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stripped track bar nut/bolt.

T

tayman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Niceville, FL
so here's the deal... I got an adjustable trackbar from rough country off of ebay... well, I put it on, and the first thing I noticed is that I couldn't tighten down the nut on the ball joint enough to get a cotter pin in. I think "well, I got it tight enough, maybe it'll wear in and I'll be able to tighten it more later...". Well, I went wheeling yesterday, and noticed it coming loose... I took a break to tighten it real quick, and can you guess what happened? I start tightening it, and it keeps turning... I'm thinking "wow, this thing got really loose!" but it still KEPT going... I soon realize that it's stripped. I try to loosen it to see if I might be able to get another nut on it. NOPE! Can't get it off! I think the stud is stripped on the ball joint... so now, I have to get it off to figure out what to do about it, and I'd like to do it without destroying the joint. Ideas? I'm kinda stuck right now.
 
make sure the taper is set first. A couple good taps with a hammer towards the taper to seat it try that. worked for me to get my tierod off for my aussie install
 
Put Pressure on it with a wedge (Tie rod end seperator) and try to get it off... Then replace it, and make sure it's tight before you drive it with the new one. ~Ace~
 
yeah, that seems to be the general opinion... I know it needs to be really tight before driving with it... like REALLY tight...
 
How about just buying a "real" trackbar!Sell your POS a reclaim some money.
 
RCP Phx said:
How about just buying a "real" trackbar!Sell your POS a reclaim some money.
Click to expand...

thanks, that helps me get it off......:looser:
 
You could remove the entire bracket and trackbar as one!Seriously,the clamping method is about the only way to stop the spinning!
 
In most cases, or everytime I've had something strip out, it was the nut that striped not the stud/bolt.

Like they said, put pressure on it.

When that don't work get out the die grinder and cut the nut off.
 
tayman said:
thanks, that helps me get it off......:looser:
Click to expand...

A real trackbar doesnt use a balljoint at the end, and you can cut it off or just unbolt the whole mount.

It was the best advice thats been given. :)

In the meantime, I'm on the "use a picklefork to tighten it up enough to loosen" wagon.
 
cal said:
A real trackbar doesnt use a balljoint at the end, and you can cut it off or just unbolt the whole mount.

It was the best advice thats been given. :)

In the meantime, I'm on the "use a picklefork to tighten it up enough to loosen" wagon.
Click to expand...

So what is my JKS trackbar? a fake one? It may have a ball and socket joint at the end but it's still one of the best trackbars out there. :wave:
 
muddeprived said:
So what is my JKS trackbar? a fake one? It may have a ball and socket joint at the end but it's still one of the best trackbars out there. :wave:
Click to expand...


JKS makes excellent products, but that is not what I would call a best of anything design.
 
In the meantime, I'm on the "use a picklefork to tighten it up enough to loosen" wagon.
Click to expand...

tried it..... it's not that the bolt is spinning... it is staying still, and the nut is spinning on it, unable to grab any threads to loosten. Looks like I may be taking the plasma cutter to it when the R.O.P. opens back up.
 
tayman said:
tried it..... it's not that the bolt is spinning... it is staying still, and the nut is spinning on it, unable to grab any threads to loosten. Looks like I may be taking the plasma cutter to it when the R.O.P. opens back up.
Click to expand...

maybe take a dremel to the nut and slice it on two sides and then wack it off. It might prevent ya from cutting the bolt with the plasma cutter.
 
My Rough country tracbar did the same thing. I stripped my first one out trying to seat the damn thing. I even used a 2x4 under a floor jack to seat the tre. No luck. Best bet for right now is to replace the TRE with a moog es140r, much better design with a taper that actually seats.
 
Yeah, thanks 98xjclassic..... I tried the same type O thing... except I used the floor jack on the end of a pickle fork to no avail... it's still on there... I'm gonna have to cut it. I might do what muddeprived suggested and use a dremel, or a cutting wheel on it.

I'm thinking about replacing the whole friggin thing with a different T-bar if I can ever get this thing off.

.....unless I can just keep getting the TRE replaced by Rough Country
 
Nut spins TRE doesn't ... hmmm...
I've used a sledge handle (upside down, head in hand) from above to hit the bar to engage the threads

I'm a fan of the K.O.R. TB Conversion (JKS Bar) w\60D bushings
 
Last edited:
tayman said:
I'm thinking about replacing the whole friggin thing with a different T-bar if I can ever get this thing off.
.....unless I can just keep getting the TRE replaced by Rough Country
Click to expand...
Its seems like a simple question,change theTRE out all the time,or get a trackbar that works way better and walk away??????
 
i installed a rough country trac bar and it did the same exact thing....i ended up using a pick fork and putting a ton of pressure on the nut and it eventually grabbed and came off...then put a new nut on it and works good as new...been beaten the crap out of it ever sense
 
RCP Phx said:
Its seems like a simple question,change theTRE out all the time,or get a trackbar that works way better and walk away??????
Click to expand...

hahaha, good point. But if I can make it work without spending more money, I'd prefer to do it that way...

I'll try the "ton of pressure" method. I'll have to get a second person to help though... maybe tomorrow..... we'll see. Let's hope...
 
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