Awkward lift prediciment (long)

Trying to make a long story short, I had purchased a 92' cherokee with a somewhat hacked lift. It had coils and poly spacers up front, aftermarket lower control arms and JKS discos. The rear was blocks, shackles connected to the factory shackles, and an add-a-leaf. So using your guys advice i measured from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender flare and had 24" all the way around. So i believed it had a 7" lift going from 17" to 24". Now the spacers in the front were 3" poly spares which led me to believe the coils were probably 3" or 3.5" coils hence the lower control arms and trac bar bracket, which were way out of wack due to the spacers adding an extra 3" of lift. Well my everyday driver was so tired it was tucking 215's so i thought it was a good reason to put this "3" lift" on my 94' cherokee. So i started at 17.5" up front and 15" in the rear meaning the rear was sagging 2 inches lower than stock. Everyone still with me? Well upon installing this "3" lift" i set the front end down on its 215's again and something was very wrong. I now read 23.5" thats 6" over stock!!! How does the other Jeep with the poly spacers and springs read 7" and mine on just the springs make 7"??? So now with the aftermarket control arms the springs are pulled towards the rear ever so slightly, enough that the factory adjustment will fix it and what boggles me more is the trac bar drop bracket actually keeps the axle centered But limits axle drop alot when it maxs out the joint. So i am very confused and kinda worried, i know have made an 8 leaf pack bastard pack and 2" blocks to get the rear to go from 15" to 23". So now i have huge issues. I cant afford a slip yoke eliminator and if i had know i was gonna net 6" over stock height i would have never installed the lift. I wanted only a 3" or 3.5" lift so i wouldnt have these problems. So my main question is how is this possible and how do i make it driveable with the yoke out so far on the t-case? I plan on installing a t-case drop but is 1" enough or should i shim the rear to adjust the pinion angle as well? Maybe even have the drive shaft lengthend? Very confused need as much help as possible. I will try to post picks but this connection wont allow me to download them so they will need to wait. The 6" lift for $25 doesnt bother me so much as the fact that i dont know what to do about the rear drive shaft to make it driveable. I thought about the hack-n-tap but what do i need for a drive shaft if i use that, can i just use a stock one?

it's a pre 96 so get the 96 and up yoke, or a YJ yoke as they're both a little longer, then drop the tcase 1"-1.5", I've even seen 2", but I don't think that's recommended.

If you only wanted 3" of lift why didn't you just use the 3" coil spacers in the front and make a bastard pack in the rear?

you gotta specify what you wanna do... youve got two options:
a> drop your front end 3", or
b> make your 6" lift work...

a- acquire 3" lift coils (isnt hard, maybe identify and trade yours for someone elses 3ers?) or cut your $25 coils,

b- get an sye installed... search around for hack n tap, i beleive people use a front oem DS, but im unexpereinced with syes, working at low lift and 2wd=. You WILL need other ammenities at 6".... ride WILL be rough on it.
You didnt say a word about shocks nor bumpstops, nor steering, are you ready for 6" of lift?
say it with me, blocks are bad mkay?

I know lift blocks are bad, i know, i know. Lets get passed that. I fixed the brake line problem there is plenty of slack at full droop front and rear. The t-case i am in the process of droping it or making an entirely new one all together with the drop built in. I am still wondering about a drive shaft for the hack-n-tap? A local place said he can put a cv joint on my existing drive shaft so it will keed the slip yoke but the angle will be better, not sure if its worth it or not? I could do it as well but i cant balance it and some things are better left to the experts.