CJ steering knuckles to XJ axle?

Hey everybody,this seems very obvious so it must not be possible,but I gotta ask.I really want selectable hubs for my XJ front d30 but I dont wanna pay $700-$1300 for a conversion kit.I was wondering if the knuckles and hubs and all from a later CJ d30 with disc brakes would fit on the XJ d30?I figure no otherwise everyone would do it,but havent been able to find an answer.Also has anyone run the milemarker conversion?Why is it like $500 cheaper than the Warn conversion?

Thanks all!

From 1979-1986, Dana 30's used a 10-1/2"x7/8" rotor with a 2 bolt to knuckle caliper mounting bracket. From '79-'81 the caliper is keyed to the mounting bracket and uses rubber brake hoses with brass banjo fitting end. From '82-'86 the caliper is pin-bolted to the caliper bracket and the hoses are rubber crimped to steel line.

thanks for the info but what about using the whole CJ knuckle on the XJ housing?

Sure if you cut off your inner "c"'s and weld on the CJ ones.

look over on pirate on the home page, billavista did a write up on this swap many years ago.. It can be done, you will have to sleeve the housing to get the CJ inner "C's" to fit properly..

RBFab said:

Why is it like $500 cheaper than the Warn conversion?

Thanks all!

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I use the 5 on 5.5" conversion from Warn. When you see how nice everthing is made you can tell why. It comes with the good stuff as far as bearings and seals and it's just a work of art. The warn kit also includes outer cromo axel shafts and a spicer u-joint. All you need to add is inner axel shafts and your done. Their is quite a difference between the 5 on 4.5 kit and the 5 on 5.5 kit so if you are dropping this kind of cash and can afford to swap rear axel shafts and rims to match then you get what you pay for as far as a strength upgrade. I don't think either 4.5 kit is worth upgrading because all you gain is locking hubs that are small.

As far as the small hub thing goes,I was thinking that maybe it could become the weak link in the front axle instead of the u-joint(297x).A hub seems a hell of a lot easier to change than anything else! Unless it just starts breaking at the mere hint of load that is.

Thats a school of thought that I never liked. Make somthing weaker so it breaks first. I want my weakest link to be the crankshaft of the engine. If thats the weak link then I built a strong Jeep. Breaking a hub 3/4 the way up a long scary climb is not somthing I would want.

Agreed 100%.But thats expensive I'm just trying to strike a decent balance of daily driver to off-roader here.Not build the ultimate rock buggy.Without unlimited $$$ compromise must be made...

I like the way you think, RB. I've been wanting to do a hub conversion on my XJ but lack the cash to buy the Warn or even MileMarker. I'd like to do it just to "turn off" the front axle and gain some gas mileage. After owning my Tracker and having to get out and lock the hubs and then upgrading to a Trooper and now my XJ, I never thought I'd want to go back to selectable hubs...

Yeah I gotta admit just pulling a lever has spoiled me too,but the thought of all that crap spinning(eliminated disco) has finally gotten to me! Not only is it eating god knows how much MPG but what if somethin'(that was fine before I left )decides to wear out on the way to the trail?

Here's a good write-up with good pics.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=67134

Thanks guys,I knew it wouldn't just be a bolt-on.

The only difference between the Warn 5 on 4.5" and 5 on 5.5" kit is the bolt pattern, wheel hub, locking hub and shaft spline count. They use the same spindle and bearings between the two, you also have to mod a CJ rotor ID and OD to standard Jeep dimensions. Meaning if you ever wanted to upgrade a Warn or MM small kit to 5 on 5.5", just buy the CJ hub upgrade kit from Warn or find a CJ to pull parts off of.

When you upgrade to the larger kit with the 30 spline outers something else (more expensive) becomes your weak link. With the small kit the first thing to go would be the locking hub, can you change your wheel? Thats how easy it is to be back on the trail. With the large hub kit, it could be the u-joint, shaft, locking hub, ring and pinion, pinion yoke, etc. All which have a great way of taking mulitple things out along the way.

You really don't gain much just upgrading the outers to 5 on 5.5" without upgrading the inners to 30 spline also. There are aton of guys running the smaller kit on 35"s and 37"s successfully, I do.

Thanks CARTSXJ that was a very helpful response!Seems like you speak from experience! Do the Milemarker small-pattern kits require a modded rotor also?

Thanks again!

Yes both the Milemarker and Warn small hub kits require a machined full cast rotor. Any 87-90 full-cast rotor with a machined pilot hole of 3.656" to fit over the wheel hub. Takes about 10 minutes in a lathe, I do my own when needed; but I have access to a full machine shop.