Ford 8.8 Build Thread

So I've been pondering the idea for a while, and today I finally bit the bullet. I've been riding on the stock 3.55's for almost a year on 33's and it's become too much to bear. I had the option of regearing my Chrysler 8.25, which there is nothing wrong with, but money is a little tight. I thought about checking junkyards for an 8.25 out of a 4cyl so it would have 4.10's cheap and easy. I'd just add a limited slip and disc brakes later on down the road. I've toyed around with the 8.8 idea for a while as well, and I've been up and down on it. Well today at the local you pull it junkyard, I found an 8.8 with 4.10s, rear discs, and I believe it has a Traclock as well. The diff cover was missing, as was the passenger side e-brake assembly and rotor. The diff cover had recently been removed because everything inside was still wet, and the brakes weren't a big issue as I planned on replacing them with new equipment anyways. It had 410 stamped on the ring gear, and it looked to me like it had a limited slip in it, also when I turn one hub, the other side turns in the same direction. If someone can confirm this that would be great. I got the companion flange with it, and I pulled off a cap on my spare front DS and it seemed to fit, so I'm thinking it will accept a 1310 u-joint. Let me say, it was a royal pain in the ass to get this out at the junkyard. This was the only vehicle in the lot that still had the rear driveshaft connected. I could not get the 12mm 12pt bolts for the companion flange loose so I decided to knock the u-joint out. It took over a half hour of constantly beating on the driveshaft with a hammer to finally get the caps off. I didn't have a c-clamp or u-joint press with me but it would have save a TON of time. My plans are to clean everything inside and out, weld on all the bracketry, replace the seals, and give it a pretty paint job. I'm going to update this thread with pictures of the build process, along with prices of everything. I got another stock cover just to get everything going until I can get one from ruffstuffspecialties. I'll try to be as detailed as possible so that it can help others out in the future. There is also a hole in the top of the housing that it looks like something bolted too, but nothing is there. Any ideas on this?

Random hole.


410 and Ford markings on ring gear.



Any confirmation if this is a Traclock. I'm thinking yes.






Total so far:

Junkyard 8.8 with 4.10s Traklock, rear discs: $68 and some sweat equity.

That hole looks like a fill plug. Had one in my ranger. That is a traclok, basically fords posi. And you do know that does have abs right? There is a rone ring in the diff. Otherwise good find.

lsd, hole is for the abs pickup sensor, be sure to use the recommended lube and lsd friction modifier.

bcmaxx said:

lsd, hole is for the abs pickup sensor, be sure to use the recommended lube and lsd friction modifier.

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After I looked a little closer that's what I figured. I noticed that plate on the backside of the ring gear lined up with the hole. Being an ABS rear axle shouldn't make a difference should it? I'm probably going to replace all if the hardline anyways to route it how I want it. Any friction modifier should work shouldn't it? I'll just pick some up when I get the gear oil for it.

nope just plug the hole, mine still has the sensor ,just not plugged in. quite a bit beefier than the old 35! Have someone weld the axle tubes,prone to spinning on the trail with some severe duty wheeling. I have an 8.8 in my b2200 with a 350 chev, It has handled eveything I've thrown at it.

So the clip in the center allows for it to be a LDS other wie to me it looks like a open diff, but I dont know much about ford axles, or are there other parts that I am not seeing that allow for it to work. Also what dose the teeth on the flange behind the ring gear do, I have never seen that?

This makes me want to pull the diff cover off of my turbochickens 8.8 to see whats in it.

clutch pack are on the outer side of the spiders,little teeth is the tone ring for the abs

Yeah I planned on taking it to get the axle tubes welded. I'd do it myself, but all I've got is a cheap MIG. I know it's mild steel tubes and a cast steel housing, so I could probably do it and be fine. I'll most likely just pay someone $10 or so to do it for me. If I were going to do it myself, what would be some good tips? I'd imagine heat the housing up with a torch, run a small bead...maybe an inch or so, let it cool, then repeat.

Thanks bcmaxx now I really want to tear off that diff cover to see if I have the same set up.

Dave41079 said:

Yeah I planned on taking it to get the axle tubes welded. I'd do it myself, but all I've got is a cheap MIG. I know it's mild steel tubes and a cast steel housing, so I could probably do it and be fine. I'll most likely just pay someone $10 or so to do it for me. If I were going to do it myself, what would be some good tips? I'd imagine heat the housing up with a torch, run a small bead...maybe an inch or so, let it cool, then repeat.

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That's pretty much what we did. You will need more nickle rods than you might think (and they are a bit pricey).

When welding the axle tubes leave the gear oil in the dif. It will help dissipate the heat from welding. Change the oil when finished.......da.

Will I be ok welding bolts to the tubes for shock mounts, or should I look for an actual shock mount?

You will need 2new spring perches anyways, buy an extra one and two chevy truck shock studs and I'll show you how to make some that are strong enough for the trail and you won't need to worry about them

Dave41079 said:

Will I be ok welding bolts to the tubes for shock mounts, or should I look for an actual shock mount?

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where on the axle? Im not sure that would be strong enough. I also think you would want your shock mount to hang down a bit below thw axle. I run my shock mounts on the bottom of the axle tube and with 6" of lift 33s and stock flares I bottom my shocks before I rub... Not the best way for me atleast

slcpunk74 said:

where on the axle? Im not sure that would be strong enough. I also think you would want your shock mount to hang down a bit below thw axle. I run my shock mounts on the bottom of the axle tube and with 6" of lift 33s and stock flares I bottom my shocks before I rub... Not the best way for me atleast

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proper length shocks will fix that problem or some bump stops! I would look at the UBE kits, they seem pretty decent and come with new shock mounts to be welded on. I would keep the new mounts above the bottom of the tube, if you look at how far down your factory ones hang they will act as rock catchers! Keep them as high as possible and get the proper length shock would be my suggestion!

Keep the pics and info comming, I'm considering doing this myself!

I want to move the shocks up above the bottom of the tube definitely, and maybe a bit more outboard just to get a better angle on them. I looked at the u-bolt eliminator kits, the MORE kit, the ruffstuff kit...all of them are very high quality. I'm trying to do this on a tight budget. I've found sources for most of the parts I'll need. I am going to be taking another trip to the junkyard as soon as I get a day off that isn't raining. I'll be grabbing a few brake parts as I have some ideas for that which will save me a good bit of money. I'll be posting results and pictures as things progress. My time frame is looking like around a month or so for completion and being in the Jeep.

Last week my 8.8 got a set of these. We did not install the bottom plate and we welded a nut to the back side of the inside plate, much easier than fumbling with a loose nut back there. I'll get some pictures soon.

~Alex

mecompco said:

That's pretty much what we did. You will need more nickle rods than you might think (and they are a bit pricey).

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you do NOT need nickle rod to weld on the 8.8. you would IF you were welding to CAST IRON, but your not. your welding to CAST STEEL. there is a difference.

cast iron is a very finicky metal to weld on. it is also way to fragile to use in an automotive situation like diff housings.

the diff, as stated above, is made of cast steel. by that, i mean that it is formed in a "mold" (cast) instead of being forged, or milled. the chemical properties of it are the same regarless of if its forge, milled, or cast. however, the way the metal acts when welded changes slightly.

i prefer to use SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding- stick) because i can use a rod with a thicker and faster freezing flux. when you weld on the end of a cast steel piece, it is going to want to drip and run on you. thats why i use a thicker, faster freezing rod is to try to contain that, which helps to maintain the integrety of your weld by preventing porosity. keep your weld puddle small, and keep your speed apropriet for your metal. dont be afraid to have to two pass it.

if you were weding cast on to a piece of plate, i would say 7024 (jet rod) would be good as it has a very thick flux and penetrates very well, but is not a fast freezing flux. however, since this is not an ideal world, you have to compremise a little. i have had good luck with 7018 (low hydrogen) when welding a new track bar mount onto a vac disco D30 (on the cast disco housing). the 7018 is a thicker faster freezing flux, but you still have to pay extra attention to your weld pool.

if you have a piece of scrap cast steel (like an old brake drum or similar) try running a few practice beads in the flat, horizontal and vertical possitions to familiarize yourself with how cast acts when welded. i made a small height adjustable welding tray using a brake drum off an 18 wheeler as my base. it took a little while to get the hang of cast, but it turned out great.

hth,
stewie

Update:

Went junkyard shopping today and a couple other places and I've got just about everything I need for this. I got the yoke adapter for a 1310 u-joint and bolts off of a Grand Marquis, some miscellaneous brakeline fittings, and a passenger side brake line. I ordered some u-bolts from O'Reilly's, going to modify some 8.25 spring plates, and spring perches from these guys http://emsoffroad.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=115 I'm going to make some shock mounts using the 8.8 sway bar mounts and some bolts and nuts and welding. I've pretty much got it all laid out. I'll be stripping the axle down tomorrow and maybe getting the brakelines cut and flared and some fittings on them. I'll be taking pictures along the way of tear down modification and rebuild and I'll be sure to post them up as I go. Here's the running total so far.

Junkyard 8.8 with 4.10s Traklock, rear discs: $68 and some sweat equity.

Passenger side brakeline, Grand Marquis flange and bolts, 8.25 spring plates, misc brakeline fittings: $15 and more sweat equity.

U-bolts from O'Reilly's(P/N 35664): $46.

Spring Perches from EMS: $34.

Total: $163

After I get the brackets cut off the axle I'm going to figure out the shock mounts. Once I buy that stuff and some paint, and get the rotors turned, I should be at a grand total for the build. I'm thinking I'm going to put the axle in with the stock diff cover for now just to get everything going, then get the RuffStuff in a couple weeks. That way it will give me time to get some miles on it and change the fluid once the new cover comes in.