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Rear driveshaft/axle output shaft help

hot_rod_hooligans

hot_rod_hooligans

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indianapolis
So we were wheelin' this weekend and while on the trail the rear driveshaft dropped, the u-joint caps on the output shaft side, walked their way out some how. So I went to the store and grabed another u-joint, while installing it I noticed this:
DSC01268.jpg

DSC01271.jpg

One of the cap retainers on the output shaft broke off.

Anyone know of a fix for this, aside from a new output shaft, ie straps with retainers on them? I'm trying to do this as cheep as possible, as this current set up only has to last me another 2 months of DD duty, then It's getting parked for a year while I'm in Kuwait, when I get back, it's getting a Solid Axle full float D44.

On a side note, I pulled the rerar shaft and drove it home (about 90 miles) in 4HI, should I change the t-case fluid and hope for the best or what?
 
go to your local u pull it yard and get a new yoke other wise u'll be replaceing a u-joint everyday u'll probabally need a big breaker bar and a big socket i have a 3/4 drive set that i use and i have yet to break it but i havebroken 1/2 drives on yokes there one there pretty tight so u might wanna bring a buddy

a yoke at my local yard is 8$ so it shouldn't be to costly for u
 
just install the shaft wth a new u joint and put a weld bead on the yoke...its not as strong but it might be able to last a couple months as a DD
 
MTBracer367 said:
go to your local u pull it yard and get a new yoke other wise u'll be replaceing a u-joint everyday u'll probabally need a big breaker bar and a big socket i have a 3/4 drive set that i use and i have yet to break it but i havebroken 1/2 drives on yokes there one there pretty tight so u might wanna bring a buddy

a yoke at my local yard is 8$ so it shouldn't be to costly for u
Click to expand...

How do I go about removing the yoke?
 
Maybe try cleaning the area and start making a similar piece out of JB weld. Put a dab and let it dry then keep going until you have a small mound that mimics the other side. Simple fix for a short run if you are getting the 44 soon. Good luck and sorry if this band-aid isn't up to your specs, its just a sugestion. :)
 
Otherwise you might be able to get a joint that uses inner c-clips instead.... wont be as strong, but itd probably last longer... unless you get a new yoke.... My 0.02

Austin
 
Six States or any other quality drivetrain company and buy a new yoke. By the time you pull one install it and find out it's out of tolerance too you could have just bought the new one and fixed it right the first time.
 
I did the same thing a while back. You WILL continue to eat u-joints untill you fix it. Lots of places sell yokes..I got one with a u-bolt upgrade from rustys (this was back when I was running the d35) for $40.

Keep in mind, once you remove the pinion nut you're messing with the crush sleeve and pinion setup. I didn't know this when I did it. I ended up not tourqing the nut to spec and the pinion began to grind when I test drove it. I tourqued the nut down to spec and all was fine after that.
 
hot_rod_hooligans said:
I've been thinking about that, but I don't know how to remove the yoke.
Click to expand...

Pretty simple really:
1. removed the u-joint straps
2. measure the rotational torque of the pinion with a in/lb torque wrench (preferably with a dial)
3. get an impact or 1/2" breaker bar and the appropriate socket
4. remove the nut holding the yoke on
5. take a hammer and tap the yoke off (if it doesn't just pull off)
6. install new yoke
7. install the nut and washer
8. tighten the hell out of it until you get 6-8in/lbs more than your first reading for an 8.25 or 5in/lbs for a d35
9. reinstall driveshaft

and your golden!
 
If you get one that is ubolt style it will be stronger, and the same yoke will fit your future 44 so you can keep it as a spare. Ask me how I know.
 
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