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Adjustable Trackbar Woes.

lancey3

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus Ohio
I just put my RE1600 on last night. After I finished I took it out for a test drive. All seemed well except the steering wheel was way off of center. How could this have happened? Should I just get an alignment?
 
Whenever you change the length of the trackbar, you need to adjust the drag link as well.
 
lancey3 said:
I just put my RE1600 on last night. After I finished I took it out for a test drive. All seemed well except the steering wheel was way off of center. How could this have happened? Should I just get an alignment?

Yes, a good alignment will cure the problem, Make sure the shop gets the wheel straight before you leave!
 
Should I just do it myself? NTB schiestered me. They sold me the one time 'unwarrentied alignment' for 79.99 instead of the year long 99.99 last year. I hate them.

How do I go about adjusting the drag link? Did you mean the tie rod?
 
If I would have meant the tierod, I'd have said tierod.

You need to adjust the draglink from the pitman arm to the right side knuckle. You've moved the axle under your XJ, but haven't changed the draglink length. The distance from the end of the pitman arm to the right side knuckle has stayed the same, but you've changed the distance from the end of the pitman arm to the balljoints.

There's no reason to pay somebody to center the steering wheel or adjust the toe (on the tierod.)
 
ChiXJeff said:
If I would have meant the tierod, I'd have said tierod.

You need to adjust the draglink from the pitman arm to the right side knuckle. You've moved the axle under your XJ, but haven't changed the draglink length. The distance from the end of the pitman arm to the right side knuckle has stayed the same, but you've changed the distance from the end of the pitman arm to the balljoints.

There's no reason to pay somebody to center the steering wheel or adjust the toe (on the tierod.)

Sorry I was reading Go-Jeeps article and he didn't say Drag link so it confused me. /bows in reverence :D
 
Is there a better article on it? Go-Jeeps pictures confuse me a bit.


EDIT: I wont have to adjust my toe correct? Just the length of the draglink.
 
all kosher thx. end thread.
 
I suggest you leave the steering unlocked while you adjust your drag link, it's a simple tip most people neglect. it simplifies an easy job. all backyard mechanics should know how to do a basic two way alignment on a straght axle 4x4. I'm not talking about with adjustable track bars & control arms, I'm referring to centering the wheel & setting the toe[not in that order] the specs are in Chiltons & Haynes books. I'd assume all you guys with the fsm probably already know this.
 
lol, just put mine in last night and my wheel is also off, I need to drive it like it is for a bit till the PB sets in on the drag link bolts :D
Right now my pass side front tire is toed in by like 7 degrees (I'll fix it as soon as I can get the bolts free (I know it's bad but I don't care about the current tires as they are temp till I cut my fenders)
 
Along with adjusting your draglink make sure your axle is acutally 100% centered underneath the jeep at ride height. The axle being off to one side will also cause your steering wheel to be off center.
 
sheeks175 said:
Along with adjusting your draglink make sure your axle is acutally 100% centered underneath the jeep at ride height. The axle being off to one side will also cause your steering wheel to be off center.
I just can't find a way to do so other than by eye, there really isn't anything obvious to measure too is there?
 
TunaSoda said:
I just can't find a way to do so other than by eye, there really isn't anything obvious to measure too is there?

Just put a tape measure from the inner fender well to the outside edge of the tire.... get the measurements the same by adjusting your track bar & then center the steering wheel with you draglink.
 
mattyj said:
Just put a tape measure from the inner fender well to the outside edge of the tire.... get the measurements the same by adjusting your track bar & then center the steering wheel with you draglink.
I tried that, the problem is the fender wall is about 8~9 inches away from the tire so a measurement there would be about as acurate as eying it :(

It is as close to center as I could get it right now, I just need to adjust the drag link to center the wheel.

I also noticed since I centered the axle I now have a limited turning radius when I turn all the way to the right, and my blinker when signaling left no longer shuts itself off! lol
 
TunaSoda said:
I tried that, the problem is the fender wall is about 8~9 inches away from the tire so a measurement there would be about as acurate as eying it :(

It is as close to center as I could get it right now, I just need to adjust the drag link to center the wheel.

I also noticed since I centered the axle I now have a limited turning radius when I turn all the way to the right, and my blinker when signaling left no longer shuts itself off! lol

Thats beacuse you didn't finish doing what Mattyj told you to do. CENTER THE pitam arm!! If you look under your jeep you should see with the wheels straight the pitman arm should be parallel with wheels (or perpendicular to the axle). You now have to adjust the drag link to center it (this is why you can turn more one way than the other). Basically loosen the clamps on the drag link, unlock your steering wheel and crank the sleeve until the wheel is center and the pitman arm is in the right position then lock the clamp back down. Understand? Need pics?
 
Last edited:
TunaSoda said:
I tried that, the problem is the fender wall is about 8~9 inches away from the tire so a measurement there would be about as acurate as eying it :(

It is as close to center as I could get it right now, I just need to adjust the drag link to center the wheel.

I also noticed since I centered the axle I now have a limited turning radius when I turn all the way to the right, and my blinker when signaling left no longer shuts itself off! lol
That means that your axle isn't centered.Use a 4' level or a plumb-bob off the flares!
 
The axle is pretty much centered as it stands, the pitman arm is perfectly perp off the axle already
 
All fixed now, what a PITA rust is

Next step/ replace Y setup with a 1-ton kit... :D
 
Thats beacuse you didn't finish doing what Mattyj told you to do. CENTER THE pitam arm!! If you look under your jeep you should see with the wheels straight the pitman arm should be parallel with wheels (or perpendicular to the axle). You now have to adjust the drag link to center it (this is why you can turn more one way than the other). Basically loosen the clamps on the drag link, unlock your steering wheel and crank the sleeve until the wheel is center and the pitman arm is in the right position then lock the clamp back down. Understand? Need pics?


Hey i just read this thread. My jeep has play in the tierod at the pitman arm. I just picked up a tierod for this to remove the play. When I got the jeep the guy had a made adjustable track bar on jeep (its still on atm). I was told that i needed a steering stabilizer, shocks (which i have now) and ball joints. I talked to a mech that worked for Jeep for 17 years. He said it is very rare for ball joints to fail on jeep. I had friend who is a mech look at them he said they dont look bad to him. I am therefore doing process of elimination for DW. I also am wondering if since the guy i got jeep had the adj trackbar he made on jeep if he adjusted the drag link correctly and if that might also be an issue i might have? I know he must have not disconnected the steering as my wheel is almost but not quite upside down and my turn signals stay on like the previous guy. When I go to replace that tierod on pitman I would like to know what the drag link and such looks like and if you have pics I would appreciate it as this is my first 4x4 toy :).

thanks
 
If I would have meant the tierod, I'd have said tierod.

You need to adjust the draglink from the pitman arm to the right side knuckle. You've moved the axle under your XJ, but haven't changed the draglink length. The distance from the end of the pitman arm to the right side knuckle has stayed the same, but you've changed the distance from the end of the pitman arm to the balljoints.

There's no reason to pay somebody to center the steering wheel or adjust the toe (on the tierod.)

No need to be a jack ass...
 
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