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Winch Bolts

Tommy4949

NAXJA Forum User
I used my new winch a few times this past weekend. I did very well for a $300 Smittybilt. Anyway, I ended up bending the two passenger's side bolts holding the winch to the Detours BackBone. The bolts that came with the winch were grade 5.

Should I replace the with more grade 5 bolts or bump all for of them up to grade 8?

I have heard that grade 5 bolts will bend when a grade 5 bolt would break, so I am concerned about wither I should keep them grae 5 or go with grade 8. Please share your thoughts and experience on this. TIA.
 
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anything off road should be grade 8. did you ever see that episode of xtreme 4x4 ware the entire front axle fell off the ranger. that was caused by a grade 5 bolt. everything grade 8
 
My M8000 came with grade 5's, as well as both of my bumpers. Seems like the manufacturers do it for a reason. Had me worried at first too though.
 
Grade 5's will fail longer before grade 8's start to bend. More than likely, you over or under tightened the original bolts or the mating surface was poor. The bolts should not be taking any side loads. They should be clamping everything tight enough so that friction between the surfaces takes the load.

Grade 5's should be adequate, but I'd prefer grade 8s as they have a beteer plating and don't rust as easily.
 
It doesn't matter. The issue is keeping the bolts tight. The winches come with grade 5 bolts, and I'm sure Warn and the rest know what they are doing. If the bolts are tightened properly, the friction of the mating surfaces takes the load and the bolts just hold it together. The bolts themselves only take the load if they are not torqued properly and the mating surfaces slip. The advantage of grade 8 over grade 5 is that they will take more torque, so more load on the mating surfaces. If the size of the bolts is engineered to take the load, and the bolt fails, it either wasn't tight enough or it was over torqued and broke.
 
Goatman said:
It doesn't matter. The issue is keeping the bolts tight. The winches come with grade 5 bolts, and I'm sure Warn and the rest know what they are doing. If the bolts are tightened properly, the friction of the mating surfaces takes the load and the bolts just hold it together. The bolts themselves only take the load if they are not torqued properly and the mating surfaces slip. The advantage of grade 8 over grade 5 is that they will take more torque, so more load on the mating surfaces. If the size of the bolts is engineered to take the load, and the bolt fails, it either wasn't tight enough or it was over torqued and broke.

x2, I run grade 5 bolts on my winch. And iv broke two winch cables now and never had a problem with the bolts.. Just make sure you keep them sligtly tighter then snug..
 
Goatman said:
It doesn't matter. The issue is keeping the bolts tight. The winches come with grade 5 bolts, and I'm sure Warn and the rest know what they are doing. If the bolts are tightened properly, the friction of the mating surfaces takes the load and the bolts just hold it together. The bolts themselves only take the load if they are not torqued properly and the mating surfaces slip. The advantage of grade 8 over grade 5 is that they will take more torque, so more load on the mating surfaces. If the size of the bolts is engineered to take the load, and the bolt fails, it either wasn't tight enough or it was over torqued and broke.

What he said - ^ - but I'd be inclined to put two SAE5 bolts in. If the SAE8s should fail, the SAE5s will catch it and stretch, instead of snapping altogether (winches are heavy, aren't they?)

And the plating on SAE8 isn't "better" than SAE5 - just different. SAE5 uses a plain zinc coating, while SAE8 uses a "yellow" zinc chromate - the reason being, so they can be easily told apart on sight (apart from the hash marks on the head, that is. If the platings are different, then you don't have to look at the head to see what's going on - which makes it easier to identify them - usually - in the field.)
 
I am pretty sure I tightened them quite a bit more than what the instructions said. The instructions said 30-35 ftlbs and I cranked them down really tight, which I have a habit of tightening bolts more than they need to be tightened in the first place. I might have compromised the strength of the bolts doing that. I will just buy 4 new grade 5 bolts and see how they hold up next time. Thanks guys.:thumbup:
 
5-90 said:
And the plating on SAE8 isn't "better" than SAE5 - just different.
I have noticed for the bolts I use that the yellow chromate finish seems to hold up better. http://dmpfasteners.com/index.php/2008/02/04/bolt-finishes/. I thought hydrogen embrittlement was a concern when using zinc plating on grade 8 bolts, and that it was actually cheaper to do the zinc chromate process instead of the plain zinc hot dip which requires an oven bake to avoid embrittlement problems on gr-8.

I don't really want to open up the huge grade5 versus grade8 debates again. Qudratec has a decent writeup. Scroll to the part about which grade to use. http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-141.htm.

Another good writeup http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_1.htm
 
Tommy4949 said:
I am pretty sure I tightened them quite a bit more than what the instructions said. The instructions said 30-35 ftlbs and I cranked them down really tight, which I have a habit of tightening bolts more than they need to be tightened in the first place. I might have compromised the strength of the bolts doing that. I will just buy 4 new grade 5 bolts and see how they hold up next time. Thanks guys.:thumbup:

"Too tight" can be just as bad as "too loose" - there are issues either way.

The idea of installation torque is a simple way to state "installed preload," meaning a certain amount of tension is upon the fastener in a static condition (overseas, "torque wrenches" are called "tension wrenches" - the jury is out on which phrase is more technically accurate.) Metal is "elastic" and "plastic" - in an engineering sense. It is "elastic" because it can withstand a certain amount of force (resulting in deformation) and recover when the force is removed. This is where "preload" comes in.

It is "plastic" in the sense that a force above a certain level can result in a permanent deformation ("plastic deformation") - this threshhold of force is known as the "elastic limit."

Preload in a specific application is selected and calculated to allow a comfortable margin of additional force without exceeding the elastic limit of the fastener. This is why overtightening fasteners can be as bad as undertightening them - if you undertighten, you don't have the clamping force that has been designed and accounted for. If you overtighten, you have less room for force between the static preload level and the elastic limit - the point at which your fastener deforms. Permanently.

And, why do winches come with SAE5 hardware? Because the failure mode for SAE5 is less drastic than for SAE8. If you were to look at a stress/strain plot for two fasteners - both new, both the same size, but one SAE5 and the other SAE8 - you'll see that there is a much more pronounced "peak" before ultimate failure for the SAE8 than for the SAE5. This means that the SAE8 will stretch less before it ruptures - the stronger fasteners tend to "snap" like twigs, while the weaker ones will stretch and fail more like a bit of taffy (the comparison isn't quite valid, but it serves for our purposes.)

This is why I'd tend to put mostly SAE8 fasteners in, but have two SAE5s in opposite corners. The SAE5 fasteners would also be torqued about 10-15% less than the SAE8 - the 8's will fail, but the 5's have enough preload on them to retain the winch and prevent it from becoming a very heavy projectile in the case of drastic failure. Ouch.

Zinc chromate plating may be more resistant to environmental attack than plain "white zinc", but that is a side effect. The primary purpose of the chromate plating on SAE8 is for visual identification.
 
I have not seen your winch. But are the mounting parallel? No large gapes? If so fix or replace as needed.
If the bolt threads into a nut you may general replace the grade 5 with an 8 .
If the bolt threads into a housing or block of any type remember that if the bolt snaps off or becomes impossible to remove for any reason. You may have to drill it out. Grade 8 bolts are dam near as hard as many drill bits. At least they are a lot more of a PIA to drill out then grade 5. I would keep this in mind when replacing grade 5 with 8.
 
badron said:
I have not seen your winch. But are the mounting parallel? No large gapes? If so fix or replace as needed.

I'm not sure what you mean. When the bolts failed and bent, one side of the winch, (the side I was pulling towards), shifted forward while the other side stayed where it was. The washers that came with the winch actually deformed aslo and pulled up into the hole/slot in the Detours winch mount.

Should I get grade 5 bolts and nuts and grade 8 washers; all grade 5 replacement, or mix and match in a different way?

5-90, there are only 4 bolts/washers/nuts holding the winch to the mount, do you mean to use grade 8 hardware in two opposite corners and grade 5 in the other two?
 
Tommy4949 said:
5-90, there are only 4 bolts/washers/nuts holding the winch to the mount, do you mean to use grade 8 hardware in two opposite corners and grade 5 in the other two?

That's the general idea. What size (nominal) are the bolts? I can crunch some numbers to figure out what the shear load tolerance would be...
 
Manufacturers don't always do what is Best for the consumer, but rather what is best for their Legal department... Often they supply bolts that are not as strong as "Normal" bolts of the same grade, expecting the bolts to fail before major damage to the vehicle happens... Preventing lawsuits. Welcome to Modern America.

I'd replace them with Grade 5 and torque to specs, but as stated before, check the mounting surfaces, they Need to be Flat. ~Ace~
 
I can't belive you guys are telling him to reuse weak grade 5 bolts that allready failed him. Grade 8 or better is all I buy. I think his problem was that he put way too much torque on his grade 5 bolts but thats the problem I have with grade 5. If you torque them proper you cant squish and bend your allready warped junk together. You need grade 8 to really pull stuff down tight. If I broke winch bolts I'd be going down the street to my local Caterpillar dealer. They stock their own grade that is better than grade 8. They have all the sizes and length you need. Basically they are used to hold bulldozers together and are worth the few bucks when you can not afford a failer.
This is the problem. Most bolts today come from overseas (China). When they break you can see the heat treating only penetrated a millimeter into the steel. So his winch loosened up a tad and chafed his bolt. Snaps in no time when the chaff gets to the soft inner metal. At least grade 8 is suposed to be better but you can still see the heat treating is not what it used to be. Snap off a few in a vise to get the visual and feel for how they break. Put a quick grinder mark on a grade 5 and do the same test. You will be heading for grade 8 and to your cat dealer for anything critical from now on. http://www.cat.com/cda/layout?m=37648&x=7
 
Per my instructions from Tmax it says to use "at least" a grade 5 bolt to hold the winch down. On that winch the bolts thread into nuts that slide into the winch so if the bolts break of fail it does not hurt the winch housing. My winch came with metric mounting bolts grade 8.8 which is a grade 5 SAE bolt.

I do think that grade 5 bolts are strong enough, you probably just over tightend them and stressed them when you installed the winch. You also said that the washers are deformed and being pulled into the mounting holes in your bumper, are those holes alot bigger than your mounting bolts?
 
The washers that came with the winch actually deformed aslo and pulled up into the hole/slot in the Detours winch mount.
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I would use a thicker/harder washer or multi washer per bolt. I lover fender washers but don't really thing that what's needed here. I just love fender washers.
 
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Washers are also graded like bolts. Get thick grade 8 washers and bolts and quite using a 5 foot pipe on the wrench you use to tighten them. Stack two different diameter washers to spread the load if you are spanning a wide gap. Inside diameter should fit the bolt perfect.
 
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