doinky72 said:
Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L
Has two lips instead of the stock single lip. Also if the crank has a bit of a groove or other erosion where the old seal touched it the double lip one can sort of straddle that area.
X2 on the one piece Felpro pan gasket.
here's a few other tips I copied from various threads around here:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
5-90
I don't usually use soap - when I do a rear main, the first thing I do is pour a small parts bin full of clean engine oil and throw the seal it.
You may want to inspect the sealing surface of the crank rather more thoroughly - use a fingernail to feel for a groove. If you can feel it, it will probably cause a leak.
As far as the seal lip, it's going to be fairly flimsy. There's not a lot of pressure behind that seal (and make sure you install it the right way around - the little "V" under the lip should be toward the INSIDE of the engine!) because most of the pressure will bleed off through the forward bearing gap. Granted, there's a little more there than there is behind an axle seal, but it's still not so much (try sealing a power steering box!)
I'm not sure of the utility of lubricating the seal, but I feel better doing it, and it's not caused me any trouble, so I see no reason to stop doing it. The clean oil you used to soak the seal can just be poured right into the engine...
5-90
this time i would like to use gasket sealer to glue it so it stays in place.should it be glued(using the "right stuff")to the block 1st?or to the pan?
Apply a thin bead to the engine side of the gasket, and stick it in place. Once it's up, apply a thin bead to the other side.
I find it helpful to have abour four studs in place to keep everything aligned while you're working - it saves wrestling. Valve cover studs for Small Block Chevvy will work just fine - you'll only need four (six if you really want...)
5-90
On getting the one piece seal to stay put so you have no movement while installing the pan. I never thought of Right Stuff.
I have used with great success the semi permanent Hi-Tack (yellow). You glue the engine side of seal, take the oil pan bolts and bolt the seal up fingertight overnight. Next day remove the bolts and install the oilpan....gasket wont go anywhere. Obviously this takes a bit longer, but i have no worries the seal will move before i get the pan secured in place.
John B,
I think talking about someone who shaved a bit off the seal on the edge of the block while trying to slide it in.
Get another. It has to be lubed very well. I used something called Syl Glide on mine. 5-90 soaks that upper seal in a small cup of motor oil for a long time
