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Master Cylinder and Booster swap in a 92

9

92psychoxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Findlay, Ohio
I am planning on swapping a MC and booster into my 92 XJ. From my searching it sounds like I want the donor to be a 99-04 Grand Cherokee. My 92 is non-ABS, are all the WJs ABS or not? Does it matter?

2nd Brake Question: There is a "manifold" on top of the drivers side rear axle with 2 rubber brake lines attached to the side. There is also a rubber line coming out the top, where is it supposed to go?
 
nope ,doesn't matter, abs or not, mines out of a 02-03 grand, works like a charm! 33's and better than stock braking!
 
The rubber line coming out of the top of that box is the axle vent, it is supposed to plug into the frame rail.

However I'm going to replace the line and run it all of the way along side the frame rail and up to the firewall, to make sure no water gets in the axle when in deep water.
 
I used a 04' on my 93' no drilling or grinding just those damn lines. Make sure you put the right ones to the right ports in the prop valve. I did mine backwards the first time.
 
For what it's worth...I have a '92 XJ as well with no-ABS. I picked up a '96 XJ non-ABS booster/MC from a good donor vehicle and it was an actual "bolt in" job. The only custom work I had to do is bend some new brake lines from the new MC to the prop valve. (the original fixed lines didn't line up perfectly with the new MC so had to flare and bend some lines) The pedal rod was exactly the same as my 92 and the same length (There was a square spacer on the booster of the '96 that you must use.) I don't know about the 94-95 XJ years and their compatibility...but the '96 was exactly the same rod. Easy swap and has worked great for 4 years now.
 
Ghost said:
Isn't it 94 and up?
Click to expand...

That would be the 95 and up model year. The easiest is the 95 and 96 model year as it is a direct bolt in swap. Only lines to rebend. If the donor vehicle does have ABS it will not matter if you don't. If you have ABS and the donor vehicle does not I do not know if it will work. I'd suggest the proportioning valve from the donor vehicle also as it has slightly larger port on the rear side. It's a .0020 larger size compared to the one out of my 94. May not soundlike much but .0020 when it comes to hydraulics can make a difference in my opinion.
 
Jeepm@n said:
That would be the 95 and up model year. The easiest is the 95 and 96 model year as it is a direct bolt in swap. Only lines to rebend. If the donor vehicle does have ABS it will not matter if you don't. If you have ABS and the donor vehicle does not I do not know if it will work. I'd suggest the proportioning valve from the donor vehicle also as it has slightly larger port on the rear side. It's a .0020 larger size compared to the one out of my 94. May not soundlike much but .0020 when it comes to hydraulics can make a difference in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Correct. Its 95-96. The 97 and up is a totally diffrent rod legnth, master mounting angle, and will not work without "major" modification that will end you up with wondering why you didnt just find a 95-96. Proporioning vavle from the "donor" rig is your best bet since from drums to disks the rear is needing more fluid than before. Bending and reflairing the lines is pretty easy. I have done the swap from the benix 9 ABS to standard boosted brakes. 8 hrs total done with all "de-wireing" and such. Seems like a lot of time to some but mine looks like it was factory due to the time i took bending the lines in the correct orientation and removing all parts from the ABS system. This process isnt hard its just time consuming.

Also make sure you get all parts from the pedal all the way out including switches, spacers and the like to make sure your swap goes off without any major parts missing. Better to get too much than not enough parts.
 
the grand cherokee 95-99 works as well. you just have to redrill that rod, and put the flat spot, bend the lines.

33's better than stock braking, make sure you bleed everythign properly.
 
PornstaR said:
The 97 and up is a totally diffrent rod legnth, master mounting angle, and will not work without "major" modification that will end you up with wondering why you didnt just find a 95-96.
Click to expand...

Great

Now after I bought a 97+, someone finally says it wont work.

I asked in the big thread about this eleventybillion times and got nothing.
 
okjeeper said:
Will the 95-96 boosters and MC work in a 91 as well on a direct bolt on?
Click to expand...

Yes and no. Yes it will bolt right up giving you are using the 95-96 pedal and switch. No by meaning you will have to re bend some lines and re flair the correct fittings on the ends.
 
IslanderOffRoad said:
Great

Now after I bought a 97+, someone finally says it wont work.

I asked in the big thread about this eleventybillion times and got nothing.
Click to expand...

Never saw the thread and if i would have I would have told ya the same thing. Google searches and searches on here would have led you to the same concept. Im sorry you have purchased the wrong part.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm

searching for links on brakes on here (naxja) would have surely gave you this outside link to clarify why the 97+ would not "directly" bolt in. Pass it on in the other thread to help others out and clarify the topic
 
I have been reading all over the place, and have been working on trying to make sure I do this right. I have an 86 XJ. I put the Ford HP44 in front, with Chevy disc brake outers. I have the Chevy 14 bolt rear end w/ the camper edition 13" drum brakes (instead of 11"). No, cannot afford to do the disc brake conversion in the rear right now.

I am looking at getting a complete 2000 WJ abs master cylinder and booster, pump, lines, etc for really little money. My questions are

1) Am I correct in thinking that the ABS based system will work, just disconnect the pump and etc and hook up the lines to the stock XJ distribution block? I know about the drilling and shaping of the rod to fit the XJ brake light.

2) What about the discussion on whether ABS will fit stock XJ pedal or not? Didn't see the conclusion of that.

3) If I use this setup (the WJ), am I providing what would be needed for solid braking? Or should I consider another route? The stock booster is trashed, but I do have another one from an 89 I think laying around (but I really don't want to go back to single boost). Everything else is a purchase.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
I used a booster and master from a 95 xj when I did the upgrade in my 92. Other than making the two lines coming out of the master and enlarging the hole in the pedal rod everything was a direct fit. I got the parts from carquest.

Best upgrade I ever did on the xj. Night and day difference. I only run 30x9.50's but even with all new brakes and hydraulics, fresh fluid and stainless lines, my braking still sucked. This and a well adjusted drum fixed everything.
 
I put an '02WJ booster and Master Cyl in my 91. I used 6" adapter brake lines to go from single flare to double.

All I can say is - before I swapped boosters, the pedestrian would see my face against the windshield because I had to stand up to stop it with my 35s. Now the pedestrian will see my face in the windshield all flattened out. I stop better than I did with 215/70/15s now!
 
nateofmt1 said:
2) What about the discussion on whether ABS will fit stock XJ pedal or not? Didn't see the conclusion of that.
Click to expand...

This is something you just might have wait and see if it lines. I really don't think there's a definite answer. Recently, I installed a 95/96 booster & m/c into a '91 that had ABS and I had to re-drill the pedal about 1/2" down because the rod would not reach the original stud on the pedal. I could have forced it, but it would have been binding and I didn't feel comfortable driving it like that.

Others have said that it fits just fine..

It really was pretty easy to remove the pedal.


nateofmt1 said:
3) If I use this setup (the WJ), am I providing what would be needed for solid braking? Or should I consider another route? The stock booster is trashed, but I do have another one from an 89 I think laying around (but I really don't want to go back to single boost). Everything else is a purchase.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, the WJ setup will give you better or "solid" braking. I went with the 95/96 setup because it was cheaper than the WJ setup. I bought them brand new. I think you would be happy with the 95/96 setup also. Now, my '91 stops better than my '99 XJ after the upgrade.


Make sure you grab the lines off from the m/c to the prop valve that came with the donor vehicle. I could not find any adapters or fittings off the shelf. So, I ended up having to get used ones.

Also, get a tube bender. It'll make the whole process easier and go by faster. I picked up a tube bender from Harbor Freight for about $7.

E
 
So i am wanting to do this on my 94 non ABS XJ and pulled a Booster/MCyliner/PropValve of a 95 cherokee as suggested. I also got the spacer.

My questions is what is exactly needed at this point ? Do i need a brake line tool/Flarer. Do i use the old or new prop valve?

Thanks Pete
 
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