Oxidation Wax

Not sure exactly where this thread goes so I know it will be moved to the right area. My question is what wax do you recommend or have used for oxidized paint. My roof and hood are getting pretty bad and I have tried tr-3 resin glaze it worked ok but took a grip of coats to even get a shine. Any other suggestions ......

polishing compound and a buffer will help heaps....of course, you're just eating away the clearcoat/paint until the oxidation is gone...but hey, that's what rattle cans are for right? =)

tr3 is probably the best you can do- but if you don't immediately cover it with a good wax w/uv blockers it's going to oxidize again because then you have no protection at all. the glaze is just a glaze, not a protectant.

I used Mother's California Gold on my '74 Dodge Dart, it took a little elbow grease but it took the oxidization right off and shined it up nicely. I think any natural caranuba wax will do that, though.



If you are talking about clear coat failure though, that's a completely different story and your only option is to repaint the car. See this link:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20411

I just use a garden hose on my jeep...

cds36 said:

Not sure exactly where this thread goes so I know it will be moved to the right area. My question is what wax do you recommend or have used for oxidized paint. My roof and hood are getting pretty bad and I have tried tr-3 resin glaze it worked ok but took a grip of coats to even get a shine. Any other suggestions ......

Click to expand...

I try to drive thru as many mudd pits as I can, gives it that earthy tone look.

Time for the Camo paint or OD. I'm thinking Krylon RTA9223 for mine. Clear coat left it years ago.

Clean it with a good cleaner to get all the wax off then use a clay bar, then rewax it with a good carnuba.

If it's clear coat failure - and that's what most of us have - then it's repaint or let it rust.

You don't have to spend $3000 to $5000 to do it. You don't have to buy a compressor, gun, and $100's of dollars of paint to fix it. You can put some sweat equity in it sanding, and use a smooth 6" roller and Rustoleum.

Search for "$50 dollar paint job" here and on moparforums for a more complete explanation, but basically you wet sand at 600 grit, primer only the bare metal, and roller coat, with color sanding between. It's how cars were painted before spray equipment (they used BRUSHES,) and how cars are sanded for the show circuit.

The technique has it's detractors, but they don't make money on it if you do it this way . . .

PS You can also clear coat over it again if you like the look.