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Tcase drop

I used SuperStrut or (UniStrut) from the electrical dept. at Home Depot. Cost $15.
Then I cut off with air powered cut off tool to right length. Measures 1 5/8 inch drop on XJ. On 97 model you reattach using orginal screw and stud.
Then you use short bolts with washer for the bottom part.
Got rid of all vibes on RR 2in lift. Added Warn TC skid plate using same spacer and two of their 3/32s so the TC won't touch.

Will do a SYE and driveshaft later when the $$$ come in, to regain clearance.
 
I'd go the washer route and save the money for the real fix (SYE and new shaft).
 
The front is held on by studs on all of them. Take it out and put bolts in. Still end up a helluva lot cheaper than a $30 "kit".
 
AlohaBra said:
I used washers but on the 97 there is a stud on each side and did not drop enough to kill the vibe.
That's common to all years.

The bolts (and coincidentally, the studs) are M10x1.50 - just make sure they're long enough to go through the spacer you choose. http://yuccaman.com/jeep/tcase.html
 
1x2 rectangular tubing, 1/8 or 3/16 wall thickness. this lines up better with the lines of the unibody and the crossmember better than a 1x1 square tubing.

Use M10x 1.50 pitch bolts, 50mm long.

Heat the unibody with a torch and use vise grips to remove the studs.

This is exactly what I did and it looks just as good as a bought kit and way better than the puck style kit or a stack of washers
 
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