Axle Upgrade & Lockers

OK...I know this has probably been discussed before, and I've searched, but didn't find the answers to my questions.

I have an '89 XJ Wagoneer LTD (yes XJ, not full sized, has woodie sides...soooo cool). It's got a D35 rear and high pinion reverse cut D30 front, with a NP242 transfer case. I think ratios are 3:73. I'm currently running 33's and want to upgrade axles and add lockers.

I want to put a Ford 8.8 in the rear and re-gear both to 4:56 or 4:88. Which gear ratio is better??? It's a daily driver and sees trail use all-year long (8-10 times a year, rocks, snow, and combinations of both...little mud).

Eventually I want to have selectable lockers in both ends, rear first, then front.

Now the questions. Lockers...with the full-time 4x4 system, am I better off with ARB or e-lockers, or is there a difference? I'd like the ability to lock either independantly of the other...either, both, etc. I already have an on-board air compressor...so cost of the air comprressor is not an issue. I'd like the option to run both open to better take advantage of the 242's full-time 4x4 option for daily driving or highway driving in snowy conditions. I'm not into the issues of having a locked axle in icy conditions!

I know this is probably addressed somewhere...but couldn't find via search. Please don't tell me to trash the 242...it's solid and I love it!

Thanks in advance...

I run 33's on 4.56 and love it, its perfect for the hills that I have in the PNW but a little deeper wouldnt hurt. Do you plan do go bigger ever? If you do then just go to 4.88's the first time.

I believe that both the e locker and ARB should be just as good as each other. I would go with the one that is the best price. With 33's you shouldnt need alloys up front but it depends how hard you are on your axle, if your on a budget just get some spare shafts from the junkyard and carry them when you wheel so you can have a swap if you brake a shaft.

-Alex

When in doubt, gear a little deeper. The 4.0 doesnt mind spinning a little fast as much as it minds working a little harder. You won't be driving around at 80 all that often, but I guarantee you will start from a red light every time you drive.

I have 4.88's and 35's on my 87, and wish I had 5.13's.

i have 4.56's with 33's on mine and it works well. I can not do more than about 75-80 on the freeway, but then again, mine isnt a DD. So i just drive it to the trails. It probably wouldnt hurt to go with 4.88's if you plan on running 35's later or just plan on staying with the 33's.

i say go with the ARB's F/R if you can afford them. If not, then just wait until you can.

Thanks to all who replied...good advice. I think I'll stick with 4:56's since I don't trailer the rig to the trail, and some trips involve quite a few highway miles to reach the trail!

I will be running 4.88's & 33's on my DD soon. I will also be driving it to the trails

Just food for thought...I read this months Issue of Petersen's 4 Wheel & Off Road. Mopar is selling their front and rear Dana 44 Rubicon complete axles including the disc brakes And electric lockers for $1400.00 per axle....WOW!! And with an aftermarket bracket kit it will fit on the XJ no problem.

Do they still have replacement D44's for the older and special edition XJs? I know I had a D35 replaced on warranty about 2 years ago...

"Just $1,400 per axle"...wow...that's $2,800 for the vehicle. I know it's not expensive compared to new...but is expensive when my rig is worth the price of the two axles. What do I do now??

Get the 8.8. You will be happy. Do the research, collect all parts then put it in. I spent about $700 total to do mine but I didn't change gears and put in an Aussie, with the 31s I run. I just found one with 3.55's Get one from a 95 up explorer or Mountaineer 4x2 or 4x4. 31 spline shafts and disc brakes. I keep pluggin this swap because I am realy happy with it. I can relate to not spending much on something I payed little for. paid $1,200 fer my 89 XJ.

Flyfisher said:

"Just $1,400 per axle"...wow...that's $2,800 for the vehicle. I know it's not expensive compared to new...but is expensive when my rig is worth the price of the two axles. What do I do now??

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Um, have you figured out what you're going to spend on your 8.8?

Axle
Axle mounting hardware
U bolts
R&P
R&P install kit
R&P install labor (unless you can DIY)
Brake parts
Brake lines
Locker (ARB/OX, etc.)
Locker accessories (ARB compressor, OX levers, etc.)
New diff cover (stock is tuna fish can thin)
Welding supplies (and possibly labor)
New wheels/spacers OR Super 88 kit

By the time I was done, my 8.8 cost just shy of 3K (including all of the above). I think the Rubi axles seem like a pretty good deal.

That's the ultimate 8.8. I just found a junkyard axle.
new seals
wire wheel and cut off wheels
one rubber brake line (the one on it was still good)
Aussie Locker
Ruff Stuff install kit
no spacers to correct width

It can be done for reasonable. If you are not running huge tires there is no nead to upgrade shafts. The rest can be upgraded later if needed.

wannajeep said:

That's the ultimate 8.8. I just found a junkyard axle.
new seals
wire wheel and cut off wheels
one rubber brake line (the one on it was still good)
Aussie Locker
Ruff Stuff install kit
no spacers to correct width

It can be done for reasonable. If you are not running huge tires there is no nead to upgrade shafts. The rest can be upgraded later if needed.

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Oh, I agree 100%, but the OP mentioned re-gearing and a selectible locker--a regear (non-DIY) and a new ARB w/compressor is what, around $1,500?

ARB ~$800
Compressor ~$200
R&P/install kit ~$200
Gear/locker install ~$300

That's not even counting the other things you NEED:
Spring pads/shock mounts (MORE kit is nice, buy pricey)
Brake lines
New brake parts (if needed--make sure to get the calps for cores)
Welding rods (nickle for pumpkin--they're not cheap) and pads/mounts
U bolts

It adds up FAST!

jeepman121 said:

In comparison, even if the 8.8 is a little cheaper...which I don't know it is for sure, I think I'd rather spend a little more and get all new equipment rather than a scrapped & worn axle.

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I saw the article, but don't recall the specifics on the rear axle. IIRC, the Rubi front axle consists of D30 sized tubes with a D44 diff. Would the rear be the same, or is it a "real" D44?

Pretty sure the jk rubi axles are true 44s and I thought it was 1400 per pair...

slcpunk74 said:

Pretty sure the jk rubi axles are true 44s and I thought it was 1400 per pair...

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Ah, I was thinking TJ Rubi--you're probably correct. I am, though, pretty sure it was $1400 each.

its the real deal.

The new JK rubicon has "next-gen" D44s. Meaning no more d30 sized tubes and knuckles.

Even the new rear D44 has a beefier pinion and slightly stronger shafts.

MoparManiac said:

its the real deal.

The new JK rubicon has "next-gen" D44s. Meaning no more d30 sized tubes and knuckles.

Even the new rear D44 has a beefier pinion and slightly stronger shafts.

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Man, this is a year late for me--I don't know how you can beat the price (though it would be nice if you could get other gear ratios (perhaps you can?)).

Front and rear, including ARBs I ended up with right around 5K total in front and rear axles (and still haven't trussed either of them).

I would really give these serious consideration if I was doing it today!