York OBA stuff.

I know, it's been discussed lots, but I haven't found any info specifically on what I want to do. I would very much like to mount a York on my factory AC bracket. It appears that I will have to move the battery, but I want to know if anybody has done it or not. I don't have the original pump anymore. I traded it to a friend for the AC delete pulley. I thought he was going to use it for AC, and I didn't want AC, so I figgered I'd help him out. Well he built OBA from it, and this was before I knew about using a sanden with a tool oiler. Anyway, I picked up a York 209 for $FREE$, but it has a v belt clutch on it. It has the suction on the right side. I want to lay it on it's side, on my factory bracket. Can it be done? I have the bracket that uses four bolts from the top to fasten the stock compressor.

Where can I find a cheap serpentine clutch? I already searched the junk yards in my area to no avail.

I would also like to see where everybody installed air tanks, and what sizes they use. Pro's/Con's?

TIA, Josh

You can put a York on its side or standing up, so that mount is no issue. I'd skip the serp. clutch and just add the additional pully to something else on the motor, like the alt.

I made my rear bumper into a tank and it holds 4 gal. However, with the york, you really don't need much of a tank since you are pushing 3CFM at 90PSI.

Once you go York, you'll wonder what took so long.

Skipping the clutch means your compressor wont last more than a year...

dlarrivee said:

Skipping the clutch means your compressor wont last more than a year...

Click to expand...

I said skip the serp cluth, not the clutch. Go with the spaced pulley on the alt and use that with your clutch on a seperate belt.

Please read clearly.

Thank you,
Your English Teacher.

Is that what a 209 puts out? 3 cfm? What I really want to know is if anybody has mounted a York directly to the existing "flat top" a/c bracket? And if anybody has a source for $cheap$ serpentine clutch. Pics would be greatly appreciated.

There is a nasty rumor that some ford mustangs got a serp. clutch york but I have never seen one. I want to say it was an 88 or 89. Also you might be able to find a serp clutch on a compressor from a Semi Truck. Good luck finding one of thoes also. I have sold rebuilt and scrounged many junk yards for yorks and have only found 2 serpentine clutches, and both of them where from Semi Trucks. You can check with a Semi Truck parts store for a new one or buy one online. They come up on ebay all of the time. Your best bet is to go to kilby and buy the double pulley to run a V belt. I still have my a/c compressor so I had to move my battery and space my clutch fan out a little to clear the clutch on the compressor. You will have no problems with the compressor mounted on its side but you might have to drill some new mounting holes to get the right spacing for the belt. Brackets are not that hard to build if you have the tools to do it.
As far as an air tank goes I have mine mounted above the rear axle on the drivers side. I have never had any issues with it there but I also am sitting at close to 6" of lift.

As everyone has said, it can be done. You'll most likely find it easiest to make a flat bracket that bolts to your existing a/c spot... then make another bracket that bolts to the york... then attach the two brackets with some space between them so you can get to the bolt heads and all.

Basically youre making an adapter so that it will bolt down. Make sure you come off that york with some copper tubing or some sort of hard line. The output side of those things gets HOT. I used a few feet of copper line, and coiled it so it would cool down before getting to my air dryer and rubber line.

Yes you can run it without a tank. Yes you can run it with a 2 gallon tank. But my 210 was PERFECT with a 7 gallon tank. Yes that sounds big. But it was so nice to not have the compressor kick on or stay on. Plus...some of you have seen my automatic idle control. Bumping your idle really helps the air move along. I could fill my 7 gallon tank up in seconds. Now I have a 3 gallon and it sucks. Not enough volume. If I were keeping my jeep, Ide be switching back to a long, skinny, air ride tank in 8gallon form. THey have plenty of outlets for hook ups too.

J.

ghettocruiser said:

The output side of those things gets HOT. I used a few feet of copper line, and coiled it so it would cool down before getting to my air dryer and rubber line.


J.

Click to expand...

What he said.

We were using a die grinder on the trail at an increased idle and after about 10 minutes we heard a loud "BANG". Sounded like freakin' gun fire and more than one person jumped. Blew the C6 air brake line coming out of the compressor clean off.

Good times.

Now I run a hard line. Lesson learned.

If you setup your stock ac compressor correctly they work perfectly fine and nearly as fast. I can run an impact wrench off mine without a tanks at just above idle.

I actually just ordered an oiler for it. A shut off swtich and a few other things. It will cost less then 50$ by the time im all done with it.

He doesnt have his stock compressor... He has a delete pulley and a york...

Not saying you are wrong or arguing... But ive yet to see a stock compressor, set up "correctly" that can keep up with my York 210 even at idle speed. The whole oiling thing drove me away too. That and I wanted to keep my a/c and have OBA. Again...not bashing the stock compressor method or anything. I just like the output and the self contained oiling of the york.

Either method works though! Let us know how you make out adapting a bracket...Im sure that info/write up would help a LOT of people out there. So make sure you take pics during the project!

J.

EDIT: Oh yeah...to the O.P... Definetly take the others' suggestions and get the v-belt pulley for your alternator. Its really easy to line it all up and make it work. And you wont incur any costs from buying a serp pulley...which can get expensive unless you get a junk yard one.

You can get the serpintine belt from napa with coil for $125, NAPA part number 948435, non NAPA part number 02-0804

Having done the sanden (AC delete) method on a previous heep i will go the 210/v-belt route preserving AC. I'll have to get creative with batteries, but that shouldn't be too difficult.

For the record my sanden with 5 gal tank could not run a die grinder very long- even on idle up. Then again, die grinders take a lot of air.

Well, I was able to find a serp clutch for about $80. I will most likely be purchasing that. I would rather avoid the v belt, it seems like people have limited clearance from the fan when using that setup? I have no problem building a bracket. I have access to a welder, torch, drill press...... I was curious if anyone else had done it, if there were clearance issues with the hood or battery. This weekend I am gonna pull my belt, pull the delete pulley, lay my york on it's side and see if the hood will close. If it does, and I clear the battery or can easily relocate the battery, it's on like Donkey Kong. I'll buy the clutch, pressure switch, and all that garbage. I have a few tanks, but am not sure if I can fit them under the chassis anywhere that doesn't limit ground clearance or flex. I'm only running 4.5" lift, so the space above the axle seems limited. Anybody who has installed their tank where the stock spare sits? Any regrets?

Thanks to all for your suggestions and insight. Keep it coming!
-Josh

I just used a few washers to space the fan forward that was no big deal really. I moved my battery to the back of the jeep and that was more of a pain than anything. Copper tubing for a few feet before going into your filter and pressure switch is a must. I was blowing off lines on my YJ before I went to copper. Now on this jeep I run copper for about 4 to 5 feet then all of the hardware. Let us know how it works out.

So I was cruising around the junk yards today, and I saw a Volvo sedan. I didn't figger it even had a/c, but I thought what the heck, I popped the hood and there it was. A York compressor. I rubbed the 1/4" of grime off the tab, blammo, it's a F10R. Sweet. It has a 2 groove v pulley, and the clutch bearing is good, the compressor turns. I pulled it, and paid $20. I pulled off the clutch assembly and pressed the bearing out. I then chucked it up in my Dad's lathe and cut it down. It now looks like
/\_/\/\/\_/\ (roughly). I think it will work nicely. It will also make the compressor turn faster at idle than using a v belt from the alternator. I think.

On a side note, my dad pointed out that I should remove the head, and plug an oil passage that goes from the (crankcase) to the intake area (under the head). He said this would prevent any oil from entering the intake charge to the compressor. It makes sense to me, and I got to thinking..... Is this why it is suggested that you use a right side suction? If it were laying on it's side, and didn't have that hole plugged, a lot of oil would enter the cylinders. (left side suction laying on the left side) It seems that plugging this hole would allow you to use a left side suction laying on it's left side. Laying a right side suction on it's left side would only allow a minimal amount of oil into the intake charge, but plugging the hole like I did will prevent any oil from going in.

If do plug the hole it is best to vent the crank case. You can fit the york standing up though and don't have to worry about placing on its side. You can plug it at either end I usualy plug it at the top when I take the head off to tap the ports to npt fittings.

I machined the original clutch, and the original sanden mount.

http://www.madxj.com/

For the tank...5 gallon from checker. It was a little big but ran air tools 100% no problem.

Update! The compressor is mounted! Using 1/4" plates I was able to use the stock a/c bracket as a mounting point. I had to grind on it some where it meets the head for clearance, but it is still basically stock. I mounted one plate to the factory bracket with countersunk allen head bolts, and mounted another plate to the compressor with countersunk allen head bolts. I then stacked the plates and bolted them together with 3/8" bolts. I had to move the battery, but was able to simply (not really simple) move the battery over a bit. See pic below. I then had to lengthen my battery cables. I also had to modify the upper radiator hose. It is currently made up of the modified stock upper hose joined with a random piece of 1.5" hose that my Dad had laying around. It was new, just dusty. The battery cables are out of a crashed 06 Crown Victoria police car. There is an extra 4g lead coming off the positive terminal that I couldn't bring myself to cutting. I guess I figure I'll use it for something. Anyway, pics are worth a thousand words, so here they are. Any questions or advice on my setup, I'm all ears. I'll also add more pics once I finish the install. I was able to find a nice small pressure switch for the system that closes at or below 90 psi and opens at 120 psi.

Nice work! Very similar to what I did. I had issues with the battery terminals being too close to the hood, so I took an air chisel to indent the front of the wheel well to drop the battery a 1/2" or so. I was also able to re-use the stock radiator hose and serp. belt. The hose rubbed on the hood, but nothing major.

At this point, there isn't anything rubbing the hood. I was leary about it because the clutch is very close. The negative terminal on the battery was close, but it was on one of the parts of the hood that hangs down, ya know, the reinforcements or whatever. I used a ball pein hammer to uh.. clearance it. I actually fabbed up a 12g piece of sheet metal that bolts to the inner fender. That is what the battery is sitting on/strapped to. I wanted it as low as possible. I had to use a 6K1020 belt. I believe the original is a 6K975.

One thing for you guys to consider if planning on copying me. This is a 1985 XJ that was born with a 2.8L V6. I swapped in the 4.0L from a 1993. I had to cut up the core support to fit the radiator in, so some of your setups may be a bit different.:thumbup: