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why must my actual lift amount be shorter than the lift was supposed to be?!!

KI4KWF

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alabama
did some measuring on the jeep today.
i remeber measuring before the lift a while back and it was like around 17", and i think i have seen somewhere else that the stock height is 17". [from center of axle to bottom of fender flare 97+]
well, my xj only measures 19". so im pretty mad. i see pics of all these jeeps running same tires, wheels, but with 3.5 RE kits and they sit alot taller. so now i cant decide on if i want to leave it like it is, or go up an inch or 2 more.
sorry, just had to :flame: a little bit.
 
Because you bought a shitty lift. the RE is most of the time .5 to 1.5" over advertised.
 
Well it depends on several factors. How did you lift it? Are you talking the rear? If it was AAL on a sagging lift pack... only makes sense that it won't lift it as much as it would on a normal height spring pack. Did you change shocks? Could they limit the lift? It is also possible that you got the wrong lift, who made the kit?
 
it's a rusty's 3" aal, with their shocks. its already leveled out, only been about 2 whole months with light flexing...so i figure i'll have to do full packs eventually.
[ive never thought about the shocks limiting the lift....that could be a possibility, being rusty's shocks...they seem pretty stiff. i need some OMEs.]
 
Its probably "his" springs as much as it is your spring pack, it's not uncommon for a stock pack to be -1" these days, so adding 3" on top...

I have his AAL, and didn't have any problems with sagging, 70K miles later. Not a rock guy, though. But it's worth noting that he sells a 2" kit these days, possible that you got the wrong leafs?
 
well i had thought that at first...but when dad went to get the stuff [we're close enough to actually go to the place in rainbow city] he talked to the dude there. we were gonna get the full spring pack kit, but the guy at rusty's said not to worry about it since it wasn't sagging. and on top of that....the whole thing is leveled at about ~2" so the front is the same, so i doubt we got the wrong springs.
i had thought about going back up to rusty's and get the 1.75" spacers for the front and a 2" block kit to help pick it up a little [this is basically what their 2" BB kit is]. can be done for less that $100, and i might go ahead and get some OME shocks and some soft 8's while I'm on a role! :confused1
 
Well if you go that route...
P1010416-1.jpg


3" AAL with 1.75" shackle and spacer with 32" TSL's. Measured out to 4.75" front 4.5" rear.

You may want to go with a 3" RE rear springpack as RyanM said, and use a spacer in the front to level it out. Or if on the cheap, look up bastard packs and add to your own. :cheers:
 
i might go that route...
the whole new spring pack would probably be best to avoid saggage. and then i could get some adjustable spacers to get it just right, and the RE LCA's and some OME shocks...that would be nearly a complete RE kit...
and then again, I might just get a RE 3.5 kit and replace the whole thing. i'll have to crunch the numbers and see what would be best feasable. thanks for the help. :yelclap:
 
I would agree with adding spacers and shackles. The shackles will help adjust your pinion angle and increase the flex in the rear somewhat. A used set is usually as good as a new set so shop around. You shouldn't pay more than around $50 for a used set.

By the way, if you are getting any drop when you're flexing then your shocks are not limiting your lift. But, new shocks would be best if you go up more than 2". But if your overall lift height is more than 3.5" you will be getting into the "need an SYE" range.
 
xcm said:
why would you continue to buy rustys stuff when it has performed so badly for you?
why not start over with proper parts?

RE = Rubicon Express, not Rusty's. He's looking at rebuilding it with RE parts, not Rusty's.
 
Dont get a block for the rear!!!!!

The fact that he talked you into an AAL shows his true colors.....jeez...you went there trying to get a new full pack and he gave you an AAL...

:doh:
 
icewolf73 said:
...The shackles will help adjust your pinion angle...

only if he has/gets an SYE
 
If you do go with a complete rebuild, this is what you SHOULD be gunning for... (using a 3" kit as an example)

1: FULL COIL SPRINGS. No need for poly spacers in the front when you get good offroad coils.

2: FULL 3" LEAF PACKS. AAL leaf packs are only as strong as their weakest point. Since XJ factory springs (non-UpCountry) are already soft, you want strong, load-bearing leaves to keep the arch up.

3: 3" hydro- or nitro- shocks. Bilstein, Rubicon Express, and OME are good selections.

4: longer bumpstops - front and rear. This will help keep the wear-and-tear down on your kit by limiting uptravel on both axles so that you don't bottom out when you flex.

Additional mods that will be useful in the immediate future...

4: BPE's - Bar Pin Eliminators - front and rear. Replacing shocks with the factory holes and bar pins is a royal PITA (wait until you snap a bolt trying to get one out... it's LOADS-O-FUN... :banghead:). These will make replacing shocks a breeze.

5: Bumpstop plates. These go great with extended bumpstops and/or stock bumpstops in the rear. The plates go on top of the rear axle and press against the bumpstop to limit uptravel on the rear axle. The nice thing about them is they're ADJUSTABLE. You just add/remove plates as you see fit.

6: Rear shackles. These are more for long-term goals. You won't need 'em right away, but in the near future you may see some settling of the leaf packs after a few hard trails and want to adjust your rear height more. These will replace your existing shackle and give you a definitive height based on the length of the shackle.

7: ACOS - Adjustable Coil-Over Spacers. Even more long term and pricey. These allow you to adjust the height of the front coils. Why do you want 'em? Wait until you get an offroad bumper and front winch (c'mon - you KNOW you want one!!!). The extra weight in the front will push the coils down plenty, dropping your ride height. The ACOS's will compensate for that rather than having to add poly spacers to get the same desired amount of lift.

Things to get if you encounter problems with driveline vibes after a lift.....

8: T-case drop. Start with this FIRST and FOREMOST. It's cheap, easy to do, and can under the right circumstances really help with vibes.

9: SYE - Slip Yoke Eliminator - Absolutely necessary for any kit over 3.5" lift. Gets rid of the slip yoke and shortens the driveshaft to improve your driveline angle to the axle.
 
Ohh, three things that should come standard with the kit....

10: Drag link relocation bracket.

11: Longer LCAs (Lower Control Arms). Look into getting adjustables!!!

12: Longer rear U-bolts.

And something you want later on when you get used to all this stuff...

13: CURRIE HEAVY DUTY STEERING SYSTEM. Replaces the factory hollow candy-cane-brittle tie rod and drag link with stronger solid bars. Also look into replacing the steering stabilizer at the same time with an HD one (might as well, since you'll have the old one off during the steering upgrade!!!).
 
Dagit... I hate editing my messages...

Don't forget, for great flexing on trails ditch the rear sway bar and add front swaybar disconnects. Don't run the risk of driving your rig without a front swaybar though, because the ride geometry changes on the highway, causing the axle to float and sway. This is extremely dangerous for you and those around you at highway speeds when you have the axle "break away" from you in turns, and can cause you to lose control of your XJ. If you don't careen off into a guardrail you might just plow into another vehicle. Bad juju for that... :eek:
 
Drake69 said:
If you do go with a complete rebuild, this is what you SHOULD be gunning for... (using a 3" kit as an example)

1: FULL COIL SPRINGS. No need for poly spacers in the front when you get good offroad coils.

2: FULL 3" LEAF PACKS. AAL leaf packs are only as strong as their weakest point. Since XJ factory springs (non-UpCountry) are already soft, you want strong, load-bearing leaves to keep the arch up.

3: 3" hydro- or nitro- shocks. Bilstein, Rubicon Express, and OME are good selections.

4: longer bumpstops - front and rear. This will help keep the wear-and-tear down on your kit by limiting uptravel on both axles so that you don't bottom out when you flex.

Additional mods that will be useful in the immediate future...

4: BPE's - Bar Pin Eliminators - front and rear. Replacing shocks with the factory holes and bar pins is a royal PITA (wait until you snap a bolt trying to get one out... it's LOADS-O-FUN... :banghead:). These will make replacing shocks a breeze.

5: Bumpstop plates. These go great with extended bumpstops and/or stock bumpstops in the rear. The plates go on top of the rear axle and press against the bumpstop to limit uptravel on the rear axle. The nice thing about them is they're ADJUSTABLE. You just add/remove plates as you see fit.

6: Rear shackles. These are more for long-term goals. You won't need 'em right away, but in the near future you may see some settling of the leaf packs after a few hard trails and want to adjust your rear height more. These will replace your existing shackle and give you a definitive height based on the length of the shackle.

7: ACOS - Adjustable Coil-Over Spacers. Even more long term and pricey. These allow you to adjust the height of the front coils. Why do you want 'em? Wait until you get an offroad bumper and front winch (c'mon - you KNOW you want one!!!). The extra weight in the front will push the coils down plenty, dropping your ride height. The ACOS's will compensate for that rather than having to add poly spacers to get the same desired amount of lift.

Things to get if you encounter problems with driveline vibes after a lift.....

8: T-case drop. Start with this FIRST and FOREMOST. It's cheap, easy to do, and can under the right circumstances really help with vibes.

9: SYE - Slip Yoke Eliminator - Absolutely necessary for any kit over 3.5" lift. Gets rid of the slip yoke and shortens the driveshaft to improve your driveline angle to the axle.

Disagree - I would avoid a TC drop at all costs. puts extra strain on your motor mounts, leading to those failing, which leads to your headers cracking, which leads to people complaining b/c their headers keep cracking no matter what brand they try....

Avoid anything that labels their shocks as "hydro" or "nitro" - its another way of saying "hydrolic" or "gas charged" - you named 3 good shock brands (provided they are the RE Monotubes) - but just because it says Hydro or Nitro on it, doesnt mean its good (OME being the exception, I think theirs actually say Nitro on the sticker)

an adjustable track bar should be on your list too. DO NOT get a trackbar relocation bracket.
 
Drake69 said:
Ohh, three things that should come standard with the kit....

10: Drag link relocation bracket.

11: Longer LCAs (Lower Control Arms). Look into getting adjustables!!!

12: Longer rear U-bolts.

And something you want later on when you get used to all this stuff...

13: CURRIE HEAVY DUTY STEERING SYSTEM. Replaces the factory hollow candy-cane-brittle tie rod and drag link with stronger solid bars. Also look into replacing the steering stabilizer at the same time with an HD one (might as well, since you'll have the old one off during the steering upgrade!!!).

Whats a drag link relocation bracket????

If you mean a track bar relocation bracket, STAY AWAY FROM THAT. Get an adjustable trackbar (JKS/Kevins, TNT, RE) that mounts on the frame side with a new bracket, putting the mount in a double shear configuration. stay away from the ball joint style (stock) trackbars.
 
xcm said:
i apologize, i misread
re = happy time

:cheers: you may have misread, but your opinion was accurate.
 
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