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Rubicon Hack and Tap poll

jeepbme

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Charlotte NC
Probably want get any responses, but ill give it a try.

Im getting pretty good vibes at 65 and above with the stock slip yoke hooked to a Dana 44 and np231 on a 97. I already have a Rusty's transfer case 1" drop shield ,but the vibes are still pretty tough with a 3.5" lift.
What's your experience good or bad with a R.E. Hack and tap?
 
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I've been running mine for nearly five years no problems. Running pretty hard on 35's. Most of my friends are running it with 33-37's and have never seen one fail.
 
im thinking of the front drive shaft conversion. What did you go with for the shaft?

I know alot people go with the HD slip yoke elim but i think i can get away with this for the amount of lift and this allows me to keep the case closed and sealed.
 
I like the H&T, but for the front shaft conversion, by the time you get the other flange to bolt to the H&T to be able to do the front shaft conversion, you might as well spend the extra $30 and get the HD SYE, then the front shaft bolts right up.
 
i hear ya...sealed is the key word here. i dont feel like wrestling down the case or trying to still installed.

thinkin roughly 90 for the hack
20 for the shaft
65-85 for the assembly from napa
 
The other flange you need is about $70. I'll have to search for the part number when I get the time, or you can search for it. It is 212299 or something like that, and then the NAPA part number is different, but I know that is out there somewhere.
 
so let get this straight you can buy a SYE and then buy a flange and be able to use a front XJ drive shaft front and back

is this right?

please can someone fill me in

sam
 
After recently doing 2 HD sye installs I would never go with the H&T mod. Sure its cheaper but I feel ALOT better about cracking open the t-case than I do cutting the output shaft and tapping it. Its easy, you can leave the t-case in as well, in fact its easier to do the SYE than it is to get to the bolts to take the t-case out.

Things to have

Die Grinder with wire wheel to clean the surfaces, or just a good gasket scraper
2 or 3 cans of brake clean to clean things out with
Beer

I just put the rear high on jackstands so I could sit underneath the jeep, made things nice and easy. My .02
 
Ive had a H&T in my YJ for years and am happy with it. When I lift the XJ, Ive got another H&T for it as well. The one for my XJ was given to me though, so that was a no brainer.
I figure a H&T is fine for most applications. Its at least as strong as the factory setup, probably stronger because the shaft is shorter.
I couple years ago I busted the main shaft in my YJ. The H&t survived and I reused it in my new t-case. That proved to me that the weak point of the factory shaft is the shaft itself (specifically at the speedo gear) and not the H&T.
 
jerics4life said:
thanks for all the help jeepbme one more thing i was reading http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showp...46&postcount=2 and it said something about 95 and older needs a full kit and it only works for the 8.25 axleis this true?

thanks sam



others can probably tell you better then I can, but i dont see why it wouldnt work with a dana44 setup also. Alot of people were confused about being able to use the stock 8.25 driveshaft with a dana44 in the rear lengthwise but i had absolutely no problems with length or other. So the length here shouldnt play a problem.

Just do a sye search with front driveshaft keywords on here and im sure you can find out alot more.
 
I've run 2 of them on my old YJ's ... one for 5 years on 33's no problem and one for 3 years on 35's no problem except for a leak because I nicked the rear seal. Replaced the seal, good as new!
 
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