Any particular reason you're doing this? You'll also need shorter springs for the front, and you may need shorter shocks as well (since you're going to be effectively lowering the vehicle by 2-1/2" to 3".)
You'll need to relocate the leaf spring perches on the rear axle to below the tube, and you'll also want to reverse the "centreing pins" in the leaves (from a "head down" attitude to a "head up" - there's a hole that the head fits into in the perch. Either that, or bore the hole in the perch out enough that you can get the nut to sit in there, vice the head of the bolt.)
I'm cranky enough that I'd want to get a small plate and drill/counterbore it to protect whichever end of the centreing pin sticks out the bottom, and I'd just use new hardware as well (5/16" socket head bolt and nut, IIRC.) Use a small steel plate about the same width as the spring (2-1/2"?) drill and counterbore the centre of the plate to pass the bolt and have the head fully recessed below the surface of the plate. Chamfer the edges - the ones parallel to the spring can be lightly chamfered to break the corner, the ones at the fore and aft edges should be heavily chamfered (45-60*) the full thickness of the plate so you're less likely to hang up on anything.
The previous paragraph assumes you can't guarantee that it's not going to spend any time off-road.
Also, you'll want to protect the ends of the U-bolts retaining the springs - same reason applies.
If it's for a "street only" vehicle, it's not a lot of work. If it's intended for an off-road vehicle, you're better off leaving the springs where they are - SOA - and note that most people who build pickup trucks tend to switch from a SUA to an SOA configuration as well - there's a reason for this.