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Advice needed on clutch replacement...

mopar440

mopar440

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jefferson, Oregon
Clutch kit coming today... gonna do it this weekend... looks pretty straightforward, except for the TO bearing... looks like I can just disco the lines @ the tranny... Haynes is kinda vague on that... did one in an '87 Bronco 2 a few years ago and had to pull the entire slave unit from the firewall down with the trans... was a pain in the A$$!!! Any advice? Mine'a a '92 XJ 4.0 with the AX15... should be a piece of cake...
 
You'll have to lower the trans/motor down low enough to reach the two top bellhousing bolts. They are inverted torx. I forget the size but can look when I get to the shop. Other than those two bolts, it's fairly straight forward. Also, don't forget to remove the crankshaft sensor before the trans. as most of the time it will break if you try to leave it in place.

J
 
Avanteone said:
You'll have to lower the trans/motor down low enough to reach the two top bellhousing bolts. They are inverted torx. I forget the size but can look when I get to the shop. Other than those two bolts, it's fairly straight forward. Also, don't forget to remove the crankshaft sensor before the trans. as most of the time it will break if you try to leave it in place.

J
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! Have a full set of Torx sockets... where exactly is the CPS at? And when you say "inverted", do you mean like an Allen-head hex cap bolt, only in Torx configuration?
 
Found the CPS... good pic of it in the Haynes!
 
Yes, those are a pain in the butt. I used a 12-point + Universal + extension'S + breaker bar and they came off.
Remember to disconnect your 02's from your exhaust when you have to move it.
 
Cool...Thanks guys! On my way to Salem Tool to pick up sockets...
 
Avanteone said:
You'll have to lower the trans/motor down low enough to reach the two top bellhousing bolts. They are inverted torx. I forget the size but can look when I get to the shop. Other than those two bolts, it's fairly straight forward. Also, don't forget to remove the crankshaft sensor before the trans. as most of the time it will break if you try to leave it in place.

J
Click to expand...

They're E12. They're threaded 3/8"-16, so you can replace them with standard hex heads (I just don't recall the length offhand.)

I do find it easier to use studs and nuts, tho - the studs give me extra points of alignment.
 
Yep... thought about that route... will try it! Thanks 5-90
 
Am also planning to do mine, have rebuilt an ax15 and tcase. I found the e12 reverse torx as part of a set at Sears for $9. One idea I have read about that seems to make sense is to use some long studs as guides when
reinstalling the transmission. Thanks John for the CPS tip. Question I have is that I splurged on a HF transmission jack, the cheap kind, and am wondering if I can get away with pulling transmission and tcase as one rather than separating. Right now I am thinking separate them for ease of movement.

Link to the craftsman socket $7.99

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934626000P?vName=Tools&keyword=e12+torx

Lisle set now $14.99

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947733000P?keyword=lisle


I plan to lower the transmission and then string together a mile of extensions.
 
Thanks for the Sears lead... and yeah, prolly be alot easier to leave 'em married together... local tool rental place rents tranny jack for 12 bucks a day... low profile, tilt and twist, with chain tie-down... guy knows me pretty well, as I always rent stuff there...
 
FYI, everyone... luckily I looked at all the parts and read all the suppliments that came in the clutch kit... make sure if you're gonna do this job, you look under yer rig and see if the hydraulic line to the TO bearing are quick-fit or screw-together... mine is the latter, but the kit had the former... they swapped this out for me W/O a problem @ the parts place... just a heads-up!:paperwork
 
My gearbox is out. One thing I scratched my head on for longer that I care to admit was the 2 top self tapping bolts that hold the splash guard on to the bellhousing. Comes off a lot easier with those out. :)
 
mopar440 said:
FYI, everyone... luckily I looked at all the parts and read all the suppliments that came in the clutch kit... make sure if you're gonna do this job, you look under yer rig and see if the hydraulic line to the TO bearing are quick-fit or screw-together... mine is the latter, but the kit had the former... they swapped this out for me W/O a problem @ the parts place... just a heads-up!:paperwork
Click to expand...

The 1/4" SAE flare fitting was used with the Peugeot, and the QD was used with the AX-15.

If you convert, you can still use the same clutch kit until you get around to replacing the rest of the hydraulics (for whatever reason.) The friction didn't change, just the hydraulic coupling.
 
Got 'er done yesterday! Only issue was a stubborn exhaust flange bolt... other than that, piece of cake...gotta learn how to drive it again, now!!!:spin1:

Forgot that I already had the E-torx set in the rollaway... glad I checked before buying another set! Looked like previous owner had trans out at some point... one of the E-bolts was gone, and the other was backed-out about 2-3 threads, and looked like they tried hammering on a non-Torx socket... replaced 'em with hex-heads and all is well!
 
Yeah, NickGuy, it does tend to come apart alot easier with those big-ass sheet metal screws removed!!! Lucky for me I spied them when I was taking out the starter...:roflmao:
 
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