dave92cherokee said:
I've known about the valve cover gasket, oil filter adapter, rear main, and oil pan problems but haven't until now heard anyone mention the front main seal. I've done some searching on here and through google but no results just everyone talking about rear main. If any of you know of a page that shows what's involved to change it out or know the part numbers I'd appreciate it alot.
Changing the front main?
1) Expose the harmonic damper (large steel pully down front) and remove the serpentine belt.
2) Remove the large screw in the centre of the HD and the washer. Set aside for reuse.
3) Remove the HD, using a specialised puller (it's basically a crow's foot that you can pass screws through.
Do not use a three-jaw puller - damn thing won't work, for starters. And, you need to grab the HD at the hub anyhow...)
4) Using a seal puller or a smallish screwdriver, you can prise the front main seal out of the timing cover.
5) Apply a light bead of RTV black to the outside shell of the new seal. Drive it into place with gentle hammer blows. I don't recall what size, but I've found that a common threaded pipe union will fit to the seal shell, and get a cap for it as well so you have a surface to strike with your hammer. Drive the seal to anywhere between "flush" and "bottomed out" - I'll usually stop at "flush" to make it easier to remove next time.
6) Make sure there are no burrs or gouges on the HD snout. Also, check to make sure there isn't a groove worn into the surface where the seal rides Correct or replace as necessary (also check that the "rubber" hasn't started to squirm out from between the hub and ring. If it has, replace the assembly.)
7) Lubricate the seal lip and the HD snout that it seals on - a good chassis grease will be enough here. Lubricate the crankshaft nose as well - a chassis grease is good, anti-seize will be better.
8) Set the HD in place on the crankshaft snout, lining up the keyway in the HD with the Woodruff key in the crank.
Gently tap once or twice with a mallet or wooden block to set it in place -
do not drive with a hammer!
9) Finger-thread the screw into the crankshaft nose. You may need a longer screw to start - the threads are 1/2"-20. You can then turn the screw to drive the HD back onto the crankshaft snout. When you bottom out using a longer screw, take the screw out and go with a shorter one.
10) The HD should stop about when the hub face is flush with the crankshaft nose - as you found it before you took it to bits. Dip the screw in engine oil, insert, and torque to 80 pound-feet (yes, the FSM sez to torque with lubricated threads.)
11) Reassemble everything else.
Some find it easier to have the radiator out of the way, but it can be done with the radiator in place. I know - I've done it with the radiator in place! Whether it comes out or not is entirely up to you.
