Im puting in an extentions or extra fuse in my fuse box. It says that its limit is for 10 amps. Im actually hooking it to an aux fuse box for those lines to be hot only when the ignition is on. The hook up is what he instructions say to do but the method is a little different.
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Fuse box
- Thread starter mavrick
- Start date
Lawn Cher'
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westampton, NJ
Huh?
Rev Den
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Plainfield, IL
Huh?
- Location
- Coshocton, OH
Huh?
goodburbon
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- Location
- Westcliffe Colorado.
huh?
stewie
NAXJA Forum User
huh??
OT
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jensen, UT
Oh, I see.
Take pictures of the fire.:flame:
Just do it the way the instructions say.
It's BAD JUJU to exceed maximum amperage ratings.
Take pictures of the fire.:flame:
Just do it the way the instructions say.
It's BAD JUJU to exceed maximum amperage ratings.
- Location
- Coshocton, OH
Bad Terry.OT said:
:twak:
You broke the circle!
OT
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- Jensen, UT
Huh?scoobyxj said:
MogifiedXJ
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- Tellico, TN
Huh?
IXNAYXJ
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- Wherever the next race is.
Huh?
-----Matt-----
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CanMan
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- Lake Tapps, WA
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GreenGhost
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- Reno, NV.
Mavrick,
So you want to run an extra fuse block that's only powered when the ignition is on, and you were going to run it off a 10Amp limited "ignition hot" circuit that's in the original fuze box. Did I get that right? The problem being you obviously want to be able to run more than 10Amps worth of gadgets from the new fuze block. You could run a new line from the battery to power the new block and run it through a relay that is powered by that "ignition hot" circuit. That would turn the power to the new fuze block on only when the ignition is hot/on. Don't forget to fuze the new power line near the battery.
Automotive electrical is not my strong suit, but I've been wanting to do something similar and have been hunting information on it for a while. Can anyone a) give better information than I have b) let us both know what size of fuse to run in the original circuit that would be only running the relay? If it's dictated by the size of the relay, can you tell me for a 40Amp relay to power a 40Amp max load fuze block)?
Thanks.
So you want to run an extra fuse block that's only powered when the ignition is on, and you were going to run it off a 10Amp limited "ignition hot" circuit that's in the original fuze box. Did I get that right? The problem being you obviously want to be able to run more than 10Amps worth of gadgets from the new fuze block. You could run a new line from the battery to power the new block and run it through a relay that is powered by that "ignition hot" circuit. That would turn the power to the new fuze block on only when the ignition is hot/on. Don't forget to fuze the new power line near the battery.
Automotive electrical is not my strong suit, but I've been wanting to do something similar and have been hunting information on it for a while. Can anyone a) give better information than I have b) let us both know what size of fuse to run in the original circuit that would be only running the relay? If it's dictated by the size of the relay, can you tell me for a 40Amp relay to power a 40Amp max load fuze block)?
Thanks.
GreenGhost said:
Basically what is comes down to is i purchased a Painless Aux Fuse box. It has 3 hot anytime spots and 4 Ignition hot spots. For the 4 spots ingnition hot wires, a pink wire is required to run to a fuse that is only hot while the ignition is on. While at autozone i saw a contraption that allows you to connect a single wire to a fuse slot. But it said it rated for a max of 10amps. Im not very knowledgable about electric systems so i was just asking. From the start i thought 10amps ant nothing. Hopefully this is a better explanation.
- Location
- Coshocton, OH
The Painless fuse block has a relay to control the ign hot circuts. The power will come from the main line in, and the pink wire only triggers the ign hot side. The pink wire used to trigger the relay will only be drawing a few milliamps (less than one amp) those fuse taps that you found will be perfect for that. (I am supprised the kit didn't come with one for just that perpuse. )The heavy wire from the block needs to go directly to the battery, and the circut breaker need to be installed as close as possable to the battery.
EDIT: Oh I almost forgot. Huh?
EDIT: Oh I almost forgot. Huh?
scoobyxj said:The Painless fuse block has a relay to control the ign hot circuts. The power will come from the main line in, and the pink wire only triggers the ign hot side. The pink wire used to trigger the relay will only be drawing a few milliamps (less than one amp) those fuse taps that you found will be perfect for that. (I am supprised the kit didn't come with one for just that perpuse. )The heavy wire from the block needs to go directly to the battery, and the circut breaker need to be installed as close as possable to the battery.
EDIT: Oh I almost forgot. Huh?
It came with a fuse adapter but non seem to fit any of the fuses. I have everything else already hooked up. Thanks for the reply.
- Location
- Coshocton, OH
I get excatly what you ment now. The tap is to big for the Mini ATO type fuses in the oem fuse box. Well if the taps you found will work with Mini fuses then you can use those, or you can use an Ign hot wire and tap into it (easiest place to find one is at the radio), or if the new fuse block is going under the hood use a Ign hot fuse in the PDC. IIRC the auto shutdown relay fuse is only hot with the Ign in the run position.mavrick said:
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