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Rusty Framerail replacement

97Jeepers

NAXJA Forum User
Hi all, well im planning a lift and when i looked under the jeep, I found that a section of the framerail (about 5" long) is rusted through on the bottom. it is on the Pass. side just behind the bumpstop. Has anyone encountered something like this before and if so, how did you remedy it? I will try to post pics later. I took it to a collision shop reccomended to me, they seemed accomidating, but were hesitant to jump in, and fix it. I understand the magnutude of repairing unitbodies. Is there anywhere I can get a OEM framerail for cheaper than jeepoemparts.com, they quote 340.95 + ship.

Thanks
 
I can tell you this: With replacement panels-you get what you pay for. The $50-$100 you may save on a part will repay you by not fitting worth a crap (READ: lots more time fitting & trimming, fitting & trimming, then fitting & trimming some more), plus it will more than likely be made from inferior materials.

Pay the money up front to avoid the aggravation on the other end of the job, and if you're paying a body shop to do it, you have to figure that their rate is in the $70 +/hour range, and if they have to take 3-4 extra hours to make a part fit (if they will even do the job with a cheaper part), it's your loss, not theirs. If a body shop is legit, and recommends a certain brand of parts it's NOT because they make more money off of them. Quite the contrary, they actually make less, but it pays them dividends by usings parts that they KNOW will fit, and they won't have a vehicle in the shop for weeks, when the job should have only taken a couple of days to complete.

EDIT:-I'm parting out a '96, and if you show me EXACTLY what you need, I may be able to cut it out for you for considerably cheaper than a new part, plus it will be a factory part.
 
why not plate it? use some 3x3 angle to stitch and plug weld it to where you can and use some plate to tie it into the body. I would think that would be worlds cheaper and stronger. Plus if you or a buddy can lay some good beads you're set.
 
Like I said, i will post photos later of the rust. I am not sure how far the rust extends, it only looks like tht 5" long section on the bottom. I am TOTALLY agreeing with the shop's decision to only work with factory parts, it makes sense in my mind. I am definately planning to stiffen up the rest of the frame, Detours, belly pan, etc. I have a good plan of attack, but when it comes to fiddling with the actual factory welds, I'd prefer to have a professional help out, at least with the welding. The shop is being extreemly accomidating so far with advice as well as being ok with me removing everything prior to the work being done (like bumper, exhaust, fuel tank, etc). georgiamike, here's a diagram, I need number 8, http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214358&chapter=&Sectionids=0,51909&groupid=51910&subgroupid=3291&componentid=0&make=17&model=Cherokee&year=1997&graphicID=WB97480&callout=8&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0
If you can remove the rail, by drilling out the spot welds, etc. I am extreemlu interested. Will post pics later when Im not at work.

Thanks
 
See if your local junkyard will sell you the section you need from one of the donors in their yard. You will be able to buy just the frame section you need. You may have to spend some time removing some of the extra material you will get when they cut it, but the overall cost will be much lower than the TradeMotion parts.

Try www.car-part.com to locate junkyards.
 
Heres the photos:

S4010159.jpg
S4010160.jpg
S4010161.jpg
67lemansman
 
box steel weld that shit together! you'll be fine, mine looked like that from the rear seats all the way back, i have 3x3 now all the way, with 3 inch plate on the outside, and it rides 70 down the highway straight as can be.

lots of prep and stripping, but it'll be worth it, and you'll be more trail ready than if you had a perfect unibody.
 
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