It has to be a D35 Right?

Well I don't have any pictures but it doesnt have a flat bottom. It's my 89 Pioneer so it has to be a D35 right? I don't have ABS and It has a metal drain plug. I wish I had a camera. I'd like to know more about my rear since I have a towing package. Is there anywhere I could look the VIN# up? Is there anyway I kind mildly "beef" it up? Or would it be alright doing minor trails and such?

If you go to the Jeep / Chrysler website there's a place where you can send Chrysler your vin and they will print up a build sheet. Or you can go to the dealership and they will do the same.

You can also check for outstanding recalls at either location as well with the help of the last 8 digits of your VIN.

Look carefully at the webbing on the top of the pumpkin, at about 2 and 10 o'clock as you face it from behind. Unless it's very rusty, you should see embossed on one side, the Dana logo, and on the other "35C".

is that free?

OverTheHillsATTW said:

Well I don't have any pictures but it doesnt have a flat bottom. It's my 89 Pioneer so it has to be a D35 right? I don't have ABS and It has a metal drain plug. I wish I had a camera. I'd like to know more about my rear since I have a towing package. Is there anywhere I could look the VIN# up? Is there anyway I kind mildly "beef" it up? Or would it be alright doing minor trails and such?

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1988 was pretty much the last year for the D44 option - ChryCo didn't do it at all. The 8.25" didn't show up until 1991 or 1992 (or so,) so you've definitely got the D35. The fill plug (sadly, no drain plug here...) is threaded 1/2" NPT, in case you need or want to get a new one.

You can make sure - the D35 has a more oval shape, while the D44 is roughly hexagonal, and sits on a point. However, I'll damn near promise you it's a D35.

Do you plan on doing any heavy towing, or do you want to beef it up for crawling? If you want a heavier axle, you're probably better advised to get a late ChryCo 8.25" (29-spline shafts,) or find a D44 you can swap in (MJ Metric Tonne, early XJ Towing, FS Bronco, IHC Scout, and some full-size 1/2-ton or 3/4-ton pickups that don't have "corporate" axles.)

Anything but an XJ axle will have to be modified - you'll have to move the spring perches on the MJ axle (spring under to spring over,) and other axles will probably have different lug patterns (you can probably order custom shafts from an axle outfit to correct that, tho.)

Matthew Currie said:

Look carefully at the webbing on the top of the pumpkin, at about 2 and 10 o'clock as you face it from behind. Unless it's very rusty, you should see embossed on one side, the Dana logo, and on the other "35C".

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Matt, did Dana issue "Custom" axles before 1991? I thought all D35s were shipped as full assemblies up to the end of the 1990MY...

Im not sure that a D35 had a metal drain plug did it? I was under the impression that they only came out with rubber plugs.

I just want to make sure nothing bad is going to happen if I go towing around my atv or go on a little backwoods adventure. I hear alot of people bashing on them and it makes me a little worried. I'd like to opt for the 8.25 just to be on the safe side. Sounds like a weekend adventure to the local U PULL.

Well I just went out to check again and it is def not a rubber drain or fill or whatever it might be. Maybe someone already replaced the rubber one? I'm not to fond of the jeep axles...yet.

99XJWhitey said:

Im not sure that a D35 had a metal drain plug did it? I was under the impression that they only came out with rubber plugs.

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Nope - early ones had threaded holes. If you get the 8.25", get some spare rubber plugs. If you have a later D35, get an early cover.

You can find the 8.25" also under the Dakota pickup (move the spring perches, and I think the lug pattern is different) as well. XJ wheel lugs are 5 on 4.5", 1/2"-20 studs.

Won't a D44 also have a model number starting with 60 on the passenger side axle tube?

the D35C from my 89 wagoneer limited does have the metal fill plug (threaded). but i do have the ABS and the non C clip version, with a factory limited slip dif.

yellowta said:

Won't a D44 also have a model number starting with 60 on the passenger side axle tube?

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You're thinking of the "Bill of Materials" number - it's usually a six-digit number with a one- or two-digit suffix, and the base number starts with "60" or "61", typically.

This number can tell you what (generally) the axle was originally under, what gearing it had, what differential type, and can give you a breakdown of Dana part numbers that went into it. However, if you just want to know model, check the webbing of the centre section, as Matthew Currie said. The model number should be cast into there - for a Dana 44, it will be "44" vice "35".

You're comparing two different numbers - and there are a load of BoM numbers! I've got most of them already, and I've got to code that page (haven't gotten to it yet. It will be a lot of work, and I've not figured out how I want to organise it just yet...)

I have an 89 Pioneer and it has the D35 non c-clip with a metal screw in fill plug. I have a trac-loc in mine running 33s and have not had a problem with it at all. I've been told that the early D35s without C-clips are stronger than the later c-clip style. I do keep an extra pair of axles shafts in the XJ when I'm wheelin down at the Badlands or anywhere else that I will be on rocks.

Hey thanks! It's good to know because im only going to be running 30X9.5. At least I know I wont lose a shaft going over a mound of dirt. :worship:

calvynandhobbs said:

I have an 89 Pioneer and it has the D35 non c-clip with a metal screw in fill plug. I have a trac-loc in mine running 33s and have not had a problem with it at all. I've been told that the early D35s without C-clips are stronger than the later c-clip style. I do keep an extra pair of axles shafts in the XJ when I'm wheelin down at the Badlands or anywhere else that I will be on rocks.

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It's not so much that the shafts are stronger - I think they're actually the same size. The issue comes when you "drop a C" for whatever reason (shaft gets pushed in, button breaks off, ...) and your wheel decides to go along without you.

C-clip and retainer plate axles are both of the "semi-floating" type, but the retention differs. C-clip axles are retained at the inside extremity of the shaft, and it's not a "positive" retention. "Retainer plate" axles are retained just behind the hub flange with a plate that's bolted onto the housing flange, and the bearing is actually pressed on (with a retainer collar pressed on behind that.) Upside - if you snap a shaft in the middle, you're going to keep your wheel with you.

The C-clip "innovation" (yeah, right,) can be found on a number of axles, and you can also get "C-clip eliminator kits" for many of them. You'll find a few for the Ford 8.8", if you feel like finding out what I'm talking about. (The Ford 8.8" is a common swap, but you should get that kit if you're going to do it.) The C-clip Dana 35's didn't show up on the XJ until after 1990, so you should be fine.

The D35 will handle up to a 31" tyre, unless you get stupid with the skinny pedal. You can also tow with it moderately - I didn't have any trouble taking a 3,000# box from ATL to SJC, and it can do more if you're careful. If you expect to spend some time 'crawling, I'd definitely suggest an upgrade - but for mud, sand, dirt - unless you're dragging, you should be just fine for a while.

As I said before, you should have the D35. It should have the retainer plates (if you look in when you're changing oil/inspecting your differential, you can see if there are C-clips by checking the side gears.)

A retainer plate shaft is also easier to change on the trail, since you don't have to actually open up the differential. Just lift the side you're changing a few inches, pull the plate, swap the shaft, and put it back down. You just need to tilt the housing away from where you're working to keep all the oil in there.

Also, if a C-clip shaft gets pitted at the bearing surface, replacement is mandatory (the bearing rollers ride directly on the shaft surface.) You can get away with a little on the retainer plate shaft - you just need to be able to press the bearing on and off to change it.

from what ive researched, the D35 axles seem to snap mostly when the axle housing is being flexed, and or bent to the point that the axle shaft binds in the carrier and snaps. a good truss on the axle tubes i would think would prevent this tremendously.

Okay so I'm def thinking the round oval shap under my cherokee 89 pio is a D35. Now with that said I ran out back and crawled under my 90 laredo. That has a flat bottom! So i've already got the 8.25 to bolt onto my 89?

OverTheHillsATTW said:

Okay so I'm def thinking the round oval shap under my cherokee 89 pio is a D35. Now with that said I ran out back and crawled under my 90 laredo. That has a flat bottom! So i've already got the 8.25 to bolt onto my 89?

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Hm - you might. I didn't think the 8.25" showed up until 1991 or so.

The 8.25" axle has a hexagonal housing, but it's resting on a side (not a point like the D44.) It usually has a rubber "butt plug" filler plug in the cover.

The early ones are 27-spline, and a shade weaker than the later 29-spline. However, it's still stronger than the D35.

You can check quickly next time you have the cover off - the ChryCo axle has a ring gear with an OD of 8.25" (8-1/4") and the D35 is somewhere around 7.625" (7-5/8")

Thanks 5-90 your the man! I'll check this weekend hopefully.

calvynandhobbs said:

I have an 89 Pioneer and it has the D35 non c-clip with a metal screw in fill plug. I have a trac-loc in mine running 33s and have not had a problem with it at all. I've been told that the early D35s without C-clips are stronger than the later c-clip style. I do keep an extra pair of axles shafts in the XJ when I'm wheelin down at the Badlands or anywhere else that I will be on rocks.

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run away quick, I killed mine with 33's driving very mildly over some rocks.