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disable d30?

M

mikeny

NAXJA Forum User
Location
bay shore, ny
A friend of a friend is going to help me regear the 8.25, he said in addition to removing the fds I also should disconnect the front hubs by removing some "outside located" part from each hub, so the front dif doesn't turn.

Can this be done at the hub w/o a opening up the dif housing?

Thanks,

Mike

btw, I have a '98 w/o disconnects.
 
I know that you must pull the opposite ds until both difs are completed, but I think his logic is that it's easier to "hear/feel" the new gears when the front r/p isn't rotating; according to him, removing just the fds is not enough.

Thanks for the fast reply,

Mike
 
Your friend doesnt have a clue!
 
Are u wondering if you can just drive it for awhile w/ different gear ratios? Cause you will be fine w/ the DS off. No need to go pulling parts off of the hub assembly.
 
"You cannot remove the axles and drive the vehicle".
 
There are no plans to remove the axle shafts, ditto the front wheels. Distilled, he said there was a way to prevent the front axles/r&p from rotating by removing something in the front hub area, regardless of the status of the fds.

Simply asked, is this mechanically possible on a d30 from a '98?

If this can't be done (whether it should be done or not), it behooves me to reconsider getting his assistance.

Again, he felt that having the front r/p not turning (not just the fds gone) can help in setting up the rear end.

Thanks again.

Mike
 
It cant be done and I think he's "NUTS".What does setting up the rear gears have to do with the front?By the time you get it on the road it had better be "right" or else its already to late!
 
Ok, to paraphrase what Phx is saying......

The only way to keep the front r&p from turning is to remove the inner axleshafts. You have to keep the outer stubs in place to hold the 'hub' (unit bearing) in place. If you were to pull the stubs out of the hubs they would fall apart. You can pull both axleshafts & separate the inner axles from the stubs (outer axles) by removing the ujoint. Then reinstall the stubs & hubs into the steering knuckle. Pull the front d/s & you're all set. Good luck.
 
vintagespeed said:
Ok, to paraphrase what Phx is saying......

The only way to keep the front r&p from turning is to remove the inner axleshafts. You have to keep the outer stubs in place to hold the 'hub' (unit bearing) in place. If you were to pull the stubs out of the hubs they would fall apart. You can pull both axleshafts & separate the inner axles from the stubs (outer axles) by removing the ujoint. Then reinstall the stubs & hubs into the steering knuckle. Pull the front d/s & you're all set. Good luck.
Click to expand...

this would work assuming he has no need for gear oil in the front diff :D

then again, it won't be spinning, so he may not :confused:
 
RCP Phx said:
"You cannot remove the axles and drive the vehicle".
Click to expand...

ur kidding right? he is talking about the front axle? why can't u remove them? it is call full float! (sorta) i have done it b4 and so has my friend still drove fine!!!!!!

stoney
 
Stoney said:
ur kidding right? he is talking about the front axle? why can't u remove them? it is call full float! (sorta) i have done it b4 and so has my friend still drove fine!!!!!!

stoney
Click to expand...

Well you would be correct IF we were talking about a D44 or other front axle with a spindle. The D30 doesn't have a spindle and is NOT a full floating assembly. There is one nut that holds your hub to the unit bearing assy, this nut threads on the end of the stub axle. Without the stub axle the hub will fall out of the unit bearing. So you must've been smoking crack that day you & your friend drove around without stub axles? :eek:
 
Vintage called it,I was refering to "stub axles".But why would you dis-assmble your front shafts so you could "set-up" your rear gears??????????
 
RCP Phx said:
It cant be done and I think he's "NUTS".What does setting up the rear gears have to do with the front?By the time you get it on the road it had better be "right" or else its already to late!
Click to expand...

I think the logic was that without the front r/p meshing, under load or not, it would be easier to hear/feel gear noise in the rear after adjusting to specs.

Are you saying that regardless of the accuracy of the b/l, pinion depth, mesh pattern, etc., one should discount any noise/whine after road testing?!?

Mike
 
o thats what it was! my bad! i just left the stub on but the axle shaft was gone! i understand now! well so just take the u joint out of the axle shaft and take the axle shaft out (leave the stub) and then ur gears won't spin!

stoney
 
Stoney said:
o thats what it was! my bad! i just left the stub on but the axle shaft was gone! i understand now! well so just take the u joint out of the axle shaft and take the axle shaft out (leave the stub) and then ur gears won't spin!

stoney
Click to expand...

Don't do that for long. You won't have anything keeping the gear lube inside the diff. Once you pull the axle out of the diff, there is no seal.
 
but if the gears arn't spinning they don't need to be lubed!!!

stoney
 
Stoney said:
but if the gears arn't spinning they don't need to be lubed!!!

stoney
Click to expand...

I didn't say they did. But the center of the bearings where the axle shaft rides is now open. Have a blast if you want to slop gear lube up and down the tubes.
 
mikeny said:

Are you saying that regardless of the accuracy of the b/l, pinion depth, mesh pattern, etc., one should discount any noise/whine after road testing?!?

Mike
Click to expand...

I certainly would be concerned about noise.But my question to you would be if its set-up w/ the proper specs(and you have some noise,and there is a good chance you will,Ive got a 8.25" also),What would you be able to do about it?????
 
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