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Troubleshooting with a vacuum guage?

McQue

NAXJA Forum User
Found this write-up about troubleshooting motors with a vacumn guage...
Caused me to go looking for manufacturer specs on vacumn in my FSM...could not find them.. So...a couple of questions...

1. Any body have vacumn specs for an 01XJ at idle, and at 2000 RPM?
( or at least a ballpark range educated guess)

2. Do you buy off on the following write up as valid?
Diagnosing car engines with a vacuum gauge. A vacuum gauge gives
a quick and cheap (under $15) indication of engine problems. To
isolate a problem further diagnostics are usually needed.

This is a consolidation of diagnostics from three sources:
1. instructions for Equus vacuum gauge
2. Chilton general car care manual
3. Haynes emissions control manual

Connecting the vacuum gauge.
Engine must be warm or the gauge reading will be too high and
computer will be in warmup mode. Select a vacuum hose connected
directly to the car's intake manifold or select an unused port on
the manifold. The best alternative would be to attach a hose to
an unused port on the manifold and leave it there for use with
the gauge. Plug the hose when not in use. Otherwise if in doubt
which hoses are connected to the intake manifold, consult the
hose diagram on the emissions sticker, usually found on the
underside of the hood or on the firewall, or consult a repair
manual. If still in doubt the hose to the MAP (pressure) sensor
is connected directly to the intake manifold. The gauge can be
tapped into a hose using a T-connector. For a quick and dirty
reading unplug the easy to find PCV hose on the valve cover and
plug in the vacuum gauge. Using the PCV hose may not give a
direct connection to the intake manifold and it will cause the
engine to idle slowly, but it will give an intake vacuum reading
and is easy to use when looking at a strange car, for example a
prospective purchase. Start the engine and read the gauge in
inches of mercury (in Hg). The dial on the gauge may be marked
with the good range.

1. Equus instructions
a. testing at idle speed
- compare vacuum reading with manufacturer's specification.
- a lower reading indicates possible incorrect timing,
incorrect valve timing or adjustment, incorrect setting of
idle mixture, worn piston rings, or leak in intake
manifold.
- readings that change slowly indicate incorrect setting of
idle mixture screw.
- readings that change quickly indicate sticky valve guides,
burned valve sets, or leak in head gasket.
b. testing at 2000 rpm
- a lower reading indicates possible restriction in exhaust.
- oscillating reading indicates possible weak valve springs.

2. Chilton general car care manual.
- gauge reading steady 17-22 in Hg indicates normal engine in
good condition.
- gauge reading low (15-20 in Hg) but steady indicates late
ignition or valve timing, low compression, stuck throttle
valve, leaking carburetor or manifold gasket.
- gauge reading steady but dropping regularly indicates burnt
valve or improper valve clearance.
- gauge reading dropping gradually at idle indicates choked
muffler or obstruction in exhaust.
- gauge reading slowly dropping to zero as engine speeds up
indicates choked muffler.
- gauge reading fluctuating between 15 and 20 in Hg at idle
indicates stuck valve or ignition miss.
- gauge reading drifting indicates improper carburetor
adjustment or minor intake leak at carburetor or manifold.
- gauge reading fluctuating as engine speed increases
indicates weak valve springs, worn valve stem guides.
- gauge reading vibrating excessively at idle but steady as
engine speeds up indicates worn valve guides.
- gauge reading vibrating excessively at all speeds indicates
leaky cylinder head gasket.

3. Haynes emissions control manual
a. testing at various speeds
- engine starting vacuum should be 1 to 4 in Hg. To test
disable ignition (ground wire from coil), hold throttle
wide open, crank engine slowly with starting motor.
- healthy engine at idle should read steady 15 to 20 in Hg.
- healthy engine at 2000 rpm should read steady 19 to 21 in
Hg.
- healthy engine at open throttle should read close to 0 in
Hg.
- healthy decelerating engine reading should jump to 21 to
27 in Hg as open throttle released.
b. testing at idle speed
- low steady reading usually indicates leaking gasket
between intake manifold and carburetor or throttle body,
leaky vacuum hose, or incorrect camshaft timing.
- low fluctuating (3 to 8 in Hg below normal) reading may
indicate intake manifold gasket leak at an intake port or
faulty injectors on port-injected engines.
- regular drops (2 to 4 in Hg) in reading at a steady rate
indicates probable leaking valves.
- irregular drops in reading indicates possible sticking
valve or ignition misfire.
- rapid vibration (4 in Hg) in reading combined with exhaust
smoke indicates worn valve guides.
- slight fluctuation (1 in Hg) in reading indicates possible
ignition problems.
- large fluctuation (10 in Hg) in reading indicates likely
weak or dead cylinder or blown head gasket.
- slow movement through wide range in reading indicates
possible clogged PCV system, incorrect idle fuel mixture,
or gasket leak between carburetor, throttle body, or
intake manifold.
c. testing at higher speeds
- rapid vibration (4 in Hg) in reading at increased engine
speed indicates leaking intake manifold gasket or head
gasket, weak valve springs, burned valves, or ignition
misfire.
- reading returns slowly to normal and didn't peak above
normal (5 in Hg) after dropping to zero when throttle
quickly snapped open (2500 rpm) suspect worn rings.
- reading returns to normal after long delay when throttle
quickly snapped open (2500 rpm) suspect blocked exhaust.
d. testing for blocked exhaust
- idle speed reading slowly dropping toward zero indicates
exhaust restriction.
- excessive backpressure in exhaust then indicated by
reading not increasing quickly to about 16 in Hg when
engine speed slowly increased to 2000 rpm.
- backpressure also indicated by reading not dropping as
quickly when throttle quickly released and remaining 5 in
Hg higher or more than normal.
- disconnect exhaust manifold from engine and retest. If
problem disappears exhaust system is blocked.
- to locate restriction reconnect exhaust system one unit at
a time testing after each until problem reappears.
---------------------------------------------------------------
 
Holy crap!!I hope you copy and pasted that!!!


idle vacuum reading should be about 20Hg and hold steady without flucuation,or rapid needle bounce.
As long as the needle reads around 20Hg and isn't jumping around your motor is probably in good shape.You might as well do a compression test also while you're trying to determine the condition of you motor....or better yet a leak down test.
 
Last edited:
Remember the vacuum will vary with altitude. Here at 5,000ft. the vacuum readings tend to be a touch lower.
 
Ok...just trying to get a baseline to work from...

Measuring with a vacuum gauge,

vacuum at idle 650 rpm is 16"hg and steady
vacuum at 2000 rpm is 20"hg and steady

my autoxray scanner shows 12"hg for the MAP reading at idle which converts to 5.9 psi

Motor is running fine, power level feels fine, mileage is about 12 to14 around town...16 to 18 for highway...

Does anybody think this idle vacuum reading is too low?
 
Was that reading at hot idle? Vacuum has a lot to do with the piston rings and how they seal against the bore. If you baby the motor (which most people do) the piston rings eventually get carboned up and stop rotating, this is bad. The factory HP rating of 190 doesn't even get produced until 4500+ rpms.


*on a side note, a tech buddy of mine once told me about a procedure that Cadillac had for all those elderly folk that feather the skinny pedal. Those owners would complain of spark knock and general poor performance. The tech would then be advised to fully warm up the motor and take it out onto the highway, accelerate to 40 mph then go WOT to highway speed. He'd do this a handful of times and then run the BG44K through it. Engines were designed to be used, not babied.
 
I would say most of the diagnostics listed are still valid, except that carburetor issues obviously won't arise. It's still a very handy tool, especially for trying to narrow down avenues of inquiry.

For example, if you have a miss and nothing shows on the gauge, you know it's not a bad valve, and probably not ignition either, so you should look at the injectors.
 
Thanks for your feedback....
The good news is I don't suspect I have any motor problems, and I have found several other threads that stated having the same vacuum at idle as mine. I'm glad I have a baseline to work with, should a problem develop somewhere on down the road, I'll have something to compare to. Wish I had checked it when I bought it new off the lot back in 2001. Only thing that bugs me is most articles I dig up on the internet use 18-20"hg as a correct vacuum at idle. I'm betting if 20 Jeepers checked theirs right now, more than half would be less than 18"hg at idle.
 
McQue said:
Thanks for your feedback....
The good news is I don't suspect I have any motor problems, and I have found several other threads that stated having the same vacuum at idle as mine. I'm glad I have a baseline to work with, should a problem develop somewhere on down the road, I'll have something to compare to. Wish I had checked it when I bought it new off the lot back in 2001. Only thing that bugs me is most articles I dig up on the internet use 18-20"hg as a correct vacuum at idle. I'm betting if 20 Jeepers checked theirs right now, more than half would be less than 18"hg at idle.
It's hard to find any vehicle made since about 1970 that has base line vacuum as high as the gauge instructions continue to spec. You're fine if you check what you get on a healthy engine, and just keep an eye out for changes.
 
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