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Replacing Head Gasket

wacky

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I have the Factory Service Manual.
I have ordered:

1 Fel-pro gasket kit
1 set of head bolts
1 ex/in manifold gasket
1 exhaust/intake bolts

What else do you suggest?

Are there any tips/tricks on this procedure that I should be aware of that will save me hours of cussing and busted knuckles?
 
just did mine before Christmas, the gasket kit from felpro comes with everything you need gasket wise.
head, intake/exhaust, t-stat, valve cover... even valve stem seals
one thing I noticed tho, after having to order new head gasket, was the Victor Reinz gasket seemed of much better quality. That's my thoughts, from somoene who has never done the job before and knows nothing of what a head gasket should be.

Either way, the gasket kit should have everything you need, with the head bolts, and other bolts you should be set. May want to make sure you have a socket that will fit the head bolts tho, deep well 12 sided 13mm I think... don't quote me on that.
 
Did you already get a couple of fuel line o-ring sets (quick disconnects)? Both times I did this job I had to order them and it took about three days to come in.
How about a new freeze out plug for the back of the head?
As for tips, spray everything real good a few days before. The studs for the manifolds are prone to snapping off. And get someone with loooong skinny arms (like mine) to reach up from underneath to get the lower manifold bolts/nuts. Or, if you have a hoist, pull the head and manifolds together (I've done this) and work on it on your bench.
 
Take the head off the block with the intake / exhaust manifolds still attached. Then do the same when re-assembling. Its heavier, but it saves time, and its way way easier to get the proper torque on the intake / exhaust nuts and bolts.

Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes to at least 110 ft #'s.

Pick up some copper RTV for the exhaust manifold gasket also. Apply a THIN layer around the ports on both sides. Works great!

Make sure that you have some high temp thread sealant for the head bolt that drops down into the area above the water pump.

5-90 suggests using a certain high temp loctite on the intake / exhaust bolts and studs. I would agree. I didnt do this job, but it took about a week for them to start backing off. The torque on them is not enough IMO... but its what the FSM says!

I would agree about the Victor Reinz gasket. It just looks better then the felpro. I actually damaged my felpro when i did this job, so i went to NAPA and got the Victor.

Its an easy job in reality.

Oh read my thread well.. it will help you:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=933960
 
Last edited:
Muad'Dib said:
Take the head off the block with the intake / exhaust manifolds still attached. Then do the same when re-assembling. Its heavier, but it saves time, and its way way easier to get the proper torque on the intake / exhaust nuts and bolts.

Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes to at least 110 ft #'s.

Pick up some copper RTV for the exhaust manifold gasket also. Apply a THIN layer around the ports on both sides. Works great!

Make sure that you have some high temp thread sealant for the head bolt that drops down into the area above the water pump.

5-90 suggests using a certain high temp loctite on the intake / exhaust bolts and studs. I would agree. I didnt do this job, but it took about a week for them to start backing off. The torque on them is not enough IMO... but its what the FSM says!

I would agree about the Victor Reinz gasket. It just looks better then the felpro. I actually damaged my felpro when i did this job, so i went to NAPA and got the Victor.

Its an easy job in reality.

Oh read my thread well.. it will help you:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=933960

The manifold gasket being in common between the intake and exhaust (and dry) just hit all the ports with the RTV copper. It's easier, and seals better. A thin layer is enough.

A brass wire wheel or Scotch-Brite disc will clean up the surfaces handily.

The Loc-Tite you're thinking of is #272 (or equivalent.) Nothing else will hold up to the heat. If you can't get #272, don't use anything.

Make sure you reuse the little dish-shaped washers on the manifold screws - they're there for a reason!

The only sealant you'll need for the head gasket job is some PTFE "pipe dope" for the driver's side front cylinder head screw. It protrudes into the water jacket, and should only be torqued to 100 pound-feet.

For torquing, you start at the passenger side centre and work outwards in a clockwise spiral (PS centre, DS centre, and clockwise from there.) Work in stages - I'll usually do 50 pound-feet, 75 pound-feet, 110/100 pound-feet, and recheck.

You'll find it easier to set the head in place if you get some 1/2"-13 threaded rod, and cut two 6" long sticks of it. Screw into opposite corners (loosely) and set the gasket on, then the head. Start the centre screws with your fingers, remove the threaded rod, and then get to work. Believe me, it helps...

If you need extra clearance for the rear cylinder head screws (you usually do,) unbolt the transmission mount cushion from the crossmember and lift the end of it with a floor jack - this tilts the engine forward.

Get a 9/16" "flex" socket for the manifold screws, it will be a huge timesaver (the extra inch of clearance you get over the socket/universal joint combination is very handy on the lower back manifold screws...)
 
5-90 said:
The Loc-Tite you're thinking of is #272 (or equivalent.) Nothing else will hold up to the heat. If you can't get #272, don't use anything.

Thanks for that clarification.. I didnt do this when i did my whole fiasco, and now im wishing i would have ordered the stuff and did it. As i stated above, it only took about a week for a couple bolts to start backing out.

5-90 said:
You'll find it easier to set the head in place if you get some 1/2"-13 threaded rod, and cut two 6" long sticks of it. Screw into opposite corners (loosely) and set the gasket on, then the head. Start the centre screws with your fingers, remove the threaded rod, and then get to work. Believe me, it helps...

I wouldnt recommend this per sey... I tried it like this due to 5-90's advise (just as he is now giving it to you), and the threaded rod was just way way too long. I found using about 3" of threaded rod is enough, with only 2" MAX protruding from the top of the head. Make "slits" in the rod at the ends that will be facing away from the block's surface. That way once you have the head lined up and on, you can use a standard screw driver to loosen them up. Then just use a magnetic pick-up tool to retreive them. I used 4 total. Two almost all the way to the firewall, and two up front. Works fantastic... and i actually owe it to 5-90 for help with this.

5-90 said:
If you need extra clearance for the rear cylinder head screws (you usually do,) unbolt the transmission mount cushion from the crossmember and lift the end of it with a floor jack - this tilts the engine forward.

I didnt need the extra clearance. Some may... good advise either way.
 
Muad'Dib said:
Thanks for that clarification.. I didnt do this when i did my whole fiasco, and now im wishing i would have ordered the stuff and did it. As i stated above, it only took about a week for a couple bolts to start backing out.



I wouldnt recommend this per sey... I tried it like this due to 5-90's advise (just as he is now giving it to you), and the threaded rod was just way way too long. I found using about 3" of threaded rod is enough, with only 2" MAX protruding from the top of the head. Make "slits" in the rod at the ends that will be facing away from the block's surface. That way once you have the head lined up and on, you can use a standard screw driver to loosen them up. Then just use a magnetic pick-up tool to retreive them. I used 4 total. Two almost all the way to the firewall, and two up front. Works fantastic... and i actually owe it to 5-90 for help with this.



I didnt need the extra clearance. Some may... good advise either way.

Most of the stuff I offer up isn't set in stone (Hell, I use old pushrods...) so feel free to modify it as necessary. If I specify a sealant or something like that, then use that one - but if it's a measurement where I qualify with "about" or "near" - go ahead and change it if you need to. You can also use different holes - the idea is that you have two points to locate the thing so it stays put while you get screws started.

If you lose the little dish-shaped washers, you can use Belleville spring washers - but not flat washers! They won't work in this application (why? Because you're clamping aluminum and iron parts, and the two materials expand differently. You'll back out the screws faster that way...)

If you haven't "burned through" any of the gasket ports, you can remove the screws one at a time and apply #272 to them and retorque without incident.
 
OOPS... One thing i missed:

beakie said:
Either way, the gasket kit should have everything you need, with the head bolts, and other bolts you should be set. May want to make sure you have a socket that will fit the head bolts tho, deep well 12 sided 13mm I think... don't quote me on that.

Im not sure when they changed head bolts, but ive seen this info everywhere.. Its just plainly incorrect for me.

I just wish i could remember what size they ACTUALLY were ...

Oh i have a 90 RENIX... so im not sure if the head bolts changed when they changed to the HO from the RENIX...
 
The Renix 89 head bolts use a 16 mm, 6 point socket. I noticed that Muad'Dib posted using 5/8" 6 point sockets on his 90???

I was looking for an another thread to ask this next question, but this thread will do.

I took the 89 head off and had the local machine shop do their thing. I noticed a couple of curious things when I got it back today. One was it looked too clean. Turns out they painted (aluminum zinc color) it before reinstalling the valves. I asked them how much they took off the head, but they said they did not know exactly. He did say "not a lot". This is an old established racing head shop too! I was not impressed.

Anyway, I followed 5-90s suggestions and pulled the lifter rods (and kept them in order in a box), and I reinstalled the rockers in the their original locations on the head. Took the head to the shop, but when I got the head back the rocker arms, bolts, etc where all loose in box. :scared:So now I have no idea which ones went where.

Is this a problem???? What should I do????


Also I am planning to try and do some sludge cleaning - removal of sludge build up from the top of the 3 front lifters, with out disturbing the lifters. I am thinking of using some MMO and a long handle manual brush or screw driver maybe, and a wet/dry vac to loosen and suck the sludge out of there. Any comments on this plan????

Muad'Dib,

I am thinking of using the locator studs on the front and middle of the block only, leaving room for the rear of the head to go into the tunnel at deep angle, front of the head being the highest, then lower the head at the front side onto the locator studs. Also I had to raise and duct tape :laugh3: the drivers side rear head bolt to the head and remove them together on this 89, there was no way to remove that head bolt (oops, head screw!, LOL) first, short of droping the engine on the driveway. I am thinking of going back in the same way. What do you think?

Oh, We man handled it coming out, and got real lucky that we did not damage several parts (O2 sensor.....), so I am packing up the engine hoist and taking to the house for the reinstall.


Muad'Dib said:
OOPS... One thing i missed:



Im not sure when they changed head bolts, but ive seen this info everywhere.. Its just plainly incorrect for me.

I just wish i could remember what size they ACTUALLY were ...

Oh i have a 90 RENIX... so im not sure if the head bolts changed when they changed to the HO from the RENIX...
 
Last edited:
Ecomike said:
The Renix 89 head bolts use a 16 mm socket. I noticed that Muad'Dib posted using 5/8" 6 point sockets on his 90???

I was looking for an another thread to ask this next question, but this thread will do.

I took the 89 head off and had the local machine shop do their thing. I noticed a couple of curious things when I got it back today. One was it looked too clean. Turns out they painted (aluminum zinc color) it before reinstalling the valves. I asked them how much they took off the head, but they said they did not know exactly. He did say not alot. This is an old established racing head shop too! I was not impressed.

Anyway, I followed 5-90s suggestions and pulled the lifter rods (and kept them in order in a box), and I reinstalled the rockers in the their original locations on the head. Tookt the head to the shop, but when I got the head back the rocker arms, bolts, etc where all loose in box. So now I have no idea which ones went where.

Is this a problem???? What should I do????


Also I am planning to try and do some sludge cleaning - removal of sludge build up from the top of the 3 front lifters, with out disturbing the lifters. I am thinking of using some MMO and a brush and wet/dry vac to loosen and suck the sludge out of there. Any comments on this plan????


Theoretically, you can mix around rockers and pushrods without any trouble. Practically - if I'm going to send the head to the machine shop, I just tag all the parts (since they're going to take them off anyhow) and stow them in a box on my shelf. That way, you know where they are, you know where they're supposed to go, and you don't have to worry about them getting mixed up. As I said, it shouldn't be a problem - but I'm cranky.

You can suck sludge out with the work-vac, or you can just loosen it up and flush it down into the oil sump. On jobs where I have to "break the oil seal" (valve cover, head gasket, front main, timing gasket - anything where dropping the pan isn't mandatory) the oil change is actually the last thing I do - that allows me to blow whatever down into the sump, and most (if not all) of it will drain out when I drain the oil.

Apart from that, sounds like you're in good shape. To make things easier on yourself, if you decide to pull the lifters to clean the bores - just pull/clean one at a time. Mixing the lifters up is something that I know will wreck parts (shreds a bumpstick in short order...) so it's something you want to make sure to get right...
 
Thats good news, thanks.

Now while I still have the head off, should I check or do anything else, like inspect the cylinder walls? If so what do I do and how?

The engine ran good, entire jeep, 89 only has 114,000 miles on it. It did not use oil, or burn oil that i know of, but I only put 20 miles on it since I bought it. Just had a rough idle and the blown head gasket between 4 and 5. Oil and antifreeze were OK, running temp was OK. It had just past the emissions tests in Texas a week before the head gasket gave out.
 
napa went from victor to felpro, falling in with the rest of everyone. i sling at carquest and we still sell victor reinz. most of the stores stock the HS5713X (91-95) and the HS5713Y (96+). comes with the .041" head gasket.
 
Ecomike said:
Thats good news, thanks.

Now while I still have the head off, should I check or do anything else, like inspect the cylinder walls? If so what do I do and how?

The engine ran good, entire jeep, 89 only has 114,000 miles on it. It did not use oil, or burn oil that i know of, but I only put 20 miles on it since I bought it. Just had a rough idle and the blown head gasket between 4 and 5. Oil and antifreeze were OK, running temp was OK. It had just past the emissions tests in Texas a week before the head gasket gave out.

A quick visual check of the bores should prove useful. Run the piston to the bottom of the stroke, and eyeball the bore - any flaws that would be of concern would be obvious. Also, feel for a definite "ridge" at the top of the cylinder - you can use a fingernail for this. You will probably feel a slight ridge - anything thicker than, say, a bit of paper (comes out to be .003-.004" or so) and you should start thinking about a re-bore. However, you're working on a RENIX - in my 1987, when I lost the oil pump (at ~220Kmiles!) I only had a ridge that was .0005" high on one side, and I had to measure to find that! So, it's not likely that you'll have to do anything but maybe hone out the cylinders to break the glaze, but that would require a re-ring, and you'll have to pull the oil pan so you can pull the pistons and rods (you can leave the crank in place, just cover the journal you're working on with a clean shop rag and flush the crankpin when you take the rag off. Use a clean rag on each crankpin!)

For visual inspections, I do find it handy to have a small, very bright flashlight, as it helps to focus your attention. It also makes flaws that much more obvious. That's why you'll hear me rabbit on about my SureFire G2 - about three times as bright as my 3D Mag, and it fits almost entirely inside my fist. Well worth the thirty-five bucks, I think.
 
Ecomike said:
The Renix 89 head bolts use a 16 mm, 6 point socket. I noticed that Muad'Dib posted using 5/8" 6 point sockets on his 90???

I was looking for an another thread to ask this next question, but this thread will do.

I took the 89 head off and had the local machine shop do their thing. I noticed a couple of curious things when I got it back today. One was it looked too clean. Turns out they painted (aluminum zinc color) it before reinstalling the valves. I asked them how much they took off the head, but they said they did not know exactly. He did say "not a lot". This is an old established racing head shop too! I was not impressed.

Anyway, I followed 5-90s suggestions and pulled the lifter rods (and kept them in order in a box), and I reinstalled the rockers in the their original locations on the head. Took the head to the shop, but when I got the head back the rocker arms, bolts, etc where all loose in box. :scared:So now I have no idea which ones went where.

Is this a problem???? What should I do????


Also I am planning to try and do some sludge cleaning - removal of sludge build up from the top of the 3 front lifters, with out disturbing the lifters. I am thinking of using some MMO and a long handle manual brush or screw driver maybe, and a wet/dry vac to loosen and suck the sludge out of there. Any comments on this plan????

Muad'Dib,

I am thinking of using the locator studs on the front and middle of the block only, leaving room for the rear of the head to go into the tunnel at deep angle, front of the head being the highest, then lower the head at the front side onto the locator studs. Also I had to raise and duct tape :laugh3: the drivers side rear head bolt to the head and remove them together on this 89, there was no way to remove that head bolt (oops, head screw!, LOL) first, short of droping the engine on the driveway. I am thinking of going back in the same way. What do you think?

Oh, We man handled it coming out, and got real lucky that we did not damage several parts (O2 sensor.....), so I am packing up the engine hoist and taking to the house for the reinstall.

Arent 16mm and 5/8" very close to each other? I dont remember what i used... where did you find where i said what size?

OOPS nevermind i see where i said it:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=243676437&postcount=52

The socket i used (apparently 5/8) worked perfectly for me, so one of us used the wrong ones! Im betting it was me!!

Anyway, about what you said about the rear head bolt, thanks for bringing that up! I totally forgot about that. I had to leave it in the head and i used electrical tape to hold it up and out of the way so that when reinstalling the head it wouldnt get in the way. I wrapped the tape around the bolts shaft a few times where it seemed to hold it high enough to still clear the bottom of the head. That worked just fine for me, so i would assume it would be the same with duct tape!
 
Odd, but the ridge is not uniform. It is thinest on the drives side and rear side, and thickest on the front and passenger sides, in general. Cyl #1 is the worst, on the drivers side it is getting close to the thickness of a piece of paper, but not quite there, on the front passenger side it is about the thickness of a paper business card, but not quite, maybe half way between 20# copier paper and business card stock paper. I am not sure yet how much of the ridge is base metal, and how much is hard carbon. Still have some cleaning to do.

I see signs (light orange color, but no real rust) that coolant may have just been starting to get to cylinder #6, and there was mild, fresh, flash rust in the head bolt holes between #4 and #5 only.

The cylinder walls look great, but I have not turned the crank yet to get a complete look see. Probaly clean and vac out the remaining junk off and out of the block saturday, spray some more oil in on the walls and pistons, and then turn the crank for a final look see.


5-90 said:
A quick visual check of the bores should prove useful. Run the piston to the bottom of the stroke, and eyeball the bore - any flaws that would be of concern would be obvious. Also, feel for a definite "ridge" at the top of the cylinder - you can use a fingernail for this. You will probably feel a slight ridge - anything thicker than, say, a bit of paper (comes out to be .003-.004" or so) and you should start thinking about a re-bore. However, you're working on a RENIX - in my 1987, when I lost the oil pump (at ~220Kmiles!) I only had a ridge that was .0005" high on one side, and I had to measure to find that! So, it's not likely that you'll have to do anything but maybe hone out the cylinders to break the glaze, but that would require a re-ring, and you'll have to pull the oil pan so you can pull the pistons and rods (you can leave the crank in place, just cover the journal you're working on with a clean shop rag and flush the crankpin when you take the rag off. Use a clean rag on each crankpin!)

For visual inspections, I do find it handy to have a small, very bright flashlight, as it helps to focus your attention. It also makes flaws that much more obvious. That's why you'll hear me rabbit on about my SureFire G2 - about three times as bright as my 3D Mag, and it fits almost entirely inside my fist. Well worth the thirty-five bucks, I think.
 
Ecomike said:
Odd, but the ridge is not uniform. It is thinest on the drives side and rear side, and thickest on the front and passenger sides, in general. Cyl #1 is the worst, on the drivers side it is getting close to the thickness of a piece of paper, but not quite there, on the front passenger side it is about the thickness of a paper business card, but not quite, maybe half way between 20# copier paper and business card stock paper. I am not sure yet how much of the ridge is base metal, and how much is hard carbon. Still have some cleaning to do.

I see signs (light orange color, but no real rust) that coolant may have just been starting to get to cylinder #6, and there was mild, fresh, flash rust in the head bolt holes between #4 and #5 only.

The cylinder walls look great, but I have not turned the crank yet to get a complete look see. Probaly clean and vac out the remaining junk off and out of the block saturday, spray some more oil in on the walls and pistons, and then turn the crank for a final look see.


Makes sense - IIRC, the pax side of the engine (as mounted) is the "major thrust side" (I'd have to look up where most of the "thrust wear" happens - I'm wanting to think it's during the power and exhaust strokes.) Anyhow, the piston will actually pushed sidewise slightly toward the major thrust side, which will mean that one "side" of the cylinder tends to wear slightly faster than the other.

If you want to check to see how much of it is carbon, there's a simple way to check - but how well do you trust your hands? Using a brand spankin' new razor blade (I find a utility knife/"boxcutter" handle works best,) try to scrape some of the ridge off. If it comes off, it's carbon, and you can clean it. If it doesn't, it can be removed by machining (either stones - for small ridges - or boring.)

I ask how well you trust your hands because it's important - the razor blade is harder than the iron used to cast the block, and it's entirely possible to scrape some iron out...
 
So which side should I use for excess wear measurement, the thin ridge or the thickest ridge. If I use the thickest ridge I think I am screwed.:eek:

IIRC this jeep had 10W30 in it. And it just passed emission tests prior to the head gasket failure, and it is suppose to have only 114,000 miles on it, so I am inclided to drop the head back on it and go.

I am running 20W50 plus Lucas in my 253,000 mile, 87, so I would hate to see what the ridge on it looks like.:eek:
!!!1 But it still runs and it also passed emission tests with flying colors a few months ago.
 
insanity said:
Also get the fuil line removal tool.

RENIX doesn't need one - it's got ears you can get to with your fingers (or longnose pliers, in a pinch.) I've not needed tools to pop RENIX fuel lines.

Sounds about like the PO ran it a little faster than normal - my 1987 pretty much lived at 3200rpm and under for the 170K or so that I drove it (and I didn't lose the oil pump until 120K into my owning it. I'd probably still be driving it if I'd put new rings in, since I was there anyhow...)
 
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