.
 
Are you talking about axles or drivelines?

Either way, you can't do better than Spicer u-joints. I think NAPA carries Spicer, or any driveline shop, or online at plenty of drivetrain stores.

If you're talking about upgrading beyond that, you get into another whole discussion that includes axle or driveline changes.
 
Tim_MN said:
Spicer 5-760x instead of the stock 5-297x. The local driveline and U-joint shop has almost all the Spicer catalog in stock.

This is the upgrade for the stock d30 27 spline axles correct? I think mine are about to blow so I need an upgrade. Not trying to hijack.
 
Tim_MN said:
Spicer 5-760x instead of the stock 5-297x. The local driveline and U-joint shop has almost all the Spicer catalog in stock.
cool would you happen to have a name and number? and ya the stock d30 27 spline axles. forgot to mention that part
 
downhillracer said:
This is the upgrade for the stock d30 27 spline axles correct? .

All 1989-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints. All 1995 + have 5-297x u-joints. All others have the smaller 5-260x u-joints
 
so the spicer 5 760x's from rubicon d30's will be a good upgrade to the 297x's. I just looked them up on NAPA's website and they are only 25 bucks a piece. Not bad.
 
dorkfish8765 said:
cool would you happen to have a name and number? and ya the stock d30 27 spline axles. forgot to mention that part

You already have Spicer 297x axle joints. If you buy new Spicer replacement joints you will get the 760x joints, which are the same joint just the newer version. Not really an upgrade, just a very slightly better newer model. Call any NAPA or order them online.
 
dorkfish8765 said:
well i have a 98 xj 4.0 4.5 of lift on 33s, ive been looking all over the internet but i cant find any info on a good u joint upgrade. ive found spicer life u joints are tough but cant seem to find anyone who sells them. my question is what do you guys us or recommend i really dont want to go down to checker and pick up something weak, looking for something that will last. any thoughts would be great.
:cheers:

buy some new axle shafts that come with new u-joints
 
I have the smaller 260x's and I want to swap in the 270x's. Can I pull the axle shafts all the way out of the axle tubes to swap the joints or will I thrash my seals? Also.... will the 270's be a direct replacement for the 260's or will I need to mod the yokes?
 
downhillracer said:
I have the smaller 260x's and I want to swap in the 270x's. Can I pull the axle shafts all the way out of the axle tubes to swap the joints or will I thrash my seals? Also.... will the 270's be a direct replacement for the 260's or will I need to mod the yokes?

If you get teh 297/760 (Dana 44 size, for reference) you can't 'mod the yokes', you need new shafts.
 
downhillracer said:
so do I need the shafts out of a newer xj (96+)

95+ or an earlier XJ with a 242 transfer case. If you've got the two-piece long shaft (passenger side, assuming you do with the small joints), you'll need to get a seal and block-off kit for the vac disconnect to convert to the one-piece shaft.

If you haven't done a load of work to your front axle, you might just consider swapping it out to a newer one so you get rid of the vacuum disconnect housing.
 
Well I just put a lock-rite in the front a few weeks ago so I don't really want to swap the whole axle. If I get the block off kit for the vac-disco will the driving characteristics change?
 
downhillracer said:
Well I just put a lock-rite in the front a few weeks ago so I don't really want to swap the whole axle. If I get the block off kit for the vac-disco will the driving characteristics change?

Can't remember if that vac disconnect makes it so the front shaft doesn't turn all the time...but you'll just get some clunking from the lock-right as it does it's thing, ratcheting. You get used to that. Front lock-right will track on the straight lines anyway as the wheels turn the same direction, but again, something to get used to and certainly not dangerous.
 
ECKSJAY said:
Can't remember if that vac disconnect makes it so the front shaft doesn't turn all the time...but you'll just get some clunking from the lock-right as it does it's thing, ratcheting. You get used to that. Front lock-right will track on the straight lines anyway as the wheels turn the same direction, but again, something to get used to and certainly not dangerous.

I think the switching to a solid shaft would make it drive different. My reasoning is that having the outer shaft separated would allow the two front tires to turn at different speeds. When the solid shaft is in, the tires would be forced to turn at the same pace. Can somebody educate me if I am wrong.
 
downhillracer said:
I think the switching to a solid shaft would make it drive different. My reasoning is that having the outer shaft separated would allow the two front tires to turn at different speeds. When the solid shaft is in, the tires would be forced to turn at the same pace. Can somebody educate me if I am wrong.

a solid shaft will not affect anything, and its a stronger, better modification anyhow. the locker is not being engaged unless there is power going to it(ie. 4wd). so it acts just like an open diff when in 2wd, you just slightly hear it racheting from time to time which is normal and its what it should be doing in 2wd. go with the solid shaft, you will thank yourself later.
 
Get some Alloy USA axleshafts, they'll come with new Spicer joints installed, it'll eliminate the disco, and it'll give you more strength up front for the locker.

The block off plate isn't even really necessary, you can leave the vacuum shifter there, but you'll need a new seal at the differential.
 
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