View Full Version : painting
90xj06
August 25th, 2006, 06:53
alright my xj's paint has seen better days. but i don't want to have it professionally painted. so is there a way to paint it with lets say spray paint. or even better roll it on with a roller?:shocked: as long as it looks semi good and lasts i will be happy. right now its got a sunburn and its peeling.:sunshine:
swany
August 25th, 2006, 07:11
spray pint it, i did mine flat olive and it looks awesome will put pics on tuesday. plus it only cost $20
jeepinairman
August 25th, 2006, 07:13
I too spraybombed mine...lol.......od green...i like it..
my toyota buddy has a writeup on using a roller...and it has pics...looks AMAZING...be good if you dont konw how to use a gun and have the patienceto do it...seems like alot of work just to use a roller..but cheap and the results are amazing...i get the site and put it up on here later
90xj06
August 25th, 2006, 07:20
i want green to what brand and where did you get it?
RangerRick
August 25th, 2006, 08:56
Some auto paint stores can mix up your XJs' sock color and match its' fading to. Then they can put it into spay cans. They usually will mix as little as a pint which will fill about 4 spay cans. By matching your color from the start you won't have to deal with different door jam and under hood colors. Also, future paint chips won't show up as much.
jeepinairman
August 25th, 2006, 14:40
if you mean what paint i used.....i took the advice of TsizeXJ
and went to walmart and bought the Krylon stuff that is in the camo series...its the ultra flat Olive Drab green....stuff is THICK!!!! take your time and do as many coats as you can.......
what i did to help it out a little bit is took it down to primer first but i HAD too you shouldnt have too.....if you still have most of the stock paint...just rough it up a bit..
i did one coat primer....sanded it......2 coats OD Green paint....sanding in between..then i put on a coat of the SATIN clear in a car and while it was still tacky one more coat of green ...made it a lil harder but still kept the od look.....hope it keeps..lol..i like it....
if i had took more time it would have looked better but.....i really am not concerned with it being pristine cause its going to get scratched all to crap anyhow....
MoochsXJ
August 25th, 2006, 15:15
Prep work is the key, I've been slowly prepping my MJ for paint, the more time you take making sure you've got something nice to spary onto, the nicer it'll look in the end.
swany
August 25th, 2006, 15:25
i just went to walmart and bought 12 cans of krylon flat olive green. then spent the day preping and sanding
90xj06
August 25th, 2006, 15:44
ok thats sounds good i like walmart
jeepinairman
September 1st, 2006, 09:48
alright...it took me a few days but i found that write up on how to paint with a roller...
you NEED to go read this.....its really long but has very good pics and just a cool write up all around
wish i had time to do this.......
enjoy
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=2348049&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=de83235d3233c39230432b6d5fe08df8
rocklandxjer
September 1st, 2006, 09:51
herc it, the whole thing
lol
no but seriously ive seen it done on a huge bronco, it looked pretty sweet black with green offset
90xj06
September 1st, 2006, 11:48
i really think im going to do it. :) yay its going to be so much better that mucky red burgundy peely crap.
and i may try this on my classic if it comes out good enough.
jeepinairman
September 1st, 2006, 13:28
try the herculiner or try the roller write up????
non-stick
September 1st, 2006, 13:45
You can get Martin Seynor(sp) enamel from most well stocked NAPAs in a host of colors, I chose factory Sterling Silver Metalic (not original, but same vintage and cooler for the A/C). A gallon with reducer and hardener ran me around $200. I did the prep work by sanding with a DA at 150 grit in the driveway and drove it over to a buddy's. Removed everything I could and taped the rest with quality masking tape, sprayed the bare spots with primer/sealer and then primed the whole thing. Sanded with 600 after the primer dried and shot the whole thing, about 4 coats to get the metalic to settle right, all in one afternoon.
This was done in a carport on a nice day (painting right around 4:00 PM) by two amatures. Granted we had professioanl tools and materials, but we aren't talking show quality here. I went enamel purely for durability. A true automotive paint will stand up much better to the trail wear than rattle can will, and if I want to make it look pretty I can color sand or compound it out without worrying about going thru to the old paint.
The finished product
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/non-stick/Jeep/a77f9688.jpg
And I do wheel it. In fact I sctached it all up the following weekend on some narrow trails. Still shines and looks good without anything more than soapy water.
HTH
Oizarod115
September 1st, 2006, 17:32
my brother and i painted his XJ
used rustoleum flat camoflauge paints the first time, and he did it again with flat black.
hand sanded off the clear and taped the windows.
never really faded
gjxj
September 5th, 2006, 05:07
Tip for using rattle cans: do not even try to re-use a partly used can. If you use half a can, turn it upside down to blow the nozzle clean then mark it 'patio furniture only' - you will never get those cheap plastic nozzles clean enough to get a auto body quality finish out of it.
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