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Hack & Tap vs. SYE

crazyjim

crazyjim

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SoCal
I'm up in the air right now, I've got a $300 gift certificate to Advance Adapters, I was planning on buying a SYE with it and calling it a day.

However, a buddy called me up, and told me he knew of a guy looking to get rid of a Hack & Tap with an RE driveshaft. If I went that route I could use the gift cert for other things.

My question is this, would I be better off just going with the SYE? Or is the Hack & Tap just as good?
 
if youve got the coin, id say go with the true SYE. i know people that run the hack n tap with no problems. but i feel more comfortable knowing that i have an enitrely new shaft that is a lot stronger then it was before. the hack n tap and the SYE do the same thing, but i feel better off knowing that i dont have a plate that is bolted onto my output shaft with my driveshaft bolted to that.

if uve got the money, go for the AA SYE.
 
But, what about being locked in the rear. I've heard mixed opinions that the ol' H&T takes a poopy with a locker.
 
Del00XJ said:
But, what about being locked in the rear. I've heard mixed opinions that the ol' H&T takes a poopy with a locker.
Click to expand...

why?
50/50% split torque from 2 wheels or 100% torque from 1 wheel through the driveshaft.

i must be seeing this wrong???
 
There was a thread somewhere a while back where people were saying the H&T is weaker and not a good decision if you lock your rear. Not for me, I've been running one with a Detroit no problem but just stating some things that I've heard in the past. Sorry guys :doh:
 
How many rear output shafts on t-cases have you seen fail? How the hell is a locker in the rear going to make any difference? A hack-n-tap is just fine for most people unless you plan on really going hard core. People just need to use a little common sense.
 
I hack and tapped mine and I could not be happier. I used the coin I saved by going H&T to buy a custom driveshaft (bought used off a local NAXJA member and had it shortened and rebalanced). I beat it against rocks, snow, and other stuff at Cleghorn two weeks ago and it held up fine with no difficulties.

I have trouble understanding people who won't buy a H&T because "it's too weak" and then run a stock front DS in the rear. :huh:

EDIT: I see that the H&T comes with a driveshaft, if it's a good deal I would say go with that and use your gift certificate for something else.
 
The reason why I would not go H&T is because I have seen the output shaft split and break off. Is it so common? Maybe not a frequent occurrence but I dont wanna be that guy who does break on the trail.

Now I know that FarmerMatt runs a H&T on his CAT XJ buggy and he abuses the crap out of it.

If done properly, it can work well for you. I'd rather have the piece of mind.
 
Over the years I have run both, The H&T is more than adequate for the job. I just don't really see the need for the HD output shaft, there are many other things that would fail long before the standard output shaft went belly up!
If you are getting a good deal on the H&T With a driveshaft included go for it! & use the cash for something else
 
jaburk said:
How many rear output shafts on t-cases have you seen fail? How the hell is a locker in the rear going to make any difference? A hack-n-tap is just fine for most people unless you plan on really going hard core. People just need to use a little common sense.
Click to expand...
I have seen 5+ failures of the H&T output.
Sometimes the hole isn't perfectly centered with a punch...somtimes the metal fatigues due to improper cooling when drilling...sometimes the washer that loads the 'plate' gets loose and allows a 'cavitation'...sometimes the bolt backs out...
That being said, I ran a H&T for 2 years with 31s and a rear locker.
When I went to 4.88s and 33s, I upgraded to an HD SYE within a month.
I never broke the H&T, but I was always nervous.
 
Hmm.. I've never seen one fail :dunno: I know leaving the stock output shaft in place is the "weak link" on the transfer case but I feel if you're even remotely competent with your install it'll be fine.. There's more than enough proven H&T success stories out there... I wheel 37" Sticky tires w/ 17" beadlocks and 5.13's... no worries here...

I am currently saving for an Atlas/Stak though :party: ... but I surely wouldnt drop extra money on a HD SYE when he can pick up a H&T & shaft for probably less than the SYE alone...
 
the output shaft becomes the weak link when you add larger tires and DONT regear for the change in tire diameter.
 
crazyjim said:
Wow... looks like we're split RIGHT down the middle here... I think I'll just save the headache and go with the AA SYE. Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
If you wouldn't feel comfortable with a H&T then by all means, get the "real deal." I did some research before I did mine and none of the local guys that I talked to ever had problems with the RE H&T kit, so I feel perfectly comfortable running one. I realize that eventually I will wear out the splines on the output shaft, but that's a long way (5+ years) down the road. Maybe by then I will be rich and able to afford an Atlas.
 
So I'm curious, how is the yoke mounted to the 231's shaft if not bolted like a H&T? Has it been welded? Or is it just a H&T with a shaft already H&T'ed?
 
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