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Brake Line Requirements for Lifted XJs?

R

RAVC1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
I'm in the process of lifting both my '89 & '97 XJ to 2"-3". I am looking for advice on lengthening the brake lines; including the e-brake lines in the rear.

My XJ rear axles are the D35 and the C8.25. Both feature a rear brake HOSE that is 12" long. I have checked with my local NAPA and they tell me a 1993 YJ rear brake HOSE is ~17.5" long. This will easily cover my low-lift application.

What have people used for the front brake hose?

I think I have read people use ZJ rear E-Brake cables as an inexpensive solution when lifting their XJ. Can anyone provide details or refute this? I am uncertain if I will need longer E-Brake lines with this small lift.

Thanks,

Rick
 
On my '98 the e-brake cables are plenty long for 6" of lift - I think yours should also be fine. In the front, you can use YJ stock lines that are 4" longer than XJ lines. I think Dakota lines also work well.
 
Great question, my XJ Brother...

Last week I installed the JKS adjustable system in the front and set it at 3.5 inches, and added 4 inch leaf springs from Rough Counrty in the back.....the leaf springs will settle to about 3.5, with some use.

I installed, and I am verry happy with:

1995 GMC 2 wd C1500 pick-up truck brake hoses for the front.

1996 Dodge Dakota rear brake hose.

These were both direct bolt on replacements, with some fine tuning, of coarse.

On the front brake lines you will need to drill out the mounting hole on the GMC bracket, the stock XJ mounting bolt is slightly larger, Then route the lines so they do not make any contact with things like tires and shocks. Next you need to attach the brake line to the caliper then to the stock mounting position on the XJ body. Follow that by giving the stock hard lines a little love (gentle wide bends) so that they mate up with your new GMC fittings. Side Note: depending on the brand of GMC brake hoses, you might need to spray them down with soapy water and slide the mounting braket up close to the fitting that attaches to the XJ hard line. ( you will know when you mock up ).

The Dakota line in the back, bolts right up with a little attention to detail. First, after removing the stock hose you will need to widen the stock opening in the mounting bracket, located on the body. I was able to use a screw driver and pry it open gently, just enough to get the Dakota line in and snap on the retaining clip. Second, you can attach the "T" end of the brake hose to the axle, using the stock bolt/vent tube. I suggest you loosely mount that first mounting bolt. Please note that the grove on the bottom of the "T" is at a 45 deg. angle, instead of the stock 90 deg. angle. It's your choice. You can grind a new 90 deg. grove and mount it close to stock, or you can leave at 45 deg's and give the stock hard lines a little love (again, gently bending them in gentle wide bends) to mate up with the Dakota fittings. I chose to leave the 45 and give a little love. I was unsure of how far I could grind into the block without compromising the brakes. Anyhow, after you get the hard line securely mounted, it's safe to go back and secure the axle mounting/vent tube bolt.

I'm running the stock e-brake cables, just fine.....

Now, bleed your brakes, check everything over to ensure proper braking and have a blast.....
 
How much slack did you have with these lines and your 3.5" lift? I am needing to do the same thing, but with 4-5" of lift.
Thanks
Michael
 
The YJ lines provided plenty of down travel, but the long metal line on the lower part of them actually caused them to seperate on my 3" lift. I use the C-1500 lines now. All you have to do is build a quick bracket for them and they work wonderful!

DSCN1589.jpg


DSCN1590.jpg
 
Guys,

Many thanks for the good advice. As a result of these reponses I decided to purchase the GMC 2wd C-1500 front brake hoses & the 1996 Dakota rear brake hose (Apparently, 2WD or 4WD does not matter for the Dakota; same rear brake hose.)

Rick
 
fwiw... for the front, just straighten the hard line. Worked fine for my 4" lift.
 
whatevah said:
fwiw... for the front, just straighten the hard line and relocate the bracket Worked fine for my 4" lift.
Click to expand...

i know it was implied.... but it helps.

fwiw x2 i plan on straigthening my hard lines....
 
relocate it? nah, just leave it loose. :-D yeah... either drill a new hole, or try to reach the other hole predrilled from the factory.

stock late-model YJ lines will work on 90+ XJs up to 4" lift. I think there was a fitting change around 89, so I dunno if it'll work on the older guys.
 
Aurora said:
How much slack did you have with these lines and your 3.5" lift? I am needing to do the same thing, but with 4-5" of lift.
Thanks
Michael
Click to expand...

I had a cople of inches to spare! You should be good. Let us know how you did.

Rock on......
 
i had custom stainless steel braided lines made for me, only 40 bucks a piece. if you can find a place in town to make them for you i would recomend doing that.
 
At 2-3" you can gain some extra slack up front with just straightened the hard line, and remounting it to the unibody fenderwell. Just be careful unkinking it, you can get a couple of inches out of it. Right now it has some bends in it, but the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.

Also, be sure it's in a spot that it wont interfere with your tires at full lock.
 
mikedashg said:
At 2-3" you can gain some extra slack up front with just straightened the hard line, and remounting it to the unibody fenderwell. Just be careful unkinking it, you can get a couple of inches out of it. Right now it has some bends in it, but the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.

Also, be sure it's in a spot that it wont interfere with your tires at full lock.
Click to expand...

oops, guess I should have read the rest of the thread, nm
:twak:
 
jeepcj/jeepxj said:
Great question, my XJ Brother...

Last week I installed the JKS adjustable system in the front and set it at 3.5 inches, and added 4 inch leaf springs from Rough Counrty in the back.....the leaf springs will settle to about 3.5, with some use.

I installed, and I am verry happy with:

1995 GMC 2 wd C1500 pick-up truck brake hoses for the front.

1996 Dodge Dakota rear brake hose.

These were both direct bolt on replacements, with some fine tuning, of coarse.

On the front brake lines you will need to drill out the mounting hole on the GMC bracket, the stock XJ mounting bolt is slightly larger, Then route the lines so they do not make any contact with things like tires and shocks. Next you need to attach the brake line to the caliper then to the stock mounting position on the XJ body. Follow that by giving the stock hard lines a little love (gentle wide bends) so that they mate up with your new GMC fittings. Side Note: depending on the brand of GMC brake hoses, you might need to spray them down with soapy water and slide the mounting braket up close to the fitting that attaches to the XJ hard line. ( you will know when you mock up ).

The Dakota line in the back, bolts right up with a little attention to detail. First, after removing the stock hose you will need to widen the stock opening in the mounting bracket, located on the body. I was able to use a screw driver and pry it open gently, just enough to get the Dakota line in and snap on the retaining clip. Second, you can attach the "T" end of the brake hose to the axle, using the stock bolt/vent tube. I suggest you loosely mount that first mounting bolt. Please note that the grove on the bottom of the "T" is at a 45 deg. angle, instead of the stock 90 deg. angle. It's your choice. You can grind a new 90 deg. grove and mount it close to stock, or you can leave at 45 deg's and give the stock hard lines a little love (again, gently bending them in gentle wide bends) to mate up with the Dakota fittings. I chose to leave the 45 and give a little love. I was unsure of how far I could grind into the block without compromising the brakes. Anyhow, after you get the hard line securely mounted, it's safe to go back and secure the axle mounting/vent tube bolt.

I'm running the stock e-brake cables, just fine.....

Now, bleed your brakes, check everything over to ensure proper braking and have a blast.....
Click to expand...

great info, but to clarify, the T is rotated in the horizontal plane, not the vertical correct? pictures say 1000 words...
 
I found the Dakota rear brake hose was fine for my 1989 w/D35 but it appears (i.e., meaning I have not replaced the factory rear brake hose yet...) the Dakota line cannot be used on my 1997 w/C8.25 because the vent line for the axle is built into the brake hose fitting that bolts to the axle tube. The vent is on the top of the fitting, each side contains the drum brake lines and the front of the fitting is the hose to the vehicle line.

Am I missing something here (...since I have not yet disassembled the rear brake lines or vent from the OE rear brake hose to inspect it directly.)? The Dakota rear brake hose does not have an integral vent line; only a "clearance hole" that I used for the bolt on my D35 (the 1989).

Are their alternatives to this line? The late model year YJ seems to have adequate length according to many but the hose separation issue makes me want to avoid this as a replacement.

Please advise.

Rick
 
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