Help with dual Battery Setup

cds36 · Mar 3, 2008

Hey guys i have a dual setup im working on but have a few questions. below is my diagram of it. First i noticed that the alternator lead runs up into the bottom of the PDC, through two MAXI60 fuses and connects to the Buss bar inside the PDC. This Buss bar is directly connected to the +battery anode. Is this for the starter relay? I read that i should remove the 2 MAXI60 fuses if i am going to run this setup somewhere. True?

Second should i piggyback the new 4g wire to the back of the alternator oem wire"looks like 10g wire" or just remove the oem wire completly?

Thanks any help appreciated

xjbubba · Mar 3, 2008

You need to disconnect the alternator output from the power distribution center. You want it to go only to the battery isolator, as shown in your diagram; the isolator is to allow charging more than one battery without one battery feeding back to another. I'd use the 4ga wire, from the alternator output direct to the isolator, leaving the OEM 10ga disconnected. If you don't remove the 10ga wire completely, make sure the terminal is covered so that it can't come in contact with anything else; you don't want any fires.
Your diagram shows the "primary battery" not connected to any load.
It would be best to use a three-way battery switch, to allow selecting which battery you want to use. You would then be able to select the "starting" battery, or the "primary" battery, both, or neither (off position). As an alternative, you could use a power relay to parallel the batteries for starting only, connecting the "primary" battery only to specific loads for normal use. It's not good to hard wire the batteries in parallel, although many do so; if one battery goes bad, the other battery will be discharged by the bad battery.

cds36 · Mar 3, 2008

xjbubba said:
You need to disconnect the alternator output from the power distribution center. You want it to go only to the battery isolator, as shown in your diagram; the isolator is to allow charging more than one battery without one battery feeding back to another. I'd use the 4ga wire, from the alternator output direct to the isolator, leaving the OEM 10ga disconnected. If you don't remove the 10ga wire completely, make sure the terminal is covered so that it can't come in contact with anything else; you don't want any fires.
Your diagram shows the "primary battery" not connected to any load.
It would be best to use a three-way battery switch, to allow selecting which battery you want to use. You would then be able to select the "starting" battery, or the "primary" battery, both, or neither (off position). As an alternative, you could use a power relay to parallel the batteries for starting only, connecting the "primary" battery only to specific loads for normal use. It's not good to hard wire the batteries in parallel, although many do so; if one battery goes bad, the other battery will be discharged by the bad battery.

yeah my primary battery "accessorie battery yellow top" is for lights amp etc and nothing else. The starter battery "redtop" is for starting the jeep only and power distribution box.

Have you herd about removing the 60a fusees from the fuse box?

techno1154 · Mar 3, 2008

Your diagram is good. You need to remove the exsisting cable between the alternator and the PDM "both ends". If I remember correctly, the 2X 60 AMP fuses are to protect the wire/charge from the alternator. With a high output alternator, the fuses will not be enough. At the same time, by removing the wire between the alternator and the PDM renders the fuses useless. It is recommended that you use a fuse between the alternator and the battery isolator that is of a higher AMP rating than the alternator. Do not do as I do (I have a 200 AMP alternator and no fuse). Maybe the XJ will not :flame:

cds36 · Mar 3, 2008

techno1154 said:
Your diagram is good. You need to remove the exsisting cable between the alternator and the PDM "both ends". If I remember correctly, the 2X 60 AMP fuses are to protect the wire/charge from the alternator. With a high output alternator, the fuses will not be enough. At the same time, by removing the wire between the alternator and the PDM renders the fuses useless. It is recommended that you use a fuse between the alternator and the battery isolator that is of a higher AMP rating than the alternator. Do not do as I do (I have a 200 AMP alternator and no fuse). Maybe the XJ will not :flame:

Cool one other question i still need to connect the wire from the PDM to the +battery anode yes? this is the starter relay connection?

techno1154 · Mar 3, 2008

cds36 said:
Cool one other question i still need to connect the wire from the PDM to the +battery anode yes? this is the starter relay connection?

Yea you need to. The starting battery + should be connected to both the starter and the PDM. Remember, The PDM powers everything in the XJ including the key switch.

cds36 · Mar 3, 2008

techno1154 said:
Yea you need to. The starting battery + should be connected to both the starter and the PDM. Remember, The PDM powers everything in the XJ including the key switch.

Hey Thanks Patrick i appreciate your help

5-90 · Mar 3, 2008

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/instructions.html - "Wiring Your Battery Isolator Solenoid."

I prefer solenoids over solid-state isolators - not only are they smaller, but they're usually available in higher ratings, have some more wiring options than a solid-state rig, and are more tolerant of vibration and heat. Let me know if you have any questions - there's a link to email me on the site...

Help with dual Battery Setup

cds36

NAXJA Forum User

xjbubba

NAXJA Member # 1524

cds36

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techno1154

NAXJA Member

cds36

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techno1154

NAXJA Member

cds36

NAXJA Forum User

5-90

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