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some questions before i remove my t-case.

M

Mopar It

NAXJA Forum User
Location
windsor nor-cal
well i plan to install 2 new motor mounts, a tranny mount for my peugot, and a S.Y.E. which will be here in a few days. not sure if removing my t-case is required for the PORC s.y.e. which does use a new mainshaft.. and i was looking for any tips or snags that u guys know about that may make removing my t-case tough, cause all im ready for is driveshafts, linkage, then a few bolts correct?
 
you can install the sye with the case in the jeep.
 
Not tough at all, just make sure you keep as much crud and foreign material out of the case when you reassemble. Definately get yourself a small tube of assembly lube a huge help. And of coarse use lock tite when putting everything back together.. There is no need to rank on the bolts on reassembly. If you don't have a torque wrench then a standard 6" 3/8's ratchet and snug them down.. It's something like 25 and 35 ft/lbs respectively on the case half and speedo houseing..

Oh and check the oil pump when you have it apart. Double check the little rubber o-ring on the pick-up tube and the pick-up screen.. It's really not a complicated thing..

And if you have to trim your mode shaft it's better to take a little more than the 1/2" off it than try and get it exact.. You don't want to be taking it apart just to trim a c hair off it... ( I know from experiance ;) )
 
Put a jack under the trans. remove the crossmember. Lower trans. remove the nuts on top of the tc first then jack it back up and remove the bottom nuts. this way you don't pour all of the trans. fluid out.

I also used a standard 3/8" drive socket wrench, I just cut it down to about 5".
 
Installing the SYE with the case in the Jeep is a pain in the ass but doable! It is much easier with the case removed!!
 
I think its easier to do the SYE in the jeep than it is to remove the T-case lol. SYE in jeep is 1-1.5 hours with the correct tools.

Do yourself a huge favor and go by some LOCK(not snap)LOCK ring pliers.
 
I bent a 9/16's wrench to help get into the lower right side recessed nut location. Just take your time, don't be afraid to raise and lower the tranny/tcase with a floor jack to make the nut you are working on more accessable. drive shafts, 2 wires, 6 nuts, and linkage and it's out. Make sure you put a 2x4 between the floor jack and the tranny oil pan to distribute the load more.

And of course pay close attention ti the orientation of the peices as they come out of the split T-case.

on a scale of 1-10 pulling the T-case and gutting it is probably a 3 or a 4.
 
Mopar It said:
okay so i need lock ring pliers and what else to do this job in my driveway?
Click to expand...

my t-case had a single 12 sided nut on the top, all the others were 6 sided. didn't realize that until most stores were closed.... make sure you have a 12 sided socket (i believe it is 14mm, but not sure) some DS bolts are also 12 sided 8mm

don't forget to drop your front driveshaft early on to get the yoke nut off (28 or 29mm i think) it is much easier with the case together, vs when you have the back half off already. you can't get the chain off without being able to remove the front DS output shaft

if your jeep is already lifted, it makes it really easy to get under there.
 
The first time I did mine, I did it in my driveway with a friend of mine helping me. The case was in the Jeep, and it wasnt that big of a deal. I used a set of snap ring (not lock ring) pliers, and an impact gun as the only two "specialty" tools.

Second time I had the tcase out, with the same friend helping me. Took about half the time. It was easier to do with it out of the Jeep, thats for sure, but I had ulterior motives for removing it.
 
I replaced the NP242J chain without taking the case out. I'd never done it before. It took me 7 hours. The most difficult part was removing the F**King rings (clips). I had the two ring tools you were supposed to have.

The other thing was getting the case to split. I finally found the little lip where you put in the flat head screwdriver.

Personally, I wouldn't take it out to install the SYE. Also be sure and replace the rear transfer case seal. I didn't do mine and two weeks later I was under there again replacing it. Online you can get them for $13, OEM is $34 if they have one.
 
damn so now i need a rear transfer case seal? im gonna leave the case in there when i do my s.y.e just because i work alone on my jeep n it may be tough pulling it and if the sye can be installed with my t-case in the truck than thats fine
 
Mopar It said:
damn so now i need a rear transfer case seal? im gonna leave the case in there when i do my s.y.e just because i work alone on my jeep n it may be tough pulling it and if the sye can be installed with my t-case in the truck than thats fine
Click to expand...

I was instructed to chock the wheels, and put the transmission and transfer case in neutral so I could turn it.

Remember safety first.
 
ChrisRFewell said:
there was a rear transfercase seal??i just used RTV silicone...no leaks
Click to expand...

I used RTV to seal the case and the tail cone, however there is a round seal that goes around the output shaft. It keeps the oily stuff inside the tcase from leaking out the back and getting all over your back hatch.

I've only ever worked on a NP242, so your tcase may be different.
 
muckleroy said:
I used RTV to seal the case and the tail cone, however there is a round seal that goes around the output shaft. It keeps the oily stuff inside the tcase from leaking out the back and getting all over your back hatch.

I've only ever worked on a NP242, so your tcase may be different.
Click to expand...

o ok yes there is a seal around the output shaft on a 231 i was thinking between the 2 halves


only problem i had was the damn oil pump was hard to keep together
 
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