o ring adapter on 85?

hi guys got a oil leak problem.after driving,there is a 2 inch diamter of oil under my front end,i would say it is in the vicinity of the oil pan. when i got under to look(fast look it minus 20 here!)i saw 3 things. first the exhaust pipe is saturated in oil 2 there is a tear drop of oil hanging from the oil filter and 3 the flat surface of the oil pan is soaked with oil. now i did a search on here and within 5 secs(i love naxja!)i found out about that a couple of people had the same prob,changed oil seal adapter o rings and wow magic!no more leak.just one concern,all these people had 95-00 xj with the inline six. my rig(lol)is a stock amc 85 2door 4x4 auto laredo with the gm 2.8l v6 in it.now i know im blabing on for nothing,so let us get to the point.do i have a oil adapter as in the inline six?can i do my repair as described for the 95-00 models sorry if confusing, cause im confused as hell!!
good day blokes!
dave:wstupid:

I think that the principal is the same but it take different parts. Had an older Chevy V8 and changed from a canister type filter to a screw on type and it needed periodic new o-rings for 20 some years that I had that truck.
Not real familar with the V6 but again I think the principal is the same.

the v6 is not equipped with an adapter. the usual leaks are valve cover gaskets, oil drain plug, intake manifold gaskets, and/or rear main oil seal

jneary said:

the v6 is not equipped with an adapter. the usual leaks are valve cover gaskets, oil drain plug and/or rear main oil seal

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ohhh i like you,it is not the valve cover,but from what i can see there is alot of oil around the drain plug,and how can i check the rear main oil seal?sorry my first jeep and not to familliar with it! thanks

clean the area best possible and watch for where it leaks while running. if it the rear main, it will leak at the bell housing, but if it is the intake manifold, oil will run down the back of the engine but you will be able to see an oil trail starting higher by the rear of the cylinder heads. kinda difficult in the cold and on the ground though

ok i will do this thank you,it is so hard to find info for the gm block here.i was thinking of using bardhalls it is supposed to stop this(yeah sure it will)also i am running pennzoils high milege 5w30 and matching filter. should i just go with a synthetic?i am really clueless here thanks in advance

dave

Check again. If it's the 2.8L V6, it's very common to have a leak at the rear of one or both heads; where the intake manifold, valve cover, and cylinder head all come together. One of the flaws of this engine - I had one in a Cavalier that leaked like a sieve, and I could never get it tightened up. I fixed the leak by getting rid of the vehicle.

synthetic will leak easier, and its pricier. if it is the drain plug, just get a new seal from the dealer. a good gm dealer should have the drain plug gasket for that.

jneary said:

synthetic will leak easier, and its pricier. if it is the drain plug, just get a new seal from the dealer. a good gm dealer should have the drain plug gasket for that.

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really? is it hard to change it or should i take it to a shop? thanks

dave

85xjproject said:

really? is it hard to change it or should i take it to a shop? thanks

dave

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If it's the drain plug, just give it a seeing-to at your next oil change. Fibre gaskets are about best - but I tend to put a light coat of RTV Black on the drain plug threads before I put it back in. Answers the purpose neatly, and it's easier to remove the next time.

The advantage to a fibre gasket is simple - any oil that makes it past the threads will soak into the gasket, which makes it swell. This effectively tightens the screw for you, which makes the thread seal a bit more tight. I still prefer RTV on the threads, tho.

when you remove the drain plug, your oil will run out, remove the old seal from the drain plug and install the new one and tighten it in the pan. then add new oil