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Death wobble

sbilbrey

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Marysville, Ohio
1998 Cherokee Sport, 150K Miles, totally stock. There is a ramp in my town where there is a transition from concrete to asphault with a large bump while turning. Going over it at about 70 to 75 the steering wheel shuck violently for a couple seconds.

I figured something was loose in the front end. Following the Haynes manual I jacked one side at a time and checked for movement in the lifted wheel. Both felt very tight. While I was in there I replaced the front brakes. While it was in the air I lubed the front end. I also had someone turn the wheel from side to side while I looked for anything wrong. I could not find anything. I also rotated the tires while I was working.

It felt better after the lube, but it does not feel as solid as I think it should. Some people suggested new tie rod ends and possibly a new dampner. Maybe a front end alignment, I am not thinking this will fix it, but maybe the shop will report an issue.

Yesterday I took the front end apart. I removed the tie rod and the center link (actually, center link is the Haynes term, everywhere else I look it seems to also be called a tie rod), as well as the dampner. Looking thru my Essentials catalog, it appears tie rod ends run about 16.99 each and that I need three of these. The dampner is 29.99. So far not bad. But to get the last bushing replaced it looks like you need to purchase the whole center link (or tie rod, the bar that goes from the pitman arm to the right side knuckle with the dampner and the tie rod bolted to it) and that is 64.99. It is piece number 19 in this diagram - http://www.quadratec.com/advisor/jeep_oem_replacement_parts/steering/Cherokee_steering.php. Is it true that the whole piece needs replaced? Is there a way to tell if it should be replaced, or is it enough to know that it is a 10 year old vehicle with 150K on it?

Maybe this would be a better option - http://www.quadratec.com/products/56117_06.htm

I am also planning on replacing the sway bar bushings with polyurethane kit such as the daystar set.

This is a street driven vehicle, it is my wifes daily driver and will be my daughters first car in a year. So I want something solid and I am not that concerned about offroading or putting big tires on it anytime soon.

After doing all this I plan on getting a front end alignment and hoping the death wobble is gone.

What do you guys think? Anything you would do differently?

Thanks,
Sammer
 
check and see if the frame end bolt on your track bar has any play
 
i replaced all of it on my old stock cherokee and it did the trick after i replaced it all death wobble was gone i was happy then i sold it i orderd the drag link from quadratec and it was a good replace ment then i got the tie rod from the stealer ship and that was better then the bent one i had on there before after about 150 bucks of parts and a 55 dollar alignment it was steering awesome had absolutly no play in the wheel. its just a really good idea. on my new cherokee im gonna have to do the same thing all the bushings look pretty much shot but this time im going to be doing a heavy duty swap maybe currie or something else
 
Unless you plan on constantly greasing the urethane bushings for the sway bar stick with the OEM rubber style. They will make a nice squeeking noise.
 
Project update and some new questions.

Update:
I have replaced the tiew rod ends, the entire steering arm, the stabilizer shock and the sway bar links and bushings. All-in-all, not to bad of a job. I took it in for a front end alignment and they told me I need new right wheel bearings.

Questions:
- Should bearings be replaced in pairs? If I am doing the right, should I also do the left?

- Looking at the Quadratec website it looks like the hub assembly is sold as a sealed unit. Is this the way to go? The reason I ask is that the repair manual states that disassembly and repair should be left to a repair shop with the right tools. Is this a viable option? How would it compare to the $130 cost per wheel from quadratec? I am not being cheap here, if buying the complete unit would be the right thing to do then that is what I will do?

Thanks,
Sammer
 
The bearing is replaced as a unit. Repairing it is not an option. My Haynes manual says that you can replace the bearings (the old fashioned way), but only on the 2 wheel drive model.
 
No, just replacing a bad one is fine. I had my right front go last spring, put a new Timken unit in. Only hiccup was getting the bolts free, with their damned funny looking (12pt?) heads.
 
On my 3" lifted XJ I replaced the tie rod ends and threw on some JSK quicker discos which I think did the job. Other things replaced that I don't think (could be wrong) were a factor..U joints and front coils since they were broken.
 
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