Teaser Dana 60 Build

[DrSockMonkey]

Well I picked up my new rear axle on Saturday. It's a Dana 60 with 4.88 gears (open) and Disc brake conversion. The WMS to WMS is 64 1/4". The plan is to narrow it by around 4". I will also be shaving the bottom for clearence, I have seen guys shave 60's to near dana 44 clearance. I will upgrade the Chevy 3/4 ton calipers to Eldorado Calipers with built in Parking brake mechanism. I will upgrade to 35 spline Chromoly shafts and an ARB locker. I imagine this project will take a couple months due to money constraints. But, I would rather take 2 months and have it done right the FIRST time than do it twice.

Here it is in the back of my good buddies pickup.

http://i32.tinypic.com/f1ikw7.jpg
Does any one see anything wrong with this picture?
http://i30.tinypic.com/32zq2dy.jpg
Hubs removed.
http://i32.tinypic.com/qyb7du.jpg
Carrier and pinion removed.
http://i30.tinypic.com/2czd73r.jpg

I will be making the housing narrowing tools on the lathe at work tonight. And will be chopping off the spindles later this week to bore them out to accept the 35 spline 1.5" shafts.

Jeremy

[Metal Thrasher]

Nice pad install! I sold auto parts in retail stores for years. About every second year you'd get someone bringing in a noisy set of pads with wear on the wrong side.

[fubar XJ]

Sweet. What's the 60 out of?

[DrSockMonkey]

Sweet. What's the 60 out of?
a 78 ramcharger, but originally a 69 powerwagon. I think that is what he said,

[fubar XJ]

What spline count are the stock axles?

[DrSockMonkey]

Nice pad install! I sold auto parts in retail stores for years. About every second year you'd get someone bringing in a noisy set of pads with wear on the wrong side.
These guys had at least 10 wheeling rigs from full size to geo trackers, and seemed to know what they were doing. When after pulling the axles the guy drove/drug his ramcharger to the backyard on the front wheels, I thought Alcohol may be a factor in this pad being backwards...

[DrSockMonkey]

What spline count are the stock axles?
30 spline

[Avanteone]

Good luck finding those Eldorado calipers /w the parking brake mechanism.... unless you've already got a source and would care to share????? :shhh: :)

[DrSockMonkey]

Good luck finding those Eldorado calipers /w the parking brake mechanism.... unless you've already got a source and would care to share????? :shhh: :)
Hmm, did the people at schucks lie to me when they said they were $69 with $10 core? I am assuming by your reaction they did. Perhaps a drive shaft brake like you got then, how much did that cost, or rather how much would that cost me?:rolleyes:

[Avanteone]

Did you ask the Schucks people if they actually HAD them anywhere? I tried buying a set a couple of months ago. I buy from Schucks, Napa, Olympic, and a few other very large suppliers. I think I found one side only back east somewhere. The only option I had was a used set from Cadillac King auto recycling in Southern CA and then having them rebuilt.

J

[DrSockMonkey]

Did you ask the Schucks people if they actually HAD them anywhere? I tried buying a set a couple of months ago. I buy from Schucks, Napa, Olympic, and a few other very large suppliers. I think I found one side only back east somewhere. The only option I had was a used set from Cadillac King auto recycling in Southern CA and then having them rebuilt.

J
Napa said they had some in their warehouse in florida. @ $89 ea

[mud1059]

I have some questions....

What setup do you run now? ie tires, stroker, big block swap on 42's, lift blah blah blah
Your aspirations?
How much you spent so far?


I see no reason on this planet for you to run a Dana 60 anything. Other people yes, but aren't you only on radial 31's? I think you'd have been fine dumping $600 into a 8.25 and never had to worry about it. You're looking at a $1800+ rearend here.

I'm not trying to sound like a prick and I am curious where your goals lie to try and steer a lost soul in the right direction. Anybody can dump their money where they please, but I guess I just don't see the point here.

All this of course unless you do have aspirations for huge powerplant, ultra low gears, and a grippy set of tall, heavy tires.

[DrSockMonkey]

Prick away my friend!

Currently I am running 33's
The goal to run around 37's after a diesel conversion with dana 44 or 60 up front. So far I am into my build $200. I anticipate around $1700-1800 total as well on the D60. I will also be doing a clayton 4 link rear. Please don't think I am gonna run 31's with a D60:lecture: I have always wanted to do a big build but never had the guts. It will take time to do it all but in the end I will have a rig that is uniquely mine and be a feel good accomplishment. I appreciate your words or warning. Feel free at anytime to throw in advice or comments.

Jeremy

I have some questions....

What setup do you run now? ie tires, stroker, big block swap on 42's, lift blah blah blah
Your aspirations?
How much you spent so far?


I see no reason on this planet for you to run a Dana 60 anything. Other people yes, but aren't you only on radial 31's? I think you'd have been fine dumping $600 into a 8.25 and never had to worry about it. You're looking at a $1800+ rearend here.

I'm not trying to sound like a prick and I am curious where your goals lie to try and steer a lost soul in the right direction. Anybody can dump their money where they please, but I guess I just don't see the point here.

All this of course unless you do have aspirations for huge powerplant, ultra low gears, and a grippy set of tall, heavy tires.

[DrSockMonkey]

Well I wasn't able to get at the lathe tonight so I came home and with the help of my older brother cut the spindles off. The main goal was to get the cut on the housing square and identical on both sides. The spindles will be turned down on a lathe to the correct length. The spindles will also be chamfered and bored out at the same time.

Here is cut #1
http://i29.tinypic.com/29nbhb5.jpg
Here is cut #2

http://i29.tinypic.com/118m3is.jpg

Both Cuts turned out GREAT! my brother was a machinist in a past life so this really helped in the prep phase. Only problem we had was the cutting disc got glazed 90% of the way through the second end. My brother asked if I had a dresser, and I got the one from my grinder. And voila! it started to cut like butter, or something a bit harder.

Jeremy

[90exjay]

If your gonna build a new axle for the front, might as well do another 60.
Are you gonna have custom axle shafts made? I wasn't aware of any stock or aftermarket narrow 60 shafts?

Sean

[DrSockMonkey]

If your gonna build a new axle for the front, might as well do another 60.
Are you gonna have custom axle shafts made? I wasn't aware of any stock or aftermarket narrow 60 shafts?

Sean
I am going to do aftermarket chromoly custom length. $164 ea side. I would LOVE to do a 60 Front but at $1200 for a HP60 with nothing done to it?!?! I will wait and see if something comes up for less. Hopefully it will. I think I may start with with a HP D44 and sell it when a 60 comes along. Or I could just go with an aftermarket housing like a rock jock.

Jeremy

[CanMan]

It would be almost as cheap to start off with an aftermarket center section for a front D60. Buy some DOM tubes, aftermarket C's, knuckles, ect... I looked into buying a Ford HP60, but at at least 1k for an axle that will need narrowed, new gears, locker, custom shafts, rebuilt kingpins, brakes, wheel bearings, ect... you will end up more in the end. A HP44 would be cool, but you can build a 60 for $500-$1000 more, depending on what route you go.

Ill have about $600 into my 14 bolt, with discs, 5.38's, full install kit, shaved and a plate welded. Yes, it will be wider than your 60 by a few inches over all, but a whole hell of a lot cheaper. It does help a whole hell of alot when you do your own work.

[DrSockMonkey]

Well if I went that 14 bolt FW "route" except 4.88 gears full width stock shafts it would cost me umm.. $200 plus scrap metal for the shave. Now who's spendning too much?:twak:
It would be almost as cheap to start off with an aftermarket center section for a front D60. Buy some DOM tubes, aftermarket C's, knuckles, ect... I looked into buying a Ford HP60, but at at least 1k for an axle that will need narrowed, new gears, locker, custom shafts, rebuilt kingpins, brakes, wheel bearings, ect... you will end up more in the end. A HP44 would be cool, but you can build a 60 for $500-$1000 more, depending on what route you go.

Ill have about $600 into my 14 bolt, with discs, 5.38's, full install kit, shaved and a plate welded. Yes, it will be wider than your 60 by a few inches over all, but a whole hell of a lot cheaper. It does help a whole hell of alot when you do your own work.

[mud1059]

I feel a wee bit better now :) What kind of diesel? I saw an old bronco (67-77 type) out at Evan's once running a Cummins. Dude had 10 or 12 inch lift springs giving half the lift. Each wrap of the coil was literally 1/4" from touching the next at all times. Crazy amount of weight.

Do what John did and buy a center section, some tube and inner Cs. That's the only way to build a P'side 60 - especially for custom width.

OR

You could run a doubler (Think box4rocks) and not flip it. Just get a Chevy D60.

edit: I type slow - shut up! Also, Eli-Just run the dualie wheels to counter the width :)

[CanMan]

Well if I went that 14 bolt FW "route" except 4.88 gears full width stock shafts it would cost me umm.. $200 plus scrap metal for the shave. Now who's spendning too much?:twak:

I anticipate around $1700-1800 total as well on the D60.


:dunno:

[DrSockMonkey]

Well I have been looking at 3 different diesels.
Cummins 4BTA 3.9 TD
Izuzu 4BD1T 3.9 TD
GM 6.2l or 6.5l TD

Cummins is too big in IMO 762lbs
Isuzu is OK but heavey 700 ish lbs
GM V8 is Big but lighter and requires no Adapters. -700lbs
I fear the 6.5L Turbo would be too big with the turbo. But I can hook it up to a 700r4 then to a Chevy S10 np231c. This is ALL still in the planning stage.

I will have to research the custom front 60.


I feel a wee bit better now :) What kind of diesel? I saw an old bronco (67-77 type) out at Evan's once running a Cummins. Dude had 10 or 12 inch lift springs giving half the lift. Each wrap of the coil was literally 1/4" from touching the next at all times. Crazy amount of weight.

Do what John did and buy a center section, some tube and inner Cs. That's the only way to build a P'side 60 - especially for custom width.

OR

You could run a doubler (Think box4rocks) and not flip it. Just get a Chevy D60.

[DrSockMonkey]

:dunno:
I'm saying if I went full width no locker and no custom shafts I would be at $200 compared to your $600 :viking:

[CanMan]

I'm saying if I went full width no locker and no custom shafts I would be at $200 compared to your $600 :viking:

Gotcha.

[mud1059]

http://www.thedieselpage.com/duramax/4-5lduramax.htm

Dream small.

[DrSockMonkey]

Dream is right:gee: I would love somethinig like that. I love the turbo on top. Eli mentioned to beware of the hot turbo coming in contact with water during water fordings. This makes me want to lean away from turbos. But boy do I love hearing them spool...:loveu:
http://www.thedieselpage.com/duramax/4-5lduramax.htm

Dream small.

[mud1059]

He's right. Why a diesel though? What's the attraction? There's no reason to go through the hassle unless it IS turbo'd though.. I do believe you're thinking of a sport turbo as opposed to a diesel turbo, maybe. If a diesel is set up right, you only hear it if you're trying to. The imports have that sexy blow off valve sound.

Also, everyone swaps the 6.2 and/or 6.5 out for a gas engine for a reason. They blow arse.

[DrSockMonkey]

He's right. Why a diesel though? What's the attraction? There's no reason to go through the hassle unless it IS turbo'd though.. I do believe you're thinking of a sport turbo as opposed to a diesel turbo, maybe. If a diesel is set up right, you only hear it if you're trying to. The imports have that sexy blow off valve sound.

Also, everyone swaps the 6.2 and/or 6.5 out for a gas engine for a reason. They blow arse.

Good god man, have some faith in me... I have owned both a diesel 1999 dodge 2500 cummins 5.9l 6bt
And a gas turbo Audi S4. I know the difference. I am not talking about wastegate blow off. I am talking about that lovely turbo whistle, Also experienced on firetucks when I was in the fireservice. As for why diesel? better gas mileage, bio diesel WVO, I have owned a bunch of diesels and love em. I know a guy who is alergic to diesel, isn't that sad? Who shat in your wheaties today? the GM diesels are fine. If I wanted monster horsepower I would build a a SBC gas and get super crappy mileage. This is not what I want.

Jeremy

[DrSockMonkey]

I did some research and many people have said crossing water with a turbo is fine if it's not super hot. Here is a fella with a turbo who does many crossings. He says this is one of his shallower crossings.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y198/toychevy/beanholemarch023385x289.jpg

Does anyone have any real experience either way?

[IXNAYXJ]

Also, everyone swaps the 6.2 and/or 6.5 out for a gas engine for a reason. They blow arse.The 96+ Vortec 6.5 Turbo was actually a pretty damn good engine, and made a bucket load of torque. 430 fl/lb in 1996 was more than anyone else. I put 165k on one with very few issues.

Jeremy, I debated doing a diesel swap into IXNAY mk II, but steered away due to the weight. The ideal solution I came up with was just too expensive; 2.8 CRD or 3.0 CRD or Blutec. They're compact, light (relative to a 4BT) and aren't too terrible to swap. Unfortunately, they're a lot more complex than the other motors you're thinking about.

I just can't get my head around 700+ lbs sitting out over the front axle, not to mention COG.

-----Matt-----

[DrSockMonkey]

Arb bumper 100 lbs
8000lb winch 106 lbs
total 206lbs

Novak adapters reported weight of the 4.0
515lbs complete
GM V8
under 700
thats 185 lbs

less than a winch and bumper. And harbor freight sells those really small and light weight 3000lb winches, just get like three of those and your set. Need any welding done?:twak:

But seriously, with planning I don't think it would be that much worse. I would be happy to remove my basket from my tophat. build a lighter bumper, have my winch on a reciever stored in the back? Granted I would have higher cog, but no higher than you with your roll cage. :laugh3: Now I suppose your going to tell me your cage is actualy beneficial. Sheesh...

Jeremy

The 96+ Vortec 6.5 Turbo was actually a pretty damn good engine, and made a bucket load of torque. 430 fl/lb in 1996 was more than anyone else. I put 165k on one with very few issues.

Jeremy, I debated doing a diesel swap into IXNAY mk II, but steered away due to the weight. The ideal solution I came up with was just too expensive; 2.8 CRD or 3.0 CRD or Blutec. They're compact, light (relative to a 4BT) and aren't too terrible to swap. Unfortunately, they're a lot more complex than the other motors you're thinking about.

I just can't get my head around 700+ lbs sitting out over the front axle, not to mention COG.

-----Matt-----

[mud1059]

And here I was about to apologize for underestimating you ...:) I quasi recommend not running a cluster of 3k HF winches for the purpose of recovery of your rig. You just don't have enough hands. ;) Matt may be right on the 6.5's, I have no personal experience, just that of what I read.

edit: I couldn't spell

[WaXJ_Skier]

And here I was about to apologize for underestimating you ...:) I quasi recommend not running a cluster of 3k HF winches for the purpose of recovery of your rig. You just don't have enough hands. ;) Matt may be right on the 6.5's, I have no personal experience, just that of what I read.

edit: I couldn't spell

what about running a cluster of wenches? :viking:

[DrSockMonkey]

Well got some time in on the lathe tonight, meant to get some in the works pics but forgot. Here is some before and after of the spindles.

Before trim and Chamfer
http://i25.tinypic.com/xf89l3.jpg


After some time on the lathe. I will need to increase the chamfer for better penetration when welding. Overall pretty happy.
http://i30.tinypic.com/iqd64o.jpg
lt was dissapointing finding I have tapered spindles and will NOT be able to bore out for 35 spline shafts. No worries though, The actual narrowing is near free, and Dana 60 housings are cheap. I will respline my stock shafts and shorten them. No ARB for this housing, maybe a lockright.

Jeremy

[DrSockMonkey]

Why only Quasi? :cheers:

And here I was about to apologize for underestimating you ...:) I quasi recommend not running a cluster of 3k HF winches for the purpose of recovery of your rig. You just don't have enough hands. ;) Matt may be right on the 6.5's, I have no personal experience, just that of what I read.

edit: I couldn't spell

[DrSockMonkey]

what about running a cluster of wenches? :viking:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/42/108980225_f04e0e2f3d.jpg

[DrSockMonkey]

Can somebody move this thread to modified tech? My apologies, it has turned into a build thread.


Here is a movie I uploaded showing why spindle to carrier bearing alignment requires tools.
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2zoayd1&s=3

So I am half way done with my alignment tools. I just need to turn my pucks for the carrier bearing positions.
Here is a pic of the spindle alignment insert. I still need to remove that big chunk on the end.
http://i32.tinypic.com/aepts8.jpg

Here is the alignment rod in the insert.
http://i28.tinypic.com/fyidck.jpg
Here it is with the spindle nice and snug on the insert.
http://i26.tinypic.com/2ebx3wm.jpg
Jeremy

[JeepFreak21]

Can somebody move this thread to modified tech? My apologies, it has turned into a build thread.


Here is a movie I uploaded showing why spindle to carrier bearing alignment requires tools.
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2zoayd1&s=3

So I am half way done with my alignment tools. I just need to turn my pucks for the carrier bearing positions.
Here is a pic of the spindle alignment insert. I still need to remove that big chunk on the end.
http://i32.tinypic.com/aepts8.jpg

Here is the alignment rod in the insert.
http://i28.tinypic.com/fyidck.jpg
Here it is with the spindle nice and snug on the insert.
http://i26.tinypic.com/2ebx3wm.jpg
Jeremy

What'cha gonna do with those when you're done? http://www.slicky.net/smilies/fingersx.gif
Billy

[Waterhammer]

Good stuff. Keep up with the pics. You're answering a lot of questions I had...

[DrSockMonkey]

What'cha gonna do with those when you're done? http://www.slicky.net/smilies/fingersx.gif
Billy
WelI, I thought it was obvious, but for you... :dunce:

Weld it all together to make yard art.:D

[DrSockMonkey]

Good stuff. Keep up with the pics. You're answering a lot of questions I had...

Here is a pic of Carrier bearing pucks, rod, and spindle insert. And the spindle too.
http://i25.tinypic.com/14bhjpz.jpg

I will try to take some pics of it in the housing tonight.

[DrSockMonkey]

Here are some pics of the parts in/on the housing

Here are the pucks and rod in the housing.
http://i27.tinypic.com/5pg9j4.jpg
Here again from different angle.
http://i26.tinypic.com/2ps0gf9.jpg
Here it is with the spindle aligned.
http://i31.tinypic.com/f1a5n7.jpg
Looks really good. I need to do some clean up on my alignment tools and then I will position everything up and tack it into place. Then it will be off to my neigborhood Welder to have him burn it home. I do not feel confident welding it myself. Mostly because I don't think my 110v welder has got the juice to get good penetration.

[XJ_ranger]

all the coolness of a narrowed axle, all the clearance of a d60, all the 30spline ness of a d44...

call up Spidertrax and get some housing ends...
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl;jsessionid=ac112b2a1f436c5fb75d6720442fa971ba c2a8668050.e3eSbNyQc3mLe34Pa38Ta38Rchb0?it=A&id=2153

and some unit bearings...

just PLEASE dont run 30 spline stock junk when you've done all the work to run 35 spline...

maybe find some 14bolt spindles?

[DrSockMonkey]

all the coolness of a narrowed axle, all the clearance of a d60, all the 30spline ness of a d44...

call up Spidertrax and get some housing ends...
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl;jsessionid=ac112b2a1f436c5fb75d6720442fa971ba c2a8668050.e3eSbNyQc3mLe34Pa38Ta38Rchb0?it=A&id=2153

and some unit bearings...

just PLEASE dont run 30 spline stock junk when you've done all the work to run 35 spline...

maybe find some 14bolt spindles?
With a shave it will be clearance of a D44, coolness of a narrowed axle, 30 splineness of a D44, and don't forget Full floating stronger housing. Hey 3 out of 4 aint bad. :laugh3:
Seriously though, Dana 60's are like $50-$75 all day long. At the very worst this is a practice housing. The whole point for me in this type of build is budget. I paid $200 for the axle with 4.88 gears and disc conversion. I would have paid that for the gears and disc conversion. So as I said, at worst this housing is great practice. I've got the tools now and frankly that was some of the most work. To be honest I cannot believe how many people offer their "advice". I've seen your threads so I know you walk the talk. But others seem to have little positive to offer. Anyway I am Really happy with this project as I wanted to see if this was something I could do, turns out I can. :D

So Anyways...

I decided to go ahead and tack up the drivers side tonight. I chamfered the housing side with a grinder. The grinding went better than I thought, cleaner than I was expecting. IT was a little weird lining everything up and not having the tube be exactly aligned.

http://i32.tinypic.com/sljo03.jpg

I dropped in the carrier and slid on the hub then proceeded to slide in the axle shaft. But for some reason it wouldn't go in in all the way, oh yeah it too long. :laugh3: Everything looks great so far.

Jeremy

[JeepFreak21]

WelI, I thought it was obvious, but for you... :dunce:

Weld it all together to make yard art.:D

I mean the jig setup... wanna rent it out? :D
Billy

[XJ_ranger]

To be honest I cannot believe how many people offer their "advice". I've seen your threads so I know you walk the talk. But others seem to have little positive to offer. Anyway I am Really happy with this project as I wanted to see if this was something I could do, turns out I can. :D

ahhh... the old 'proof of concept' projects :D

fair enough...

and what do I really know - Im running stock 31spline ford 9 junk! :dunce:

[DrSockMonkey]

Oop! my bad:twak:

Probably be cheaper for you to buy the bar stock and me ship you pucks. I want to make annother set using 1.5" bar stock. More rigidity and better accuracy. I think I will make a new set of pucks/inserts for the non tapered spindles. That way I can keep this set for applications narrower than 1.5".

Jeremy

I mean the jig setup... wanna rent it out? :D
Billy

[DrSockMonkey]

Well, I tacked up the other spindle, didn't look right. ground off the welds and tried again. Looked better but still bothered me. Started to realize that with having both welded on I could bolt on the hubs/rotors and take some measurements. The reality that I could soon find I was not doing as well as I thought started to sink in. Well, I bolted up the rotors and measured all over. Top, Bottom, Back, and in between. Not at the pinion though. The good news is the greatest deviation from any two spots is 3/32. My wife helped me with the Sine Cosine action and using Nasa's Sine table came up with the greatest possible deviation between rotors is .082 of a degree. For my first whack at it I am very pleased.

Taking Measurements
http://i29.tinypic.com/eqw4s9.jpg

And here is the end WMS 2 WMS result.
http://i29.tinypic.com/2whi1dg.jpg
60 1/8"

1/8 off of projected but I figure there has to be atleast 1/16" added in how the tape measure is routed to measure WMS. So being within 1/16" of target is satisfying.

Jeremy

[WaXJ_Skier]

Well, I tacked up the other spindle, didn't look right. ground off the welds and tried again. Looked better but still bothered me. Started to realize that with having both welded on I could bolt on the hubs/rotors and take some measurements. The reality that I could soon find I was not doing as well as I thought started to sink in. Well, I bolted up the rotors and measured all over. Top, Bottom, Back, and in between. Not at the pinion though. The good news is the greatest deviation from any two spots is 3/32. My wife helped me with the Sine Cosine action and using Nasa's Sine table came up with the greatest possible deviation between rotors is .082 of a degree. For my first whack at it I am very pleased.

Taking Measurements
http://i29.tinypic.com/eqw4s9.jpg

And here is the end WMS 2 WMS result.
http://i29.tinypic.com/2whi1dg.jpg
60 1/8"

1/8 off of projected but I figure there has to be atleast 1/16" added in how the tape measure is routed to measure WMS. So being within 1/16" of target is satisfying.

Jeremy

Sweet! when you going to start working on a front?

[mud1059]

To be honest I cannot believe how many people offer their "advice"..... But others seem to have little positive to offer.
Jeremy

I admit it, I have doubted you from the beginning, but truth be told it was less than two months ago you were asking for help on a D35 you were scared to open! It's turning out MUCH better than I anticipated though, FWIW.

[DrSockMonkey]

Fair enough my friend, I hadn't thought of it in those terms. And thanks.
I admit it, I have doubted you from the beginning, but truth be told it was less than two months ago you were asking for help on a D35 you were scared to open! It's turning out MUCH better than I anticipated though, FWIW.

[DrSockMonkey]

Sweet! when you going to start working on a front?
I can't decide whether to go HPD44 or D60. I want go D60 but budget is the key. I don't think I want to buy aftermarket parts like knuckles, or housings but who knows. I found a Dodge D60 2001 for cheap but it's got the CAD on it. Low pinion doesn't bother me so much cause the Dana 60 is the Highest low pinion and the lowest high pinion. The pinion is within a couple inches of centerline. I am waiting to hear back on a HP44 HD. I think that is the way I will go if the guy still has it. Who knows... I will keep my eyes open. One thing is for sure, I will look DAMN stupid rolling with a Dana 60 rear and a Dana 30 front :laugh:

Jeremy

Oh and a design update, I plan on machining the back of the hubs so I can press on tone rings and keep my ABS. I know most don't like it, but this is my daily driver and I want things to still work like stock. I will have a switch to turn off ABS if I want when wheeling as I have heard many say they don't like it.

[Gravesdiggerxj]

maybe find some 14bolt spindles?

since this is on the theme of junkyard build and you obviously have the ability with your brother to do it....why don't you grab 14bolt spindles and have 14bolt shafts cut down? 14bolt ff's are a dime a dozen...

cool build! carry on

[DrSockMonkey]

since this is on the theme of junkyard build and you obviously have the ability with your brother to do it....why don't you grab 14bolt spindles and have 14bolt shafts cut down? 14bolt ff's are a dime a dozen...

cool build! carry on

Interesting idea, what are the implications with spline count and 14Bolt working with which carrier? Also, what is the shaft size?

[CanMan]

since this is on the theme of junkyard build and you obviously have the ability with your brother to do it....why don't you grab 14bolt spindles and have 14bolt shafts cut down? 14bolt ff's are a dime a dozen...

cool build! carry on

The way the 14 bolt shafts neck down some after the splines, will make it hard to have them be 1.5" 35 spline shafts.

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/DCP_6514.JPG

You could have a D60 carrier machined somehow to accept a 14 bolt side spider gear, and leave them 1.5" 30 spl axles. You might be able to use 2 short side 14 bolt shafts, and be at the width you want. Moser and Dutchman make alloy 14 bolt shafts, you may be able to get them to make you some narrowed ones

You will want DRW hubs. With SRW ones, you may have to narrow the axle even more. SRW hubs are 1.75" per side wider.

.

[TNT]

Well I have been looking at 3 different diesels.
Cummins 4BTA 3.9 TD
Izuzu 4BD1T 3.9 TD
GM 6.2l or 6.5l TD

Cummins is too big in IMO 762lbs
Isuzu is OK but heavey 700 ish lbs
GM V8 is Big but lighter and requires no Adapters. -700lbs
I fear the 6.5L Turbo would be too big with the turbo. But I can hook it up to a 700r4 then to a Chevy S10 np231c. This is ALL still in the planning stage.

I will have to research the custom front 60.


Best engine of the bunch is the Cummins 4BTA 3.9 TD.

Here is one sweet rig.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/TNTACR/The20Rattler.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/TNTACR/Engine20Bay.jpg

Cummins MJ burnout (http://youtube.com/watch?v=KyS9A3jbwLM)

Cummins MJ build-up link (http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=585)

[DrSockMonkey]

Yeah I've talked to the owner and studied his build on 4btswaps.com. I just think it is too heavy and too tall. Not to mention Pricey Noisey and lotsa vibrations :) I still think it would be a great swap though. I'm going for budget and with that GM Diesels, it's cheaper, lighter, and doesn't require costly adapters.

Best engine of the bunch is the Cummins 4BTA 3.9 TD.

Here is one sweet rig.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/TNTACR/The20Rattler.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/TNTACR/Engine20Bay.jpg

Cummins MJ burnout (http://youtube.com/watch?v=KyS9A3jbwLM)

Cummins MJ build-up link (http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=585)

[TNT]

Yeah I've talked to the owner and studied his build on 4btswaps.com. I just think it is too heavy and too tall. Not to mention Pricey Noisey and lotsa vibrations :) I still think it would be a great swap though. I'm going for budget and with that GM Diesels, it's cheaper, lighter, and doesn't require costly adapters.


Thats not that much extra weight. Add a beefy bumper and a 9500 winch to a 4.0 engine and its about the same. My bumper alone weighs 110#'s... That weight is also way further forward.

I like the fact that it is a real hd built diesel that will go 300-600k if maintained correctly and not built too much.

If I go with a diesel I want it to sound like one.

Vibrations chicks dig them.:cool:
Price? I work an an International dealer so it would be the cheapest for me.

I like the 200+ hp and 500#+ of torque and mid 20's to 30 mpg.:cheers:

[DrSockMonkey]

Sounds like too much work. I think I will just do another housing. Maybe the next one will be 14 bolt?

The way the 14 bolt shafts neck down some after the splines, will make it hard to have them be 1.5" 35 spline shafts.

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/DCP_6514.JPG

You could have a D60 carrier machined somehow to accept a 14 bolt side spider gear, and leave them 1.5" 30 spl axles. You might be able to use 2 short side 14 bolt shafts, and be at the width you want. Moser and Dutchman make alloy 14 bolt shafts, you may be able to get them to make you some narrowed ones

You will want DRW hubs. With SRW ones, you may have to narrow the axle even more. SRW hubs are 1.75" per side wider.

.

[DrSockMonkey]

Vibrations chicks dig them.:cool:
Price? I work an an International dealer so it would be the cheapest for me.

Sweet! Gonna hook us all up? Group buy?:confused1 And yes, I am kidding.

Did I mention how much MJ 4BTA spent on the swap? over $15K Another guy who did IH Scout 4BT spent $20k
This is way too much money for me. Granted they did everything first class. But still that's alot of dough. Most of the guys on 4BTswaps.com talk about having at least $10k into their swaps. I will admit it is a bad ass motor. I had a 5.9 and love the power. I just don't love it $10k much. My goal is to have my truck the way I want it for as close to $10K total as possible. I have an excel spreadsheet where I track EVERY penny I spend on it from purchase price to every part I buy. Budget Budget Budget :)

[TNT]

Sounds like too much work. I think I will just do another housing. Maybe the next one will be 14 bolt?


Just get the C&C DRW 14 bolt 63" wide and you won't need to narrow it. A front king pin HP D60 can be narrower to about 63" at the most. They would be perfect for the torque output.

BTW, I just passed on a '87 DRW HP D60 for $400.00. I posted it here but no buddy wanted it so I think it's going on craigs list...

I'm sticking with my 4.0 and using my '77 HP D44 front with a 9" rear that I got for $220.00. I'm building for speed and ride quality is a prerunner type build.

[TNT]

Sweet! Gonna hook us all up? Group buy?:confused1 And yes, I am kidding.

Did I mention how much MJ 4BTA spent on the swap? over $15K Another guy who did IH Scout 4BT spent $20k
This is way too much money for me. Granted they did everything first class. But still that's alot of dough. Most of the guys on 4BTswaps.com talk about having at least $10k into their swaps. I will admit it is a bad ass motor. I had a 5.9 and love the power. I just don't love it $10k much. My goal is to have my truck the way I want it for as close to $10K total as possible. I have an excel spreadsheet where I track EVERY penny I spend on it from purchase price to every part I buy. Budget Budget Budget :)


Sale's just sold a Frito-lays truck for $3500.00 with a fresh engine....

[DrSockMonkey]

Sale's just sold a Frito-lays truck for $3500.00 with a fresh engine....
I have researched this swap to death and am aware of the costs. Let's just leave it at the pluses of the 4BT do not warrant the extra cost or complexity of the swap for me. For others it is clearly worth it. But hey, if all our XJ's were the same what kind of boring world would that be?

[Mr.OverKill]

I have researched this swap to death and am aware of the costs. Let's just leave it at the pluses of the 4BT do not warrant the extra cost or complexity of the swap for me. For others it is clearly worth it. But hey, if all our XJ's were the same what kind of boring world would that be?we would all drive Barbi Jeeps like they do on JU...:roflmao:

[DrSockMonkey]

we would all drive Barbi Jeeps like they do on JU...:roflmao:
Exactly...
Hey a 350 conversion guy. how tight was the engine compartment after the swap? Got pics? Build thread?

Thanks!
Jeremy

[DrSockMonkey]

Well, sorry no pics right now. But a bit of an update. I created a Electrolysis rust removal tub. Many of you probably already know this method. You get a container big enough for your parts and fill it with water. Add washing soda (sodium carbonate) or Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) put you part in and connect the negative side of your low amperage battery charger (2 amps in my case) to the part you want to have the rust removed. Then you put the positive side on a sacrificial pices of metal in the tub. Keeo in a well ventilated area as this process produces Hydrogen and Oxygen. Can take a day or two, but the results are excellent.

I was unable to find a local shop that did axle resplining. So it looks as though I will have to order some custom alloy shafts. A friend of mine who does welding suggested cutting down the shaft on the flange side and rewelding it. So cut the flange off of one and chucked it up in the lathe. I then bored out the center of the flange so I could slide it over the shaft. I put everything together on the axle for fit and tacked it at the correct length. I will be giving it to him on wednesday to see what he can do in the TIG department. I am not convinced that this is going to work well, however I don't feel it is a safety issue being this is a full floating axle.

Now on to the good news. I have found my new front axle. Let me preface by saying again. This is about building on the cheap doing the work myself. And with that said, I am picking up a 2001 dodge low pinion driverside drop Dana 60 from a 2001 2500HD. He had a dana 80 also but that's just silly :confused1

Down sides
1.ball joint not king pin
2.Unit bearing not wheel bearing. ( I can swap out ford spindls and hubs later to correct this)
3.Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) (I think I will get an eliminator kit)
4.No external lockouts.(see #2)

Now before you say this is a piece of junk I have researched and read many guys who run this axle and abuse it and like it. a ford kingpin HP60 is clearly superior, but it's advantages are not worth the extra cost for me. I will be picking up the D60 on wednesday night. I will post up some pictures. It is a SRW front.


Jeremy

[JeepFreak21]

I'd really like to see the results from the electrolysis tub. What happens to grease and dirt in there?
Thanks,
Billy

[DrSockMonkey]

I'd really like to see the results from the electrolysis tub. What happens to grease and dirt in there?
Thanks,
Billy
The stuff that was on the rust just floats to the top of the water. You do need to do a little cleaning. The thick greasejust stays on. but surface oils and grease seem to come off.

[DrSockMonkey]

I originaly saw it on trucks. I looked around and found the clip on youtube also, enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJeXwsl87us&NR=1

[XJ_ranger]

Down sides
1.ball joint not king pin
2.Unit bearing not wheel bearing. ( I can swap out ford spindls and hubs later to correct this)
3.Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) (I think I will get an eliminator kit)
4.No external lockouts.(see #2)


the only down side I see there is the CAD...

I personally wish I could find a way to get unit bearings on my 44...

[JeepFreak21]

the only down side I see there is the CAD...

I personally wish I could find a way to get unit bearings on my 44...

Do a knuckles-out Dana 30 conversion! :laugh2:
Billy

[DrSockMonkey]

the only down side I see there is the CAD...

I personally wish I could find a way to get unit bearings on my 44...
Yeah, i think i will do a one piece inner. But hey, for $250 complete it's a great deal.

[DrSockMonkey]

Do a knuckles-out Dana 30 conversion! :laugh2:
Billy
would it then be a Dana 34 or a Dana 40?:laugh3:

[mud1059]

Where'd you find that for $250!? I was going to suggest a D50 out of the 98ish-2003ish Superdutys for a cheap build.

[DrSockMonkey]

Where'd you find that for $250!? I was going to suggest a D50 out of the 98ish-2003ish Superdutys for a cheap build.
I searched all over the internet looking at dodge forums. I was looking for the knuckles out for another one I found for $150. But found this one for $250 complete local. I am pretty excited. Gonna pick it up tomorrow night. I also found what appears to be a Dana 60HD still dickering price on that one. 35 spline stock would be sweet.

[DrSockMonkey]

Does this look like a Dana 60 HD rear?
http://i32.tinypic.com/nzj8yr.jpg
It looks like it has the second rib. Not sure though.

here is a for sure dana 60 HD with the dual webbing/ribbing on top
http://medusa.ih8mud.com/cruiser/D60HD/D60HDRibs.jpg

[TNT]

Does this look like a Dana 60 HD rear?
http://i32.tinypic.com/nzj8yr.jpg
It looks like it has the second rib. Not sure though.

My guess is a HD D70

[DrSockMonkey]

My guess is a HD D70


here is another shot of the axle I am looking at
Here

http://images.craigslist.org/01010401021001030820080224aa691032362c385973003fe1 .jpg
Here is a Dana 70
http://i26.tinypic.com/2ja2ox.jpg
They look diferent to me.
Thanks for your thoughts.

[RCman]

Could be a D60HD, but that picture doesn't help much at all. It might also be a D61... they also have the extra rib.
Is it possible to get the BOM from wherever/whomever you got those pictures from? That'll tell you for sure.

[DrSockMonkey]

I will talk to him tomorrow and see if he can get me BOM #'s and better pics.
Thanks,
Jeremy
Could be a D60HD, but that picture doesn't help much at all. It might also be a D61... they also have the extra rib.
Is it possible to get the BOM from wherever/whomever you got those pictures from? That'll tell you for sure.

[DrSockMonkey]

OK it may be a Dana 61 it was out of a dodge van :( He's gonna get me boms tonight.

[JeepFreak21]

OK it may be a Dana 61 it was out of a dodge van :( He's gonna get me boms tonight.

A Dana 61 is not all bad... depending on your goals! What gears/locker/shafts are you interested in running?
Billy

[DrSockMonkey]

Oh my, I am in heaven! This thing is gargantuan! That is a refrigerator dolly it's laying on. This thing has everything including ABS. $250 plus I paid him $30 to deliver it from Tacoma. Very sweet. It will be hard keeping my hands off of this and staying focused on the rear 60.
http://i29.tinypic.com/1q5n5w.jpg

[DrSockMonkey]

A Dana 61 is not all bad... depending on your goals! What gears/locker/shafts are you interested in running?
Billy
My plan is to have 4.10 gears, ARB, 35 spline shafts. That way my jeep will fold like a taco before the axle breaks (wife said that).

[CanMan]

Id gear it lower Jeremy. What size tire do you plan on running in the end?

[DrSockMonkey]

Id gear it lower Jeremy. What size tire do you plan on running in the end?
around 37's but I'm gonna be running a diesel with an OD tranny.

[Ba-Riedo]

around 37's but I'm gonna be running a diesel with an OD tranny.

Christ Jeremey dont you think that 37's are overkill in the NW? It is gonna be sweet to see this thing when its done.

-Alex

[DrSockMonkey]

Christ Jeremey dont you think that 37's are overkill in the NW? It is gonna be sweet to see this thing when its done.

-Alex
I will need 37's to clear my 60's:scottm: . Besides don't believe that, "I can run any trail on 31's" or "there is no reason to run bigger than 33 in the NW." I can think of a few people who said that to me and later went bigger. Did they need to? probably not. inchitis? perhaps. But in the grand scheme of things 37 isn't so big :laugh3:

[DrSockMonkey]

Update on that unidentified dana 60/61. I just got word that the axle has 60HD cast in the webbing. So I will hopefully pick that up this weekend. WooHoo!!

3 dana 60's? I'm thinking 6x6 :roll: :roll::roll:
And yes I am just kidding.

[DrSockMonkey]

Well I got the shortened/welded shaft back tonight. It looks great. We'll see if it will hold up.
Here is the outside.
http://i29.tinypic.com/ibc0m1.jpg
Here is the inside.
http://i27.tinypic.com/14ac3l4.jpg

[WaXJ_Skier]

My plan is to have 4.10 gears, ARB, 35 spline shafts. That way my jeep will fold like a taco before the axle breaks (wife said that).

Yeah... 5.13 or deeper I would think, I'm running my 33's with 5.13s right now. The lower you go the slower you can go so less chance of breaking shit.

[DrSockMonkey]

Yeah... 5.13 or deeper I would think, I'm running my 33's with 5.13s right now. The lower you go the slower you can go so less chance of breaking shit.
I will be running a diesel, they generate there optimal power at lower RPMs. And thus require very different gearing. Now I may need to go to 4.56 but the transmission I will be using has an OD meaning that the gearing is even higher. Never the less I can get stock gearing for cheap. The 60HD is already 4.11. The current rear 60 already has 4.88 gears which I will leave in so that when I run with gas It will help my mileage on 33's. I will then build the 60hd for a clayton rear coil conversion application with the 4.11. If that works with the diesel great. If I need to go lower nothing lost. And I'm sure I have mixed up my higher/lower refrences. Does that make sense joe?

When did you go 5.13? do you stil have you d30 4.88's?

[WaXJ_Skier]

I will be running a diesel, they generate there optimal power at lower RPMs. And thus require very different gearing. Now I may need to go to 4.56 but the transmission I will be using has an OD meaning that the gearing is even higher. Never the less I can get stock gearing for cheap. The 60HD is already 4.11. The current rear 60 already has 4.88 gears which I will leave in so that when I run with gas It will help my mileage on 33's. I will then build the 60hd for a clayton rear coil conversion application with the 4.11. If that works with the diesel great. If I need to go lower nothing lost. And I'm sure I have mixed up my higher/lower refrences. Does that make sense joe?

yeah makes sense, so are you building another rear 60 then?

EDIT: I would still go lower just so you can have a lower crawl speed

[DrSockMonkey]

Yeah, this one has tapered spindles that I can't bore out to accept 1.5 35 spline shafts. So I am gonna finish it as is and make it a direct bolt with leaves and run it to see how I did. Then I am gonna build a Dana 60HD that I am picking up this weekend that already has the big bore spindles and may already have 1.5 35 spline shafts. It also has more reinforcing on the housing.
yeah makes sense, so are you building another rear 60 then?



EDIT: I would still go lower just so you can have a lower crawl speed
I am looking for DD fuel economy. I may run a doubler later.
EDIT: Also I will be running a 700r4 which has a lower 1st gear than the AW4. 3.02 vs 2.80 I think, Eli?

[WaXJ_Skier]

Yeah, this one has tapered spindles that I can't bore out to accept 1.5 35 spline shafts. So I am gonna finish it as is and make it a direct bolt with leaves and run it to see how I did. Then I am gonna build a Dana 60HD that I am picking up this weekend that already has the big bore spindles and may already have 1.5 35 spline shafts. It also has more reinforcing on the housing.

I am looking for DD fuel economy. I may run a doubler later.
EDIT: Also I will be running a 700r4 which has a lower 1st gear than the AW4. 3.02 vs 2.80 I think, Eli?

cool when you're done with that 60 PM me, depending on when that happens I might be interested in taking it off your hands.

[DrSockMonkey]

cool when you're done with that 60 PM me, depending on when that happens I might be interested in taking it off your hands.
Yeah, I guess I won't need two of them.

[WaXJ_Skier]

Yeah... 5.13 or deeper I would think, I'm running my 33's with 4.88s right now. The lower you go the slower you can go so less chance of breaking shit.

fixed I was thinking about my next set of gears when I end up doing a front 44. Stupid dreaming whiole posting.

[Ba-Riedo]

Your right I guess Jeremy, but since you have 60's why not go 39's? I mean 37's are so close to 35's and everyone has those now...

-Alex

[mud1059]

FWIW I've had Chevys since I could drive, all with 700r4 and 4l60e (the electronic variant) and 35's. I've been through 4 trannys in 60-80k? I HIGHLY recommend a different tranny, especially if you think you can run 37 inch tires and 4.10s. Your tranny will hate you and you will know it.

[DrSockMonkey]

FWIW I've had Chevys since I could drive, all with 700r4 and 4l60e (the electronic variant) and 35's. I've been through 4 trannys in 60-80k? I HIGHLY recommend a different tranny, especially if you think you can run 37 inch tires and 4.10s. Your tranny will hate you and you will know it.
Thanks for the advice, I will make sure to look at more options.

[DrSockMonkey]

why not go 39's? I mean 37's are so close to 35's and everyone has those now...

-Alex
Please oh please tell me you did not just recommend a tire size based on what the cool kids are rolling...
Besides at 39 I would have serious COG issues, I mean more than what I will already have.

[DrSockMonkey]

Wow I think I did some bad math on this one. I redid the calculations and found that 4.10 in fact would not be low enough even with the diesel. So I am now shooting at 4.88. Thanks to both Eli and Joe for the questions on that.

update in general, I should have the housing all welded up next week. I am holding off on the shave. I want to get this thing done so I can setup gears and throw it under my rig to see how it's gonna work out. Then I will start focusing on the front 60. So I can get both in and move over to some larger tires so I can actually wheel it withou too much diff dragging.


Id gear it lower Jeremy. What size tire do you plan on running in the end?

[CanMan]

EDIT: Also I will be running a 700r4 which has a lower 1st gear than the AW4. 3.02 vs 2.80 I think, Eli?

Correct.

[Ba-Riedo]

Please oh please tell me you did not just recommend a tire size based on what the cool kids are rolling...
Besides at 39 I would have serious COG issues, I mean more than what I will already have.

No the cool kids roll 33's. I was being sarcastic before anyways... :party:

-Alex

[WaXJ_Skier]

No the cool kids roll 33's. I was being sarcastic before anyways... :party:

-Alex

x2... 33x10.5x15s FTW!

[Ba-Riedo]

x2... 33x10.5x15s FTW!

You have 10.5s? I thought you had wide tires like me, and the rest of the normal population.;)

-Alex

[TNT]

Please oh please tell me you did not just recommend a tire size based on what the cool kids are rolling...
Besides at 39 I would have serious COG issues, I mean more than what I will already have.

Put a HP D60 and a rear 14 bolt in it. That axle weight combined with the tire weight will keep the same COG or it might improve it.

[WaXJ_Skier]

You have 10.5s? I thought you had wide tires like me, and the rest of the normal population.;)

-Alex
I have 12.5s, I enjoy having a wide footprint. I was just saying 10.5s are the new hotness. :worship:

[DrSockMonkey]

Put a HP D60 and a rear 14 bolt in it. That axle weight combined with the tire weight will keep the same COG or it might improve it.
the 14bolt would be cheap but not the HPd60. I just bought a Heavy Duty Rear 60 so it should be plenty heavy for the rear.

[DrSockMonkey]

Sorry for the crappy picture, here is the beautiful but blurry weld on the axle. So all the welding is done now I just have to finish cleaning this up, paint and setup the gears. More to come.
http://i29.tinypic.com/2mg4gwi.jpg

[DrSockMonkey]

Ok, update time. The 60 is about ready for the gear setup. The housing is welded, cleaned and painted.

Here is a pic with disc brake brackets bolted up.
http://i28.tinypic.com/2rwoys4.jpg
Here is a closeup of the weld, I am very pleased with the job my friend Jon did.

http://i25.tinypic.com/34havzk.jpg

I hope to have the axle all done and under my rig in the next couple of weeks. I have to find some 8 lug rims. Since this is staying 30 spline I will not be putting an ARB in this one. Here is a pic of my new dana 60 HD that will be stage two on the axle plan.
http://i27.tinypic.com/23jmlww.jpg
I will build this one to go in with the coil conversion.

more to come...

Jeremy

[DrSockMonkey]

A little more clean and paint work. I let my son choose the color of the paint. Thankfully he chose a decent color.
http://i31.tinypic.com/2pseec1.jpg

[DrSockMonkey]

Well Since gears are going to be going in next and the issue of what's best for my diesel swap plans I have been doing some research. I found out the optimal RPMS for the motor then used this totally awesome gear calc.
http://www.florida4x4.com/tech/gearcalc.php
You put in your ratios or if there listed, just select your combo and select your final drive and it gives you a bazillion charts, one for each gear comparing speed to tire size and the resulting RPMs. Ok that probably made no sense so go and try it. :) Moral of the story is 4.88 will put me in the sweet spot on 36" at 60-65 MPH.

[WaXJ_Skier]

Well Since gears are going to be going in next and the issue of what's best for my diesel swap plans I have been doing some research. I found out the optimal RPMS for the motor then used this totally awesome gear calc.
http://www.florida4x4.com/tech/gearcalc.php
You put in your ratios or if there listed, just select your combo and select your final drive and it gives you a bazillion charts, one for each gear comparing speed to tire size and the resulting RPMs. Ok that probably made no sense so go and try it. :) Moral of the story is 4.88 will put me in the sweet spot on 36" at 60-65 MPH.

Sweet! what tires you looking at?

[DrSockMonkey]

I am looking at getting some H1 hummer beadlocks and if I can find some with the stock military BFG 36" or 37" tires that would be great to start. This project is getting pricey despite the junkyard attitude. :)

[WaXJ_Skier]

I am looking at getting some H1 hummer beadlocks and if I can find some with the stock military BFG 36" or 37" tires that would be great to start. This project is getting pricey despite the junkyard attitude. :)

what size wheel are those?

[DrSockMonkey]

what size wheel are those?
The H1's are 16.5" x and around 9" wide I think.
They have a monsterous 7.25" of backspace though. But it should work for the way I am doing mine.
http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/wheels_tires/images/2PieceBeadlock.gif

[RCman]

I am looking at getting some H1 hummer beadlocks and if I can find some with the stock military BFG 36" or 37" tires that would be great to start. This project is getting pricey despite the junkyard attitude. :)

I'm running (well on jackstands that is) 12-bolt H1s. There are nice.
Just an FYI, the stock tires... pretty much junk, IMO.

[DrSockMonkey]

I'm running (well on jackstands that is) 12-bolt H1s. There are nice.
Just an FYI, the stock tires... pretty much junk, IMO.
Thanks for the heads up. Would they work ok for DD? because this is my daily driver and when I do the swap I will need bigger tires or else I'm gonna be winding out my motor:fuse: After my wallet contains more than dust I will get something new. Not sure what though. What do you run?

[RCman]

Thanks for the heads up. Would they work ok for DD? because this is my daily driver and when I do the swap I will need bigger tires or else I'm gonna be winding out my motor:fuse: After my wallet contains more than dust I will get something new. Not sure what though. What do you run?
I guess I should have stated earlier I personally have not run them. I have however seem them in (some rather disappointing) action from others. There is a reason why they are cheap. For a DD that doesn't see much hard trail time. I'm sure they would be fine until cash permits something else if you could get them for free with the wheels or close to it. If that was the case for me I'd probably had gotten them just to have something to roll it around on until I found another tire, I just got my H1s NIB for a good deal, thus no tires.

What do I run? Jackstands... all the cool kids to that! :star:
I'm trying to find myself a set of bias Iroks, but then again mine won't see any road time.

[DrSockMonkey]

I guess I should have stated earlier I personally have not run them. I have however seem them in (some rather disappointing) action from others. There is a reason why they are cheap. For a DD that doesn't see much hard trail time. I'm sure they would be fine until cash permits something else if you could get them for free with the wheels or close to it. If that was the case for me I'd probably had gotten them just to have something to roll it around on until I found another tire, I just got my H1s NIB for a good deal, thus no tires.

What do I run? Jackstands... all the cool kids to that! :star:
I'm trying to find myself a set of bias Iroks, but then again mine won't see any road time.
Are you H1's recentered? Different bolt pattern? Where'd you get em from?
Thanks,
Jeremy

[RCman]

Are you H1's recentered? Different bolt pattern? Where'd you get em from?
Thanks,
Jeremy
I've got 12-bolt H1s all stock, yet I'm planning to weld on a set of rock-rings before I run them.
I'm using them with full-width 60s, 8lug, so I'm not worried about the width/backspacing (only worried about the rash of beatings my drive flanges will see :) ). I got them new in box, never mounted, from a guy on the PBB for a decent price.

IMO, you will be alittle narrow running them on your narrowed (60" WMS, right?) housing if you use the stock 7.25" backspacing. That's something you're going to have to measure before you get into them.

Edit: Thinking about it, be the wheels will be further inboard than stock using those dimensions. :shiver:

[DrSockMonkey]

I've got 12-bolt H1s all stock, yet I'm planning to weld on a set of rock-rings before I run them.
I'm using them with full-width 60s, 8lug, so I'm not worried about the width/backspacing (only worried about the rash of beatings my drive flanges will see :) ). I got them new in box, never mounted, from a guy on the PBB for a decent price.

IMO, you will be alittle narrow running them on your narrowed (60" WMS, right?) housing if you use the stock 7.25" backspacing. That's something you're going to have to measure before you get into them.

Edit: Thinking about it, be the wheels will be further inboard than stock using those dimensions. :shiver:
Yeah I imagine I will have to recenter them.

[DrSockMonkey]

I have been SO busy with work that I have not had enough time to work on the rear 60. The good news is I just picked up a 6.2L J code diesel to go into the Jeep. I also picked up a 700R4 bolted to a NP231C. I am very excited, I got a good deal on the whole setup. Just need a few more parts. I really need to get the Rear 60 done so I can start on the conversion. More to come.

Jeremy

[mud1059]

I have been SO busy with work that I have not had enough time to work on the rear 60. The good news is I just picked up a 6.2L J code diesel to go into the Jeep. I also picked up a 700R4 bolted to a NP231C. I am very excited, I got a good deal on the whole setup. Just need a few more parts. I really need to get the Rear 60 done so I can start on the conversion. More to come.

Jeremy


I hope that 700r4 works better for you than any that I've ever heard of. How many miles on it?

[DrSockMonkey]

I hope that 700r4 works better for you than any that I've ever heard of. How many miles on it?

Not sure it was supposedly rebuilt with updated internals. Not too worried since I got the tranny and Tcase for $100. Just got to pick up the correct flexplate on tuesday and the drive train will be complete. I'm thinking about getting a rolling chasis that doesn't have motor/tranny so I can get everything fit and motormounts made. My rig is my DD, so I don't want it down for too long.