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Camber Adjust Question?

SOUTHTEXASXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Odem Texas
Anyone change their ball joints?I just finished my TNT Y-link and new 35" and went to firestone to get a align and the adjusted the Toe but said the Camber was non adjustable from the factory and I need new adjustable lower ball joints installed to the tune of $700. I said thanks but no thanks I would install then myself.
So has anyone done this and what the part # I would be looking for to do it.I was thinking to also do the upper as I am in their anyway.

Also my steering wheel still isnt straight that sucks!!
 
Your camber isnt going to be off far enough to worry about, most likely.

Don't do adjustable balljoints - they are not as strong. Someones probably just trying to get some money out of you.
 
Wow! 700 bucks! Your D30 must already be folded like a taco. :)

It takes like an hour to switch out your ball joints on one side... Get a BJ press from the parts store.
 
Dunno where you heard that one, cal.

I put in 2 degree offset balljoints probably 6 years ago to correct caster. It's now at factory specs.

If your camber is off, look at your front axle again. Something is bent, like the axle tubes themselves. cal is probably right, though. It shouldn't be $700 to change lower ball joints. It took 2 of use 4 hours to change all 4 without using power tools.
 
SOUTHTEXASXJ said:
yeah I figured I could change them in a day myself all 4. I can see the tire tilted in at the tops.
Thats more likely caused by castor!
 
you used offset balljoints to correct caster?

i've gotten alignments at a few different places, and 90% of the time, they try and sell me on the "oh you need new ball joints, your camber is off by 0.5* and its going to wear these tires out in 5000 miles" - as was said - trying to get money out of you.
 
JNickel101 said:
you used offset balljoints to correct caster?

i've gotten alignments at a few different places, and 90% of the time, they try and sell me on the "oh you need new ball joints, your camber is off by 0.5* and its going to wear these tires out in 5000 miles" - as was said - trying to get money out of you.

No I can see the tire tilted in so i know it is off.
 
I put the regular upper ball joints with the grease zerk but I believe I have seen adjustable uppers as well. When I put those in it wasn't so much for having the ability to adjust the camber/caster but that all the other lowers I found had the grease fitting on them which doesn't have enough clearance from the axle shafts. If I could have found regular one's that had clearance I would have used them. With the front axle being a solid axle the only thing that should need adjustment in alignment would be toe and caster but caster wouldn't come into play until 8+". Someone correct me if I'm wrong in my thinking.
 
Caster becomes an issue at 6" of lift with a HP D30, less with a Low Pinion D30, unless you run hubs or have a disco HP D30.

Problem lies with the delicate balance of enough caster so your rig will handle properly VS proper pinion angle to keep the spinning front driveshaft vibrations down to an accceptable level.
 
SOUTHTEXASXJ said:
Anyone change their ball joints?I just finished my TNT Y-link and new 35" and went to firestone to get a align and the adjusted the Toe but said the Camber was non adjustable from the factory and I need new adjustable lower ball joints installed to the tune of $700. I said thanks but no thanks I would install then myself.
So has anyone done this and what the part # I would be looking for to do it.I was thinking to also do the upper as I am in their anyway.

Also my steering wheel still isnt straight that sucks!!

Do your hub units check out good? My first XJ had a hub unit go out about a week after I noticed it leaning a bit. I used a puller to extraxt the hub and it pulled it apart, ball bearing fell out,,,,crap.
 
My camber was off due to Old Town Trio at BMRA.

One side was -1.5* and the other was -1*. I installed a Camber Adjustment Kit from Napa Auto Parts ($20.00 each side). If you order this part on line the numbers will be wrong for the parts you need. It is better to go talk to them in the store and tell them what you need. I found that out the hard way.
See how it is offset to one side?
Looks like this:
100_4022.jpg


First off you need to get the alignment checked to see how far off the camber is so you can buy the right off-set you need. (Sounds like you have and +/- 0.5* is within stock specs.) When you get the parts you need THROW THE DIRECTIONS AWAY!! They suck! Tells you the wrong way to do it. The ONLY good thing off of them is which way to install them to get + or - camber.
Second you need to find this tool. Its a 4 pronged socket. Looks like this:

100_4466.jpg

100_4465.jpg


I went to all the hardware stores and auto parts store to find one... no luck. I tracked down a Snap On truck and the guy found it for me but didn't have it in stock. He ordered it for me with 2 day air. Part was around $23 and shipping was $8.

Now take eveything apart: Brakes, Rotor, Hub, Pull the Alxe shafts and remove the tie rod on what ever side you are working on. You should have nothing but the knuckle left. I don't remember what the top nut was but I had that socket on hand. The bottom was a 33mm.. I know cuz I also had to get that socket extra.

Now that everything is taken off and loose. Bang crap out of the knucle downward. I used a 2 lb hammer and it took me about 10 to 15 hits to get it loose. NOW it a great time to see if you need new ball joints. One of mine was in GREAT shape... the other acted like an old joystick. There should be no play in them at all. Once you have this done look in the bottom hole from the under side or flip it over and look that way.. easier to do. You will see that you now need that 4 pronged socket. I tried other ways to remove it but.. right tool.. right job. The CORRECT way to remove it is tward the inside of the nuckle, Like this:

100_4025.jpg


"Back" the stock sleeve out and install the new thinner sleeve. Pop the Camber Kit in the bottom and give it a lil tap with a hammer to get it flush.

Now the FUN part... putting everything back together. Its a lil of a PITA but with an impact wrench it went a little bit easier. Slide the knuckle into place on both upper and lower ball joints and HOLD it in place with a clamp of some kind. I used my 4WD ball joint press kit (Harbor Frieght $30 on sale) and held it like this:

100_4020.jpg


The Camber Kit will slip out a little at the bottom as you can see in that pic. Here is a close up of what I am talking about:

100_4021.jpg


now here is when the impact really helps. Thread the nut (new nut if you got new ball joints) hand tight and then put the impact to it and tighten it up. I could not get the kit all the way flush but I did get the nut on tight enough to easily get the cotter pin back in the hole.

Now finsh putting everything back together and do the other side.

GO GET IT RE-ALIGNED AS YOUR TOE WILL BE OFF AGAIN!! I got the life time alignment from Firestone $140 and I have used it 6 times so far. Thats better then $60 a trip there don't you think?

I hope that helps you or some one else. I don't think I have enough pics for a full write up but if you have and questions feel free to ask.
 
Last edited:
Ok I forgot about how to fix your steering wheel...

Turn your key to the "on" position to unlock your steering wheel. Now on your drag link there is a threaded sleeve with 2 bolts on either side. 15 mm if I remember right. Losen those 2 bolts and turn the sleeve. Helps at this point to have some one inside looking at the wheel to tell you when it is straight. When you have it straight tighten the bolts back down and there you go.
 
xxmidianxx said:
Ok I forgot about how to fix your steering wheel...

Turn your key to the "on" position to unlock your steering wheel. Now on your drag link there is a threaded sleeve with 2 bolts on either side. 15 mm if I remember right. Losen those 2 bolts and turn the sleeve. Helps at this point to have some one inside looking at the wheel to tell you when it is straight. When you have it straight tighten the bolts back down and there you go.

great info thanks for all the help I can really use it. On the drag link is that sleeve up by the pitman arm that you turn for the staight wheel?
 
XJEEPER said:
Caster becomes an issue at 6" of lift with a HP D30, less with a Low Pinion D30, unless you run hubs or have a disco HP D30.

Problem lies with the delicate balance of enough caster so your rig will handle properly VS proper pinion angle to keep the spinning front driveshaft vibrations down to an accceptable level.

yeah I have 6.5 springs and 2 " spacers in the front so 8.5" give or take.
 
SOUTHTEXASXJ said:
great info thanks for all the help I can really use it. On the drag link is that sleeve up by the pitman arm that you turn for the staight wheel?

Why yes it is...
 
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