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OBD 1 codes

Wiser

Wiser

NAXJA Forum User
Location
92345
hey guy i did the old key trick check engine light flasher. I came up with these codes and used a legend. Anyone tell me wut the cause could be for eachone. i am stumped!!!!
12
Battery Disconnect Direct Battery Input to Powertrain Control Module (PCM) disconnected in last 50 key-ON cycles

24
TPS Voltage too High/Low Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) input voltage outside acceptable range

23
Air Charge Temperature Sensor Voltage too High/Low Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor input voltage outside acceptable range

51
HEGO Sensor Signal Stays "below centre" HEGO Sensor indicates constant "Lean AFR" condition

55. the End

Heres where i got the codes.

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/obd1.html
 
symptoms: delayed gas response at idle, seems to flood when i step on the gas to speed up. i have to gradually step on it to speed up.
 
when was the last time you disconnected your battery? how old is it? some times the battery going bad or having a bad connection will cause multiple faults like you show. clear the codes and see what heppens
 
no, shut it off, and disconnect the battery so the computer loses all power. I forgot if its 1 minute or 10 minutes...but I just have a beer and reconnect the ground. Then, if you check codes before you start it, you should just get 12 and 55
 
ok because ive disconnected the battery and computer before and the check engine light was still on.
 
Gerr said:
disconnect battery put both connectors together touching for a minute then drink your beer for good excuse to do so.
Click to expand...
ok. then check the codes? the check engine light will still be on though, done that too
 
well you might have an issue. clearing the codes won't shut off the cel necessarily. If you're O2 sensor is bad (which is what that HEGO sensor sounds like) it could cause it to run lean or rich, making the engine run hot or cool, and making it very difficult for the TPS to calibrate effectively.

Clearing the codes will just let you start from ground zero so you know exactly what your dealing with.
 
yeah i took off the catalytic converter but it was doing this before i did that, i replace the two sensors on the throttle body.
 
so wut could be the cause o this high or low voltage stuff on the sensors
 
Heater is totally independent....that's probably a bad valve, cracked vacuum line, leaky heater core, or blown fan motor.....or at least those are the most common problems I've seen with heaters.

Also, did this problem start before or after you changed the sensors on the throttle body? 2 reasons I ask. First, sensors have been known to be bad straight from the store, and second, if the computer is cleared when sensors are changed, sometimes the computer doesn't read them correctly as they don't have the same calibration as the previous sensor, and the computer doesn't recognize it as a new sensor and consequently doesn't attempt to "learn" the new device.
 
SanDiegoXJ said:
Heater is totally independent....that's probably a bad valve, cracked vacuum line, leaky heater core, or blown fan motor.....or at least those are the most common problems I've seen with heaters.

Also, did this problem start before or after you changed the sensors on the throttle body? 2 reasons I ask. First, sensors have been known to be bad straight from the store, and second, if the computer is cleared when sensors are changed, sometimes the computer doesn't read them correctly as they don't have the same calibration as the previous sensor, and the computer doesn't recognize it as a new sensor and consequently doesn't attempt to "learn" the new device.
Click to expand...
it didnt do it before but he xj wouldnt keep an idle
 
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