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WJ Knuckle High Steer??

J

jjmat3

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Big Bear & Lancaster
Ok, so I have the WJ knuckle setup on my HPD30 but now want to flip the tie rod to the top side to gain some clearance. What exactly do I need to do?
What size reamer do I need?
Will the WJ ends I have on the tie-rod now still work when flipped or will there be new clearance issues?
Is there anything else I need to do for this to work?

The info I am finding during searching isn't all the answers in one place and i feel like I'm getting a couple different stories. So Wise XJ folks that have done the WJ setup AND flipped the tie rod, what say ye?

Thanks for any help!
 
BTT, Anyone done this?
Found some info but nothing specific about using the heavy duty tie rod w/ WJ ends and flipping it.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=904490&highlight=wj+tierod+tie+rod+flip

The rest of the threads I am finding are not specific to the WJ setup, mostly just for flipping on stock D30 knuckles or using ZJ setup, etc.

Help! This is my daily driver and I need to have this finished in a day and can't afford to get half way through and find myself stuck needing parts or something.
 
I would think you would need some inserts that fit the TRE. You would ream the top side out to the size of the insert and weld the insert into the knuckle. Wish I had more info but the rest of my info is on my computer at home.
 
You need Tie rod flip inserts.

trf2.jpg

trf3.jpg


http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
 
Cal, I knew you would eventually chime in. Thanks!
So thats it? The WJ ends I have on my current tie-rod will not be bass-ackwards when flipped to the top? I thought I had read that you need to use a different tie-rod end on one side or it hits something??
Guess it is time to just bite the bullet and go for it.
 
They will be exactly that, backwards.

You'll flip the entire tie rod setup around (left to right).

Have a professional weld the inserts in, with proper pre and post heating.
 
RNMedic said:
does the stock WJ tie rod fit or do you have to use the one from JKS??
Click to expand...


The stock one is too long and kind of weak.

You need to do the JKS one. Most of the other shops dont even have a set of tap's to fab one up.
 
thanks thats what I thought. Is the WJ one too long?? and can I use the wj drag link?
 
Yes the WJ one is too long, and I'd imagine the WJ draglink would be as well.

JKS offers a draglink too.
 
With WJ knuckles, flip inserts to move the links on top of the knuckles, you will need to fit a different tie-rod end where the draglink joins the knuckle.

On my right hand drive XJ I had to order the tie-rod end for that position for a LHD vehicle. So using this logic you need the part from a RHD WJ or something with the equivalent bend.

I used tie-rod and draglink from JKS.
 
English XJ said:
With WJ knuckles, flip inserts to move the links on top of the knuckles, you will need to fit a different tie-rod end where the draglink joins the knuckle.

On my right hand drive XJ I had to order the tie-rod end for that position for a LHD vehicle. So using this logic you need the part from a RHD WJ or something with the equivalent bend.

I used tie-rod and draglink from JKS.
Click to expand...


See these are the posts that have me confused. You get a few opinions that the JKS tie rod w/ WJ ends will work and then someone chimes in that you need a different TR on one end to make it work.
This is what I currently have:
Frontend.jpg

So as far as the drag link and trac-bar are concerned, those are covered and heck for all I know I already have a RHD bent tie rod on one end. (bought the parts from someone that is now telling me that the knuckles are already tapered form teh top side too. (I was working on the rear end when the front tie rod was assembled so never noticed)

Anyhow, hoping to finally lay this to rest so others looking for the info can find it easier than it has been for me so far. as soon as I am over the flu I will be out in the driveway tearing into it to find out where I am Really at and whats up w/ the knuckles.

Thanks for the info so far. I'll share whatever I come up w/.
 
Ok, Took the tie-rod off and the previous owner of the knuckles was right, They Were already reamed from the top side. I flipped it and bolted it back up and this is where she is at now.
HiSteer3.jpg

HiSteer1.jpg

Clearance looks fine except where it hits the trac bar mt. at full right:
HiSteer4.jpg
(pic is just shy of full right turn)

Guessing that if that Right side TRE was curved the other way it would clear completely w/ no problems? If so, what part number TRE do I need to get the opposite curve so it clears?
 
Update: Well, the reamed out knuckle was not reamed out enough And to do the job right I loctite-ed in some machined spacers to the bottom taper before re-reaming them again so the TRE would fit correctly. If I had not done that the holes would have eventually worn themselves out and ruined the hole in the knuckle. Steering feels great now and the TR is up out of the way so it will stay away from the rocks.
Here is a pic of the inserts.
TRESpacers.jpg

Got them from a friend so not sure of the source but can get the info if anyone needs it. I could have gotten the full inserts mentioned in this thread and drilled the knuckles out and welded in the inserts but this was the solution we came up with instead. Hopefully it will last.
The Pass side still contacts the axle trac-bar mount on full turn but doesn't seem to be a problem so I will live w/ it for now.
 
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