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Rocker Switches

GreenGhost

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Reno, NV.
I saw a post a couple of months ago that had a link to some very nice rockers switches. I've been searching 'til I can barely see, but I can't find that post (and foolishly didn't bookmark the site the first time around). The switches look like the ones that come with the ARB lockers, but I believe they're sealed as well. They have a whole bunch of labels for just about anything you can think of to switch and are backlit.
Anybody remember these and have a link?
My screen weary eyes thank you.
 
http://www.4x4mods.com/

switch5.jpg
 
The switches you are after are called Contura Style. The only site I know that prints them with labels is here: http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/Rockerswitches/rockerswitch40.html

However, they have been know for cheap construction, so beware. There are other places that sell them without the labels.

I know these arn't the same ones your talking about. However I used these for my rigs and they work great. Much better than those for almost $10 a piece.

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=788904&page=1
7600030_tab.jpg
 
I got a set of those colored guages from them a couple years ago. While I know it's not a switch I haven't had a quality issues with them.
 
Schweet.
FitchVA,
Is that in the same rig you did the switch/relay box right up on last year? I stumbled onto and read through that in my searching last night. Very nice set up. If it is, it looks like you're already sweetening it up. Did you find the new switch box at Waytek as well? The individual switch housings fit together really well. It's hard to tell in the pics that they're not one unit with seven openings. After reading your write up I was thinking of setting up a similar switch box for future electrical additions (I'm up to my eyeballs in lifting the Jeep and hooking up the air compressor for the ARBs right now, but a fella can dream). I think it would be cool to stretch the shape of the box on the passenger's side a little, so that the switch panel faces more toward the driver (the front staying more or less parallel to the windshield). That would make a small wedge shape on the bottom of the box to mount a map light and switch in.
Thanks for the ideas!
 
yeah, that's based off of that. for the most part, it is the same setup. just tweaked a bit. the box still starts out as the plastic hobby box from radio shack.

the trim pieces around the switchs are made to work with and only with the carling switches. i get them from the same place as the switches. it makes it so all you have to do is cut one large rectangle for all of them instead of one hole for each switch. and the all lock together and really clean up the look.

if you look at the 2nd pic, you can see the slits in the mounting wings. those allow you to kinda clock the panel towards the driver's side a little bit. you ca'nt clock it 45 degs, but you can turn it a bit.

when you start making yours, hit me up with any and all questions!

steve
 
Thought I would provide a bit more info on these switches:

They are made by Carling. The switches used by ARB are the incandescent version. Carling also offers LED versions with differing color LED colors for on/off, etc.

The part number for the ARB (incandescent) switch is ‘V1DAJ66B-00000-000’, this is the switch only, not including the actuator (I.E. switch cover). I ‘think’ the actuators ARB used are Contura II’s.

Most Contura actuators are interchangeable on the V-series switches. By this I mean any Contura II, III, IV and V actuator can be used on a V-series switch. I don’t believe this applies to the X and XI, as they are different switch. To date I’ve never been able to find the Contura ‘laser etched’ actuators. Hopefully some day.

I won’t go into figuring out the circuits or building part numbers as (for me) that was challenge. I’m sure tons of other folks can do a much better job of explaining that.

I know of two sources for small quantity purchases of Carling Contura switches and actuators. As already mentioned waytekwire.com seems to be the most common. When I checked waytek a few years ago, they didn’t offer the LED versions of the V-series switches (which I wanted). They also didn’t offer a wide assortment of actuators. Again, this was a few years ago, I’m guessing things have changed since then.

I stumbled upon a guy in Alaska named Shawn. He offered a fairly wide assortment of the Contura V-series switches (incandescent / LED) and actuators. I picked up everything though him.

Hope this helps,
Kent :)
 
Thanks again for all the information everyone!
Steve, I'll take you up on the question fielding when the time comes. Thanks!
Kent, thanks for the info!

Anyone, I'm laying the ground work for all these electrical projects now. The plan is to have two main power distribution points: one in the engine bay on/near the front clip for bumper mounted lights/accesories, and one inside the firewall. I'm going to run a 4AWG cable into the cab for the second one. What would you say is the maximum amperage I would be able to safely draw through that 4AWG wire before I should start thinking about another power line into the cab? I'll have the Viair compressor, and a wide array of lights eventually needing power aft of the firewall, and I've currently got the 4AWG line fused at 80Amps (or rather will after this weekend). Is that about max? The total amp draw for all the goodies I'm thinking about will probably be just a bit over that. Anybody point me at some info on recommended amperage for a given wire size/run?
Thanks,

Ty
 
There's an "ampacity" chart for various wire gages and lengths of run in the Tech section on my website - and let me know if you need custom-made 1AWG and/or 4AWG leads, because I do those as well.

Once I get far enough ahead, I also plan to "expand my line" - I don't mind ordering minimum quantities to pass along "onesy-twosy" deals to everyone else, so I'm always looking for ideas. The switches might be a bit much, but I know some people use the "Aero" toggle covers (for instance,) and I'm getting a lot of requests for distro posts, so I'll probably start carrying those as well. If you've got any ideas for something you'd like to get that you end up having to order a dozen of to get one or two, let me know... The catalogues I have may surprise you...

I seem to want to recall that the max current for 4AWG in runs 25 feet and shorter is about 125A, but I'm not sure. You can verify that on my site, tho - I spend a lot of time trying to verify things to post so I don't have to remember them...

5-90
 
Thanks 5-90,
I found a chart on the web that listed 135 Amps, and I imagine there's a little wiggle room for different stranded 4 gauge wire.
I have a set of IPF 55W lights, and I noticed that the fuse that came with the wiring kit is 25Amp. Is there a rule of thumb for choosing fuses? With two 55 Watt lamps, divided by the voltage (12.5), that should be about 9 Amps. Is there a multiplier, or buffer to use when figuring out what amperage fuse to use?
I've been planning on giving you a ring once the dust settles from the lift (Labor Day Weekend) for some cables. I'll talk to you then about any other custom cables I might still need.
Thanks again!
 
Fuses are available in "intermittent" ratings, so I'd just figure the current draw involved, go to the next fuse UP, and use that. I've been doing it that way for 20-25 years, and haven't had any trouble yet...

Remeber, size your fuse according to LOAD, not to WIRE AMPACITY. Sucks to blow out a load, when it's something important...

5-90
 
Does anyone have another listing for the ARB style switches, cause waytekwire wants me to buy at least 8 switches and actuators when I order
 
just gonna buy local, waytek doesnt carry what I want for poles and throws, and lighting, my local place carrys everything but the lighting so Ill suck it up, get what I want minus dash illumination light and be happy
 
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