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harbor freight compressor install.

O

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
I've had a harbor freight compressor like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93186
Its been floating around under the rear seat for almost two years now and today I decided to hardmount it in the cargo area of the jeep.

I'll get pics of how I mounted it in a few but first I have a question about wiring it.

The compressor has a 30amp inline fuse from the factory so I assume that it pulls somewhere near that.With that being said I noticed awhile back that my two door power window equipped xj has the four door models rear passenger power window connector behind the trim.

How many amps do the power windows draw?Can you see where I'm going with this?
I'm thinking of using the power window hot wire to feed my compressor instead of running wire through the firewall and to the battery...just need to know if the circuit is up to the task.

Stay tuned for pics of how I mounted the compressor.....
 
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I went off the battery with some #8 wire.. Ran it under the pass carpet.. My rock lites run off the power seats.. thats worked so far..
 
Thanks for the quick reply,Scott.
I've already got the wiring ran to the drivers side door pillar right by the four door power window connector so it would be so conveniant if I could just hook up to that + wire for the power window(I have a two door)and ground the - wire(of the compressor)to the chassis near the compressor.
I know this will be a "keyed hot" connection just like power windows.....The question is will the rear drivers side power window circuit wiring be up to the task of supplying up to 30amps for up to 5min at a time with engine running???
 
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With something that yanks 30 amps I would seriously consider making its own line. If it were something more momentary I would say go for it, but since many of those compressors have a 100% duty cycle, it could get to frying things very quickly.

:)
 
X2, thats why i went to battery.. It is a load running it.. You can try, it is to much i will let you know.. The fuse for the windows is a relay style, it will open an close when need be if over loaded.. (I think )
 
outlander said:
The question is will the rear drivers side power window circuit wiring be up to the task of supplying up to 30amps for up to 5min at a time with engine running???
Click to expand...
NO
 
The power window wire is fused. Will only blow a fuse if it's not up to the task. I don't have power windows so, I don't know the fuse rating for them.
 
I have a Tsunami compressor in mine and used a line from the battery along with a relay and switch to operate. It pulls way to much for light wire and just a fuse
 
IGOCOMMANDO said:
The power window wire is fused. Will only blow a fuse if it's not up to the task. I don't have power windows so, I don't know the fuse rating for them.
Click to expand...

My FSM shows the power wires at the doors is a 16-gauge (12 guage at the fuse before it splits out). That's not adequate for a 30-amps for several minutes. You'll melt the wire. The voltage drop would probably be pretty hard on the compressor as well. Running 20 amps over a 16-gauge wire for 15 feet is a 1.3 volt drop.

I vote for a dedicated 10 gauge or better yet, 8 gauge wire from the battery.
 
I used 10 gauge from the battery to the relay and then 10 gauge from the Relay to the compressor.
 
so how is the knock-off viar compressor workin out for ya???? i mean how long to air up a tire???
 
Works great. Not extremely fast, maybe 10 min or soo to go from 15 to 35 PSI on a set of 4 tires. I just purchased an airtank, that should help
 
Ok,you guys talked some sense into me.I'll be running a dedicated wire to the batt.For now I still have the aligator clamps on the compressor.Whenever I want some air I hook up to my second battery(passenger side behind the seat)I'll have pics later today.I like the spot I put it in....It's very easy to get to and tucked in really well.
 
RCP Phx said:
NO
Click to expand...
I ran a dedicated #8 to the rear for my Quick Air 2, it was ok. I ended up going to #6. There was a definite performance improvement with the #6 wire.
 
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