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will this lighting setup be ok on stock wiring?

I wouldn't trust the wiring with those. Just upgrade the harness. There are plenty of threads on the subject and web sites on how to make your own harness. It is rather easy to do aswell.
 
Your upgraded low beams will short out the stock wiring. The ground will definately fry when you switch from high to low beam because for a short instance both high and low are on at the same time.

Just make a new harness like magimerlin said and use the proper relays and terminals. It will make your life easier during the install and will be something you will never have to upgrade again.
 
You will enjoy the greater light.

Don't forget, find the headlight adjustment page on danielstern to help keep your lights where they need to be.

I "flashed" some kid after he passed me the other night with his high beams on. 100w will absolutely illuminate an interior just in front, it was like a photon bomb went off. On flat rural roads I can see a stop sign a mile off reflecting the light back. So I know I should be nice to avoid overdoing it with oncoming traffic. Low beams are just awesome, the cutoff is just below the trunk line on most vehicles, and the light is much whiter. I can see deer crossing the road at least a hundred feet further out.

I found shrink wrapping the terminal ends would help stop inadvertent shorts with all the relay terminals in close proximity. If you have access to the correct plugs, it would be more sanitary, but the biggest problem I had was trying to crimp 10ga wire to undersized terminals - watch the wire size on them to make it work properly.
 
thanks for the heads up! Im gonna check around the building here at work and see if i can find some spools of wire. that'll save some cash!
edit:
well it seems we have spools of 12g wire. Red, blk, and blue. However, its the kind of wire they use for wiring up homes and buildings. Will that work or do I need something else?
 
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Probably but there is a reason why most high end electronics use stranded wire. It conducts electricity better because "basically" the electrons have more paths to travel down. I know thats not technically correct and someone will correct me but I said basically. Anyways, the solid wire is harder to bend around stuff and it gets pretty tight when your trying to use an aftermarket plug for the back of an H4 bulb. You might as well get the good stuff because you will eventually need the wiring for something else, say an electric fan swap.
 
ninobrn99 said:
thanks for the heads up! Im gonna check around the building here at work and see if i can find some spools of wire. that'll save some cash!
edit:
well it seems we have spools of 12g wire. Red, blk, and blue. However, its the kind of wire they use for wiring up homes and buildings. Will that work or do I need something else?

1) Use stranded wire - it's easier to handle, more flexible, and more tolerant of vibration.

2) Most residential wiring is designed for residential "in-wall" environments - meaning it's not oil- or grease- or solvent-resistant.

Go to the hardware store, and pick up some 12/3 rubber-jacketed "SJOOW" wire. It's probably about the best stuff you can find for your application without going to a specialty house, I've been using it for a number of years. You'll have three wires in it - black, white, and green. I find it easiest to use the white for the full beam power, the green for the dip beam power, and the black for ground.
 
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