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Cleaning the Rockers

XJ Stryker

XJ Stryker

WHO DAT!
Location
Smiths Station, Al
I pulled my valve cover and have started cleaning it

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I have removed all the tubes and brackets

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I am looking for the best way to clean the bottom part of this valve with out all the gunk draining into the block. I am planning on pulling the oil pan once i get done with this so I just want to know what will CLEAN super good but not hurt the engine once i am done. ANd any ideas on cleaning this.
 
Just out of curiosity how many miles was on it and what oil was being used? As far as preventing the sludge from going down into the engine what about putting ear plugs in the oil drain back ports of the head? Never tried it but I imagine it would plug them and allow you to use a shop vac to suck the loose crap out of there.
 
Looking down in the hole the ear plugs may be to big but you are in the ball park of a great idea. I will try and find something to fill it.

the mileage is 180,000 on a 87 renix engine.

I just bought it in Feb. So i am still restoring it.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=945280

I have no clue what the prior owner used from what it looks like he used 89/90 lol. But the oil came out like water so i assume it hasnt been changed in a LONG time. Maybe 10,000 miles between oil changes or something I don't know.
 
put a quart of tranny fluid (type F seems to work best) in with some fresh oil and a new high capacity filter and run it for 30 minutes or so after it gets up to operating temp and then drain the oil and change the filter. it is a old school way of cleaning up the internals and will hopefully get all the crud and junk your scraper cant get to. From the looks of it you may want to do it a couple times after you get some miles on it again.
 
Hmmmm Tranny fluid. I wouldn't have thought of it. So it has good break apart cleaning agents. I got Plenty of Dextron 3 that i use in the AW4 will that work or just Type F. Gonna be kinda pricey buying high flow filters and oil but if it is the best way then i can suck it up. Would a good carb cleaner work for the initilal cleaning?
 
Thanks gerr. So this is my plan. I am gonna find something to plug the holes. Buy a couple cans of carb cleaner. Clean as much as i can with a tooth brush shop vac out all the residue. Reinstall valve cover and insert quart dextron 3 and my rotella. purchase high flow oil filter. Run half hour. Change filter drain insert my rotella with another filter. Run for a hundred or so miles. rinse and repeat. Hopefully i interpretted everything properly.
 
Sounds good to me. The reason Type F is usually recommended is b/c it has the most detergents vs. other ATFs....

Good luck!
 
On the initial cleaning, use a shop vac and scraper TOGETHER, use the crevice tool, the long thin one, work one area at a time, stiff parts brush too, those long round ones. Keep the nozzle within a half inch of your tool. I don't think I would drive it with ATF in there, even if it's only a quart. I've also seen old timers use a quart of kerosene, run it for 15 or 20 minutes then drain and change the oil and filter, for that I would use the cheapest Frams I could find, it's a good use for them. Once you get a couple of cleaning cycles thru and put running oil and filter in watch the dipstick, once it gets dirty swap the filter, what you don't want is the bypass to kick in and cycle chunks thru. If you see ANY drop in oil pressure DROP THE PAN and clean the oil pump pickup out before you starve the bearings. The other way is to totally soak the engine with kerosene and scrub it but drop the pan and put a big catch basin under it.
 
RichP said:
On the initial cleaning, use a shop vac and scraper TOGETHER, use the crevice tool, the long thin one, work one area at a time, stiff parts brush too, those long round ones. Keep the nozzle within a half inch of your tool. I don't think I would drive it with ATF in there, even if it's only a quart. I've also seen old timers use a quart of kerosene, run it for 15 or 20 minutes then drain and change the oil and filter, for that I would use the cheapest Frams I could find, it's a good use for them. Once you get a couple of cleaning cycles thru and put running oil and filter in watch the dipstick, once it gets dirty swap the filter, what you don't want is the bypass to kick in and cycle chunks thru. If you see ANY drop in oil pressure DROP THE PAN and clean the oil pump pickup out before you starve the bearings. The other way is to totally soak the engine with kerosene and scrub it but drop the pan and put a big catch basin under it.
Click to expand...


Thanks, I may look in to the kerosene. I had a bad feeling the tranny fluid would eat the seal too quick then i will have leaks everywhere. I have NO leaks underneath this vehicle now. I just pulled the valve cover cause i was bored and i was only running at 20 psi. I think i will drop the oil pan also. Just for good measure. As for pulling the Heads that is getting beyond my technical experience. I would love to help someone do it but there are no people close to me that will assist for beer. lol.

Thanks for your input. I just finished cleaning all 12 push rods and rockers and stuff. That was a job in itself. Since i am getting some help any one know the exact torque specs on those 13mm bolts I took off the rockers. I know the valve cover is 55in lbs.

Thanks
 
So you dont have any help HUH. :bs:
 
XJ Stryker said:
Well i didn't know you had the expertise and know how to pull the head off... Thanks for the help in cleaning this stuff up though pal. I owe you a six pack on that.
Click to expand...

12 pack.:looser:
 
XJ Stryker said:
As long as i can drink half
Click to expand...

Will the wifey let you?:dunno:
 
Wow-we finally have a good application for a Fram filter. There was not any sludge/crud on the 94 head w/ 122k that I took apart--I'm sure many would've protested the dismantling of one in such good condition.
 
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