gabe4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- upstate NY
I changed front Pads and brake lines I' bleed them lots of peddle but the front driver is staying on, what did I do wrong. I haven't taken it back off yet it's still hot. What should I be looking for?
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brakes are hung...why
- Thread starter gabe4
- Start date
89CherokeePioneer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Massachusetts
You lube up the sliders? Hurt the brake line in anyway? Like, crimping it closed or something. Nah, actually, you'd almost have to be doing that on purpose but..
gabe4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- upstate NY
I put some never sizze on the back of the pads, the lines seem fine I was able to get fluid out each bleeder valve89CherokeePioneer said:
89CherokeePioneer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Massachusetts
Okay, well good on the back of the pads. One thing-I've seen the flexible hose fail in such a way that it effectively creates a one-way valve. But start simple.
The caliper bolts (and the sliders, these metal sheathings almost which reside in the caliper holes) should be removed, if nessecary lightly sanded so they are smoothed and liberally coated with whatever silicone greese you choose-I use anti-sieze. This allows the caliper to slide away from the rotor.
Simply unbolting and rebolting the caliper back together is bad practice.
The caliper bolts (and the sliders, these metal sheathings almost which reside in the caliper holes) should be removed, if nessecary lightly sanded so they are smoothed and liberally coated with whatever silicone greese you choose-I use anti-sieze. This allows the caliper to slide away from the rotor.
Simply unbolting and rebolting the caliper back together is bad practice.
gabe4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- upstate NY
not sure I understand. Your saying in this case I should pull out the bolts, do you think I've tightened those bolts to much or that there is some debrie on them. Also another thing is The peddle is real hard the second I step on it the peddle is there no give89CherokeePioneer said:
Jeepm@n
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern, WI
Ok which side is hung up? ABS or non ABS? Is it he complete front or back? If it's one axle then it could be the proportioning valve. You said the pedal is hard. How hard is it ? My guess would be you have more then one thing going on with the brakes. How did the sliders or caliper brackets look? Any groove would mean time to replace them.
stewie
NAXJA Forum User
ive had a frozen caliper on most of the vehicles ive owned. the piston would close the pad on the rotor, but would not fully back off, causing the pads to stay pressed on the rotor, shortning pad life. a good sign of this would be uneven pad wear on each caliper (inner vs outer) and between the two calipers (ds vs ps). i have had excellent luck with NAPA brand calipers.
if your calipers are indeed frozen, they are not much harder to replace than pads. since you replaced the hoses, you could have replaced the calipers without adding any extra steps. with new calipers, apply anti seize to the caliper bolt shank (only to the smooth portion of the bolt, NOT to the threads!), and to the back of the pad. the antisieze on the bolt shank will help to make sure the caliper doesnt "hang up" on the bolts and on the back of the pads helps to make it easier to change pads when these ones wear out.
if you havent done a complete brake fluid replacement yet, or if your brake fluid is very dark, i would advise replacing the fluid. there is a number of ways this could be done. the easiest would be to remove most of the fluid from the resevor with a vac pump, replace the fluid with fresh and bleed until clear fluid comes out. you could also bleed the MC though the proportioning valve (same way as wheeles), but it may be too easy to get brake fluid on paint that way. i have completely replaced my brake fluid twice on my xj- once when i installed longer brake lines and again two weeks ago when i went to rear disk brakes and zj proportioning valve. the key is to keep bleeding until you get clear fluid coming out. the wheel furthest from the MC will take the longest to do so it may be an exercise of patience. a hose placed over the bleeder valve and run to a small bucket, can or soda bottle will help make things a lot less messy. DO NOT LET YOUR RESEVOR RUN OUT OF FLUID. add more before it runs dry!
DOT 3 brake fluid absorbs moisture. thats why i make a point of a complete fluid change. as it absorbs water, that weakens the fluid making it boil the water when it heats up, weakening your braking efficientcy. so avoid buying those big bottles of brake fluid unless you are going to be doing multiple vehicles brakes at the same time. even when i do complete fluid exchanges on my vehicles, i still buy a few of the small bottles, and responcibly discard any left over.
hth
stewie
if your calipers are indeed frozen, they are not much harder to replace than pads. since you replaced the hoses, you could have replaced the calipers without adding any extra steps. with new calipers, apply anti seize to the caliper bolt shank (only to the smooth portion of the bolt, NOT to the threads!), and to the back of the pad. the antisieze on the bolt shank will help to make sure the caliper doesnt "hang up" on the bolts and on the back of the pads helps to make it easier to change pads when these ones wear out.
if you havent done a complete brake fluid replacement yet, or if your brake fluid is very dark, i would advise replacing the fluid. there is a number of ways this could be done. the easiest would be to remove most of the fluid from the resevor with a vac pump, replace the fluid with fresh and bleed until clear fluid comes out. you could also bleed the MC though the proportioning valve (same way as wheeles), but it may be too easy to get brake fluid on paint that way. i have completely replaced my brake fluid twice on my xj- once when i installed longer brake lines and again two weeks ago when i went to rear disk brakes and zj proportioning valve. the key is to keep bleeding until you get clear fluid coming out. the wheel furthest from the MC will take the longest to do so it may be an exercise of patience. a hose placed over the bleeder valve and run to a small bucket, can or soda bottle will help make things a lot less messy. DO NOT LET YOUR RESEVOR RUN OUT OF FLUID. add more before it runs dry!
DOT 3 brake fluid absorbs moisture. thats why i make a point of a complete fluid change. as it absorbs water, that weakens the fluid making it boil the water when it heats up, weakening your braking efficientcy. so avoid buying those big bottles of brake fluid unless you are going to be doing multiple vehicles brakes at the same time. even when i do complete fluid exchanges on my vehicles, i still buy a few of the small bottles, and responcibly discard any left over.
hth
stewie
gabe4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- upstate NY
non ABS drivers front, Everything looked normal to me, I just replaced the pads and installed extended steel lines. The peddle is hard I thought this was because of the changes I made or because I hadn't bleed them in a while but the brakes didn't seem to grab real hard. Also not sure if this means anything but I noticed that the fluid is a little above the full line.
any debris get in the new lines by chance dirt mud or something causing a blockage there for getting a hard pedal...??
STROKER
STROKER
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
I'd start out by opening the bleeder a crack and forcing the pads all the way open, piston all the way in. Be careful, the first time you try the brakes (one hand on the parking brake handle), there may be nothing there, until the second try. This is just to exercise the piston a little. Recheck your fluid level at the reservoir. Brake fluid removes paint and sucks up water and promotes rust, just a tip.
Check the rubber dust seal around the caliper piston, if it's torn, water and junk can get in there and when the piston is moved in, to accommodate the new thicker pads, you hit a dirty and/or rusty spot on the piston and the piston hangs closed (doesn't release).
On non ABS, you can clamp the piston with a C clamp and force the piston in with the bleeder closed, this will push some fluid all the way back to the reservoir. This sometimes takes a bit of force, sometimes it's fairly easy. I haven't had much luck with this method with ABS.
It's likely the caliper is hanging on the rods, the pads are hanging on the rails, or the piston is sticky. I just welded up the notches worn in my rails by the pad backing plates (on my 96) The notches had square corners, which can't be good.
On rarer occasions, the brake line has separated, It's made in layers and the inner layers are not allowing the pressure to release. There is junk in the proportioning valve. The hard line is crushed. **The pads came from the manufacturer too thick and even with the piston all the way in you lack enough clearance (I've seen this twice in Chevy)**. If you've left the brake fluid can open and on the shelf for very long, the brake fluid sucKs up water like a sponge, if you use this fluid it will make steam as soon as it gets hot, expands, can keep your brakes from releasing, the rubbing causes more heat, which causes more steam, I think you get the idea.
Check the rubber dust seal around the caliper piston, if it's torn, water and junk can get in there and when the piston is moved in, to accommodate the new thicker pads, you hit a dirty and/or rusty spot on the piston and the piston hangs closed (doesn't release).
On non ABS, you can clamp the piston with a C clamp and force the piston in with the bleeder closed, this will push some fluid all the way back to the reservoir. This sometimes takes a bit of force, sometimes it's fairly easy. I haven't had much luck with this method with ABS.
It's likely the caliper is hanging on the rods, the pads are hanging on the rails, or the piston is sticky. I just welded up the notches worn in my rails by the pad backing plates (on my 96) The notches had square corners, which can't be good.
On rarer occasions, the brake line has separated, It's made in layers and the inner layers are not allowing the pressure to release. There is junk in the proportioning valve. The hard line is crushed. **The pads came from the manufacturer too thick and even with the piston all the way in you lack enough clearance (I've seen this twice in Chevy)**. If you've left the brake fluid can open and on the shelf for very long, the brake fluid sucKs up water like a sponge, if you use this fluid it will make steam as soon as it gets hot, expands, can keep your brakes from releasing, the rubbing causes more heat, which causes more steam, I think you get the idea.
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