I'm waterproofing my XJ in hopes of getting a snorkel, so is there anything I'm missing? I packed RTV around all of the weatherpac connections in the engine bay and the fuse block, and installed extended breather lines from both of my axles, and my distributor. Anything major I'm forgetting? I'd rather not pull into a stream crossing and find that out the hard way.
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Waterproofing my engine bay checklist
- Thread starter XJ98Jeep
- Start date
RedKirill
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NewYork/Moscow
IMHO, first, you have to protect the area under the engine. Piece of rubber, plustic, whatever, but it has to be there to protect from splashes. Breather lines work much better if you put them into the snorkel, all of them, not only the axles. Before crossing use a lot of silicon spray on distributor, plugs etc. Will be useful to run extra breather line from distributor into the snorkel and seal the distributor itself. Dont worry about fuses and PCM - nothing will happened.
Just two more things: it did help me to carry spare distributor, pluga and wires. If you dont have snorkel you can block airintake for the short period of time with whatever you have, even tshort works.
Just two more things: it did help me to carry spare distributor, pluga and wires. If you dont have snorkel you can block airintake for the short period of time with whatever you have, even tshort works.
Ba-Riedo
has frame envy
- Location
- redmond/bellingham, wa
XJ98Jeep said:
Grab a stock oem front skid, this will help keep water from coming up from the bottem of the engine. The problem is that the alternator sits low and when you travel through water it will often times be under unless you have something there to deflect the water.
-Alex
whitneyj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mayville, WI
I grabbed some sheet metal and in an afternoon had made a little "splash pan" if you will. Just went from rail to rail, cut around the pitman arm and bent it up to fit under the oilpan and just ran some self tappers into the rails. Made a huge difference with the splash up
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
Some of the connectors are more important than others, I use a clear plastic bag (both ends open) a wad of plumbers puddly around the ends and twist ties (or cable ties) on mine. It really is a toss up whether the sealing is going to be a hundred percent or not, your likely to want to get back into the connectors periodically to deal with oxidation or moisture.
Deflecting the mud or muddy water away from the motor is a good idea. Clean water really doesn't conduct well, the dirtier it is the better it conducts. Built up mud holds moisture and can accelerate oxidation. Muddy water in the alternator can build up a coating on the slip rings, between the brushes and slip rings causing failure. Same for the starter.
Running a vent from the distributor to the snorkel may not be a good idea, as the vent will cause negative pressure inside the distributor, which may suck moisture. careful use of RTV can get a pretty good seal on the distributor, but remember you'll 'eventually want to get back in there again. Using as little RTV as possible can make cleanup easier.
Mud gets in the radiator, dries quickly and will effectually cause some blockage. After it dries it gets harder to wash out.
The mechanical fan bogs your motor down when you get in deep enough, if it picks up mud it will really trash your motor bay and can damage the radiator.
Much of it is trial and error, I#ve developed a system over the years to check the likely trouble spots and periodically deoxidize and dry out the connectors.
Electrical line leak can also cause problems, 12-14 volts will leak to ground somewhat, if it leaks down enough to cuat more than a 4-5 volt loss, ignition and other sub systems can become weak.
If you have a stick you'll have to figure out a way to clean the clutch. It#s doubtful the water will be totally clean, the layers of dried mud build up and cause slippage.
A carry an extra alternator and *starter*, you almost have to clean them out after every diving expedition.
The longer it's underwater the likelier you are to have seepage, and from experience complete sealing is almost impossible.
I try to set up my XJ to be as maintainance friendly as possible, just in case a seal leaks someplace.
Deflecting the mud or muddy water away from the motor is a good idea. Clean water really doesn't conduct well, the dirtier it is the better it conducts. Built up mud holds moisture and can accelerate oxidation. Muddy water in the alternator can build up a coating on the slip rings, between the brushes and slip rings causing failure. Same for the starter.
Running a vent from the distributor to the snorkel may not be a good idea, as the vent will cause negative pressure inside the distributor, which may suck moisture. careful use of RTV can get a pretty good seal on the distributor, but remember you'll 'eventually want to get back in there again. Using as little RTV as possible can make cleanup easier.
Mud gets in the radiator, dries quickly and will effectually cause some blockage. After it dries it gets harder to wash out.
The mechanical fan bogs your motor down when you get in deep enough, if it picks up mud it will really trash your motor bay and can damage the radiator.
Much of it is trial and error, I#ve developed a system over the years to check the likely trouble spots and periodically deoxidize and dry out the connectors.
Electrical line leak can also cause problems, 12-14 volts will leak to ground somewhat, if it leaks down enough to cuat more than a 4-5 volt loss, ignition and other sub systems can become weak.
If you have a stick you'll have to figure out a way to clean the clutch. It#s doubtful the water will be totally clean, the layers of dried mud build up and cause slippage.
A carry an extra alternator and *starter*, you almost have to clean them out after every diving expedition.
The longer it's underwater the likelier you are to have seepage, and from experience complete sealing is almost impossible.
I try to set up my XJ to be as maintainance friendly as possible, just in case a seal leaks someplace.
If you are using a snorkel, you will get the alternator underwater. A splash deflector is nice for 98% of the stuff thrown at it, but when you're headlight deep, everything up to that level will be under.
If you have retrofitted capsule headlights, like Hellas or IPF, plan on removing and draining them if you're under awhile. Spare bulbs will probably be necessary to replace the old ones when they burn out from contamination. Remember, if you can't even touch them installing, what will a stream full of algae and mud do?
A complete oil change for the engine, at least one axle, transmission, and transfer case is usually required if under for more than an hour, due to seal leakage.
I'm reminded that the HMMV isn't water crossing rated unless equipped with all the gear. Even the original Jeep routed the exhaust into the crankcase to overpressure the engine and protect it. It still took a snorkel, waterproof wiring harness with special plugs, and a lot of petroleum jelly to get it ready.
Having said that, I have launched a VW thing hood high into the Buffalo in Arkansas without prep. Youth and enthusiam and all that.
If you have retrofitted capsule headlights, like Hellas or IPF, plan on removing and draining them if you're under awhile. Spare bulbs will probably be necessary to replace the old ones when they burn out from contamination. Remember, if you can't even touch them installing, what will a stream full of algae and mud do?
A complete oil change for the engine, at least one axle, transmission, and transfer case is usually required if under for more than an hour, due to seal leakage.
I'm reminded that the HMMV isn't water crossing rated unless equipped with all the gear. Even the original Jeep routed the exhaust into the crankcase to overpressure the engine and protect it. It still took a snorkel, waterproof wiring harness with special plugs, and a lot of petroleum jelly to get it ready.
Having said that, I have launched a VW thing hood high into the Buffalo in Arkansas without prep. Youth and enthusiam and all that.
