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Rear shock mounting

B

badazzcherokee3

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
I am finished with my rear axle I have it under my jeep but I am not sure how I want to run the shocks.

Is it better to run the straight up and down, at like a 45 degree angle? Should I run them off the top of my axle tube, the rear of it or the front?

What I have now Is a 1990 Jeep Cherokee 8in Lift With 38in tall tires, Dana 44 Front, Dana 60 Rear, my fuel tank has been relocated so I have more room to work with now.

Should I run a piece of tube accross the inside of the unibody or should I run shocks through the floor with a hoop inside?

 
We got to get you off that bad imageshack habit so we can actually see full size pictures...photobucket ftw!

I think the normal OE format for shocks is plenty functional, just raise the mount points so they dont hang below the tubes.
 
img2550sb3.jpg
 
I was under the impression that running the upper shock mounts closer to the center is better. JKS and Cross both make a cross over shock mount. Allows you to rasie the lower shock mounts and still run longer shocks. I just put the JKS on mine, but haven't had the chance to use it...

P1030143.jpg
 
People run them in at an angle to fit a longer shock in a shorter space.

Strait up and down is best if you can fit it.
 
Okay I see what you are saying but is it better to run them on thetop of the axle tube front side back side both front and back side where to mount right next to the spring perch centered between spring perch and housing
 
In "theory", its best to have one on the front and one in the back to cut down on axle wrap.

In practice, it doesnt really matter, just keep them out of the way of the rocks.
 
If you are bound to using the upper mounting points, you are stuck with RS front of tube, LS rear of tube... the lower mounts would want to be as far outboard towards the leaf perches as possible. (to allow the longest effective length)

On a past XJ, I put both lowers on the rear of the tube, to be out of harms way, and built a simple crossmember out of 2x2 tube for the uppers... drilled several pairs of holes to allow trying different top mount points. It worked OK... On this rig, I was re-using a set of 10" travel gas shox... stiff as a (stiffy?) but servicible.

Jaburk makes a point... Extreme / \ angles will effectively reduce the shock's dampening. If you must have /\ angles, you'll probably want stiffer shocks.

The best deal going IMHO to have the lower mounts on top of the axle tubes, and run the shocks straight up inside the inner wheel wells, to mounts on a roll cage.
 
jdbwrx said:
I was under the impression that running the upper shock mounts closer to the center is better. JKS and Cross both make a cross over shock mount. Allows you to rasie the lower shock mounts and still run longer shocks.
Click to expand...

It does, but the more angle you have on the shocks, the less effective they'll be in damping, especially for sway damping.
 
Hey everyone Thanks A bunch! I think I will run a shock hoop off the cage and run the shocks through the floor. Another question What is the preferred shock everyone runs are likes the best I my self was leaning towards Blistein shocks or Rancho
 
badazzcherokee3 said:
Hey everyone Thanks A bunch! I think I will run a shock hoop off the cage and run the shocks through the floor. Another question What is the preferred shock everyone runs are likes the best I my self was leaning towards Blistein shocks or Rancho
Click to expand...

It depends how much you are willing to spend. I would definitly go Bilstein over Rancho though.
 
bandit455 said:
if your gonna do the work to run htem through the floor i would at the least go with 5150's
Click to expand...

Huh?

There's a big difference between needing a long travel shock, and needing a long travel shock with a reservoir.

The 5150's don't ride any better than the 5125's. They can just provide adequate damping for longer in harsh conditions due to the reservoir. It's essentially the same shock.

If you're going to be pre-running and hittin desert lake beds all day long, then spring for the 5150's. For the rest of us that crawl stuff, drive access roads quickly every now and then, and spend occasional time on the street...no reason for it.
 
bandit455 said:
then why do rock crawlers spend tons of money on bilstein 7100's

i was trying to say that you should go for as high of a quality as your budget will allow
Click to expand...

x2
 
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