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Oil change ?

E

Ernrok

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NJ
:wow: OK I just changed my oil. I used Castrol GTX High mile 10w40 and a purolator filter, Now I have what may be chank noise. Not super loud, but it's there and it wasn't before. This is the first time i changed it. When I bought it the oil was clean. so I drove it for about 4000 miles on it. And the oil pressure is over 40lbs when it used to be 30 at start up then dropped to 20. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Ernrok
 
IF the symptoms started immediately after changing your oil, pop on a new oil filter and see if that makes any difference. Wouldn't be the oil and may not be filter related but it's something simple and cheap that you can start with.
 
I have always ran castrol untill one day I caught mobil clean 5000 on sale and ran that.My lifters starting ticking more than usual.Since then I have switch to rotella 5-30 synthetic and all is good but I have always ran purolator filters.
 
I saw the Rotella 15w40 but though it would be to heavey. Oh BTW update started her up and drove about 5 to6 miles. I could not here the noise and the pressure went down after the engine warmed up to a little over 30psi.
I forgot to mention that the oil that came out was very thin or light. It poured out like water.
Ernrok.
 
Is there something about Rotella I should know about? My last form of transpo was a '91 BMW, BMW guys swear by Castrol. Never have I seen people recommend Rotella until I got onto a Jeep forum.
 
97XJ Jeeper said:
it has the ZDDP levels that we need for our flat tappet engines. I use it. Start reading :D
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=943013
Click to expand...

Man, I read through that post and now I have a headache!

I run M1 10-30(full syn)in my both of my 96 XJ's for a while with no issues, I ran Castrol (dino) in my 90 w/new engine untill Friday I switched to M1 10-30(full syn), it now runs a little noisy?

I have never had an issue with synthetic oils but it seems there may be another alternative that may be better for the flat tappet 4.0.

I guess i will switch to M1 High Mileage on everything, that seems to be a good all-round oil.
 
There are two or 3 good threads out there about oil/ZDDP levels. One or all of them lists oils that have acceptable ZDDP levels.

Or you could switch to roller rockers :D
 
xjtrailrider said:
I run M1 10-30(full syn)in my both of my 96 XJ's for a while with no issues, I ran Castrol (dino) in my 90 w/new engine untill Friday I switched to M1 10-30(full syn), it now runs a little noisy?
Click to expand...

That's strange.....I switched to M1 3 years ago and noticed that my engine got a lot quieter...especially when cold. No problems in either Jeep....but when I switched the Chevy over to it.....boy was that a mistake.
 
UNCC_99XJ said:
That's strange.....I switched to M1 3 years ago and noticed that my engine got a lot quieter...especially when cold. No problems in either Jeep....but when I switched the Chevy over to it.....boy was that a mistake.
Click to expand...

Well my take on that is the newness of the engine. It only has 14k since the rebuild. Mybe it just hasn't broken in all the way.

The local engine shop that rebuilt the engine gave me 6 qts of Pennzoil straght 50 wt racing oil with the engine and told me after 2k to change it and go with my favorite dino oil for the first 12k then after that whatever I wanted to run. I called them Friday am to see if it would be ok(and wouldn't void my 2 year warranty on the engine) to go with M1 syn. The guy who built the engine said it shouldn't matter and would not void the warranty.

I'm switching to something else next change.
 
Ernrok said:
:wow: OK I just changed my oil. I used Castrol GTX High mile 10w40 and a purolator filter, Now I have what may be chank noise. Not super loud, but it's there and it wasn't before. This is the first time i changed it. When I bought it the oil was clean. so I drove it for about 4000 miles on it. And the oil pressure is over 40lbs when it used to be 30 at start up then dropped to 20. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Ernrok
Click to expand...

I think I have the same issue with my 1998. I've used Pensoil straight 30 from the first oil change. After a Jiffy Lube oil change I noticed a slight tapping noise. I went back and asked them if they had used 10w30, they said they didn't know, but they switched it to straight 30 no charge. The tapping noise stopped. That was about 100k miles ago and I haven't heard it since.

I live in Houston, so I really don't need cold weather performance in my oil, so straight 30 is great for me.
 
xjtrailrider said:
Man, I read through that post and now I have a headache!

I run M1 10-30(full syn)in my both of my 96 XJ's for a while with no issues, I ran Castrol (dino) in my 90 w/new engine untill Friday I switched to M1 10-30(full syn), it now runs a little noisy?

I have never had an issue with synthetic oils but it seems there may be another alternative that may be better for the flat tappet 4.0.

I guess i will switch to M1 High Mileage on everything, that seems to be a good all-round oil.
Click to expand...

Headache? I could not even finish reading it. Now I'm just confused.
Well like I stated the ending noise is gone but the higher oil pressure has me worried. As for full syn oil...Years ago I changed from dino to M1 in a Lincoln Mark7 and about a year later it had leaks from the rear main, oil pan, valve cover.
Well I think you get the idea. 99 XJ 4.0 114.500 miles.
Ernrok
 
UNCC_99XJ said:
That's strange.....I switched to M1 3 years ago and noticed that my engine got a lot quieter...especially when cold. No problems in either Jeep....but when I switched the Chevy over to it.....boy was that a mistake.
Click to expand...

I run M1 in my DD impala, with no negative issue, only good things. Older engines are going to leak, and synthetic oil will just quicken the leaks. I used royal purple XPR in a chevy 383 and it started a major rear seal leak a few weekends later. I used Amsoil in a Porsche 911 carrera (15 quarts, aircooled) and it ended up costing me over 20 hours and $300 in parts to fix a half dozen leaks from the oil cooler to most all of the engine seals.

Both my XJ's run on M1 high millage and a M1 filter, with great results. But both have newer rear main seals, and pan gaskets.
 
muckleroy said:
I think I have the same issue with my 1998. I've used Pensoil straight 30 from the first oil change. After a Jiffy Lube oil change I noticed a slight tapping noise. I went back and asked them if they had used 10w30, they said they didn't know, but they switched it to straight 30 no charge. The tapping noise stopped. That was about 100k miles ago and I haven't heard it since.

I live in Houston, so I really don't need cold weather performance in my oil, so straight 30 is great for me.
Click to expand...


IF they really used the same kind of oil the first time, you wouldn't notice a difference between a SAE 30 and a 10w-30... Like you said, being in Houston the temp is high enough that the cold weather additive offers no advantages. But a 30w is a 30w oil.... a 10w-30 and a SAE 30 work exactly the same way at operating temperatures. The difference is they probably put some store brand in the first time.
 
Rotella T 15W40 here. Runs like a champ.
 
BillBraski said:
I run M1 in my DD impala, with no negative issue, only good things. Older engines are going to leak, and synthetic oil will just quicken the leaks. I used royal purple XPR in a chevy 383 and it started a major rear seal leak a few weekends later. I used Amsoil in a Porsche 911 carrera (15 quarts, aircooled) and it ended up costing me over 20 hours and $300 in parts to fix a half dozen leaks from the oil cooler to most all of the engine seals.

Both my XJ's run on M1 high millage and a M1 filter, with great results. But both have newer rear main seals, and pan gaskets.
Click to expand...


This isn't a problem with the synthetic oil... Its a problem with the engine. Synthetic oils generally have higher cleaning properties in their additive packages. Therefore they clean out the garbage that was left behind by the previous oils. The leaks already existed when you put the synthetics in.. Its just they were clogged with the previous oil's leftovers...
 
w_howey said:
This isn't a problem with the synthetic oil... Its a problem with the engine. Synthetic oils generally have higher cleaning properties in their additive packages. Therefore they clean out the garbage that was left behind by the previous oils. The leaks already existed when you put the synthetics in.. Its just they were clogged with the previous oil's leftovers...
Click to expand...


Thanks for the lesson :laugh:. I don't need a run down on the pro & cons of synthetic oils, the results speak for themselves.

I was responding to UNCC_99XJ.
 
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