• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

4.10's and a lock-right - whatcha think?

ttrider

NAXJA Forum User
Location
conyers, GA
so i'm getting ready to do gearing..i was going to wait and either go with the super 35 or a d44, but some friends and other people i've gone riding with are convincing me i dont need to..one is running 4.56's and 35s and said he's never had a problem with his d35.. so thats pretty much enough convincing for me to run 4.10's and a lockright on 33's

i'm thinking im going to go with the kit from rusty's for $410.00 that has both ring and pinion sets and overhaul kits..i mean, im looking for affordability over anything..i'm 18 and way strapped for cash..i'm also getting mixed opinions about carriers too. some people are telling me i can run the carriers i have now with no issues, some are telling me i need to replace the front only, rear is OK, and the other 33.33333333% are telllin me that i need both carriers. so can somebody throw a little guidance my way? thanks a million guys
here's what i'm currently working with
-1997 sport - rusty's 4.5" spring pack kit - d30,d35 with open diffs and 3.07 gearing (ax-15 trans)
-about $700.00 max on parts

heres what im planning on going to
-4.10's front and rear
-lockright in the rear
-front u-joint replacement- - seperate issues:)

FYI - i did search these topics and found a lot of helpful info, but i also like input that relates DIRECTLY to my jeep...

let me know what ya'll think about all this and if there are any less expensive places to get the parts.. the $410.00 kit is about the best deal i could find..but if anyone knows of cheaper, tell me quick! i'm trying to get all this ready to go by the weekend of the 1st..ride at river rock in m-ville!
Thanks!
 
I know you are going to hear this from everyone else...

Don't waste your money on the d35.

Go to the junkyard and snag an 8.25 out of a 97+ XJ. If you can find one out of a newer model 4-cyl 5-spd then you have your 4.10s and 29-spline shafts.

Bolt in beef. I don't know anyone that has survived on more than 31s with a d35. My friend did a small burnout on the street and blew it up, and that was open on 31" ATs. Not MTs or anything.
 
I dont understand why post like this keep coming up but oh well... and everyone claims they've searched high and low for the anwers.. come on now..

I've never even remotely considered regearing a D35 but I believe you're going to need (2) new open carriers for the front and rear. Also $410.00 for gears/install kit's pretty freaking steep IMO but that's typical of Rustys.. Give DC4WD.com a call... I bet he can get you gears/install kits/ and carriers for that..

Now back to your idea that running a D35 w/ 4.10's and a Lockright is safe b/c your friend's do it.. Well hopefully all you guys can learn to change shafts together on the trail also... I understand the fact of not having a bunch of $$ to dump into it at this time... Pick up a 8.25 from a junk yard.. they're all over the place down here.. IT may cost you $150.00 more but when the D35 explodes you're going to have to do it anyway.. Also it's cheaper than setting up gears all over again when the turdy five craps out... Just my $0.02
 
i knew the 8.25 was stronger...but is it really that much stronger to go through the effort to swap it out?
just kinda seems like driving 5 extra miles for gas that's a penny cheaper

maybe i misunderstood the strength of the 8.25
 
ttrider said:
i knew the 8.25 was stronger...but is it really that much stronger to go through the effort to swap it out?
just kinda seems like driving 5 extra miles for gas that's a penny cheaper

maybe i misunderstood the strength of the 8.25

You're right... hasta Does everyone you wheel with run a D35? The 29spline 8.25 is night/day difference compared w/ a D35.. Also it's an insanely difficult task to swap on in.. I mean you have to unbolt like 4 U-bolts, 2 shock bolts and 2 u-joint straps... but you may have to lenghten your rear DS..
 
Yes the 8.25 (29-spline) is worth swapping out for. Besides, swapping a rear axle isn't that hard to do.

7.5" ring gear vs. 8.25"
2.5" tubes vs 3" tubes
27-spline 1.17" shafts vs 29-spline 1.21" shafts (i think, could be 1.19"?)

Also, it's BOLT IN. no welding perches or mounts or anything. You just might need the driveshaft to go with it as the 8.25 pinion is slightly longer than the d35. But if you lift it, you might want to keep your driveshaft.
 
nobody i ride with has a 8.25...its all dana, two running 35's(excluding me), one running 44's, and a CJ with 60's

i'll make some calls to the local junkyards and possible run up to the pull-a-part this weekend..and i'm not saying i don't think its a good idea..i've just heard more of the "stick with a 35 or jump to the 44"
 
IMO anyone that tells you to stick to a Dana 35 must webwheel more than they actually wheel... OR are running 30" tires, open...

I also say jump staight to a Dana 44... but you said money was a factor and the next best thing is a direct bolt in 29 spline Chrysler 8.25..
 
Im runnin 33's open with a stroker. And I flog the crap out of it. To my credit my 9" swap is only a month or so away though. And I never really considered regearing the 35 as an option.
 
The ONLY thing a D-35 has over the 8.25(29 spline) in stock form is ground clearance. The 8.25 was never originaly intended for off-road use so it has that lip under it that catches every rock! The D-35 was intended for off-road use and will slide over stuff better.

A quick shave with a angle grinder and cut-off wheel to get rid of the lip, toss the whimpy stock cover it will peel back or dent easily, and then add a RuffStuff cover and you are good to go!

I recommend relocating the shock mounts higher as well and if you are real serious about your wheelin' weld the tubes and add a truss kit for some added insurance.

I passed up a D-44 in the junk yard yesterday due to the fact my 8.25 has not let me down yet, and if it does I'll get another one out of the shed and build it up and beat on it.
 
thanks for the links, they all helped out!
yeah,i see know what ya'll are talkin about with the 8.25 and i'll probably end up going that route.
but in all honesty...i beat the daylights out of my d35 right now on and offroad-way, way harder than i should- i've ran 33's, 32's and 31's on this setup and i've never encountered an issue. i'm not arguing the d35's inferiority to basically every other axle in existence...but it isn't a pushover either in my opinion.

thanks for the tips and links
 
ttrider said:
thanks for the links, they all helped out!
yeah,i see know what ya'll are talkin about with the 8.25 and i'll probably end up going that route.
but in all honesty...i beat the daylights out of my d35 right now on and offroad-way, way harder than i should- i've ran 33's, 32's and 31's on this setup and i've never encountered an issue. i'm not arguing the d35's inferiority to basically every other axle in existence...but it isn't a pushover either in my opinion.

thanks for the tips and links

running it open is one thing. When you lock it without upgrading to alloys your going to have issues
 
I'm not saying it's a pushover, I'm just saying wouldn't you rather spend the money on a better quality axle?

I'm not saying go out and get a custom built d60 or something, but an 8.25 is factory and beefier. It's also cheap to bolt in, most parts yards sell axle assemblies for 100-200 dollars. (I got my XJ d44 for 125 :shhh:).
 
yeah..i definitely see where you're coming from and i've already called around about an axle...and yeah, i'd rather make the right investments the first time
which is exactly why i made this post..so i could hear everyone's thoughts on whether i was about to spend my money wisely or not
 
Now this is really draggin your a$$ around. No excuse not to upgrade there!

rip1.jpg
 
Back
Top