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Im Screwed Bigtime

jk333

NAXJA Forum User
Location
WA
my crankshaft has a groove worn in it from a hardened rear manin seal and now after a new seal installed the groove in the crankshaft itself is stil lthere and the rig leaks so much, its undrivable. option 1-new crankshaft, option 2-super budget stroker (possibly while te motor is stil in the Jeep), option 3-engine rebuild (basic and hopefully in the Jeep), basically my crankshaft is useless. oh and im opn a paper thin budget.:flamemad::flamemad::flamemad: suggestions welcomed greatly.
 
Take a trip to NAPA or someplace and see if you can find a seal that is just a tad smaller on the inner diameter. It may be a long shot but its possible.
 
good ideas guys, but i really cant afford to take the chance. no offense. im a full time studnet and i work, so the Jeep is my only mode of transport. to replace the crank, im looking at $500 just for labor, and that's the cheap end. im still trying to explore options, but it really psses me off at myself, i caused this. the way i look at it is -i did a bone yeard mortor swap and it turned aout to be $1100. I could do another, but if a get a cheap mechaninc wiolling to rebuild the lower end (new rings and bearing,) in the Jeep, that might be more cost effective for me. God knows ive sunk alot of money in parts into it. and thank you for the fast erplys
 
is it possible to do new rings, and bearings with the 4.0 still in my Jeep? as in pull everything out from the bottom.
 
buy a 4.0 at a yard for 150$ and swap it in a weekend. worth it.
 
they make rear main seals that are offset just for this reason.
 
funvtec said:
they make rear main seals that are offset just for this reason.
Yup, that would be the Option 4 that wasn't mentioned. An offset lip or double lip seal will ride on a different part of the crank.

That's a much cheaper alternative than any of the previously-mentioned ones, and will afford you time to budget out that stroker.

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
Yucca-Man said:
Yup, that would be the Option 4 that wasn't mentioned. An offset lip or double lip seal will ride on a different part of the crank.

That's a much cheaper alternative than any of the previously-mentioned ones, and will afford you time to budget out that stroker.

Jim www.yuccaman.com


anytime i buy a RMS i buy the double lip just for cheap insurance. you dont know if you have a groove until its to late.

this is 1 job i really only want to do once.
 
jk333 said:
is it possible to do new rings, and bearings with the 4.0 still in my Jeep? as in pull everything out from the bottom.
No, pistons only come out on top. To get the crank out, you have to pull the engine or the transmission anyway.
 
see if a speedy sleeve is available
 
What causes the rms to harden like this, so I can avoid it? Not to hijack.
 
Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=FEL&MfrPartNumber=BS40612


It wouldn't hurt to go take a look at one of these at the parts store to visually gauge whether the two lips will span the groove in the crank before you plop down big $ on another solution.

What causes the groove? Seals get hard as they get old? The OP is in WA so I suppose it gets cold there? A cold start every day for 10 years with an old, cold seal with old oil?

My favorite theory is that a lot of short trips without warming up the engine leaves acidic water in the crank case mixed in with the oil. The RMS actually helps keep some of that right at the seal area even when the car is off and eventually the acidic watery goo eats pits in the metal.
 
on a super small budget a crank from the junkyard will be your best option. replace all the gaskets while your in there.
 
Yucca-Man said:
Yup, that would be the Option 4 that wasn't mentioned. An offset lip or double lip seal will ride on a different part of the crank.

That's a much cheaper alternative than any of the previously-mentioned ones, and will afford you time to budget out that stroker.

Jim www.yuccaman.com

X3
 
tkjeeper said:
What causes the rms to harden like this, so I can avoid it? Not to hijack.

yeah it is a hijack, dont procrastinate, i left mine leak for a year (only because i was going through a hard time and had my mind elseware). as sson as it starts leaking, repalce it.
 
sjkimmel99 said:
Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=FEL&MfrPartNumber=BS40612


It wouldn't hurt to go take a look at one of these at the parts store to visually gauge whether the two lips will span the groove in the crank before you plop down big $ on another solution.

What causes the groove? Seals get hard as they get old? The OP is in WA so I suppose it gets cold there? A cold start every day for 10 years with an old, cold seal with old oil?

My favorite theory is that a lot of short trips without warming up the engine leaves acidic water in the crank case mixed in with the oil. The RMS actually helps keep some of that right at the seal area even when the car is off and eventually the acidic watery goo eats pits in the metal.

i had no idea they existed. i would be so thrilled if that's my solution. i have another rms that is good from yesterday, so ill take it t oshucks. And thank all of you for the responses.
 
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