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Dana 35 swap

9

92tahoexj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Southwest PA
If I'm not planning on running anything bigger than 32's, and I'm not into rock crawling or jumping my xj @ 60 mph in the desert, why does everyone tell me not to sink any $$$ into my Dana 35 and put in a Dana 44? All i want to do is regear to get better mpg's and some more power for driving up over the passes. why not regear the d35 for my 75% dd 25% trail rig? Don't get me wrong, I like to hit the trails, but I'm not planning on building a crawler :huh:
 
For less than the cost of regearing the D35 (remember you have to do front and rear) you could find a matching front and rear with 4.10 or 4.56 gearing that is stock.
Alot of people don't like the 35 because the axle or c-clip holding the axle snaps and the tire-axle combo comes out of the axle tube. If your not locking the rear your probably o.k. Ive run the 35 on 2 cherokees 1 with 31's w/locker and right now one with 33's and no locker.
Haven't snapped either (yet).
 
I think you would be fine doing that. I ran a 35 w/33s for about 3yrs w/ a lock right. Never had a problem. Rock crawling and wash running at 55mph. Just try to be easy with it.
 
then you should be ok with the 35. lots of people are wheelin their 35 with not too many problem, if you do plan on wheelin more than just easy open trails just be prepared for breakage.
 
if you don't lock it, and stay below 32's you should have no problems but do any of the above or a ton more things and you might regret it. the axle shafts are small in diameter and the dif housing flexes witch causes deflection in the gears and breaks the ring gear. i had a 35 that was trussed up and had no problems on 33's and ran 35's for a while and never broke. i don't recommend the 35 but that is just because of the issues others have had.
here is a pic of my old 35

DSCN0376.jpg

DSCN0372.jpg
 
88xjlover said:
For less than the cost of regearing the D35 (remember you have to do front and rear) you could find a matching front and rear with 4.10 or 4.56 gearing that is stock.
Alot of people don't like the 35 because the axle or c-clip holding the axle snaps and the tire-axle combo comes out of the axle tube. If your not locking the rear your probably o.k. Ive run the 35 on 2 cherokees 1 with 31's w/locker and right now one with 33's and no locker.
Haven't snapped either (yet).
Click to expand...

What about all the other modifications needed to swap the axles? control arm mounts, spring perches, shock mounts, driveshaft, etc ? I don't own or know someone with a welder or machine shop. I'm not even lucky enough to have a garage. if everything just bolted up no problem, that would be one thing, but from everything i've been reading here that's not the case.
 
then find a cryco 8.25 and it will simply bolt right in.
 
92tahoexj said:
What about all the other modifications needed to swap the axles? control arm mounts, spring perches, shock mounts, driveshaft, etc ? I don't own or know someone with a welder or machine shop. I'm not even lucky enough to have a garage. if everything just bolted up no problem, that would be one thing, but from everything i've been reading here that's not the case.
Click to expand...
all the axles mentioned here so far are a direct bolt in
 
i would guess it would be the same price, IMO you should lock the rear first then lock the front when you have the chance
 
92tahoexj said:
is it cheaper to regear a cryco 8.25? most likely i will leave the rear open and maybe put an aussie in th front
Click to expand...
in all truth get the cryco, re gear and lock it, re gear the front and have fun you will have no problems untill after you go bigger than 35's
 
Mr.OverKill said:
all the axles mentioned here so far are a direct bolt in
Click to expand...

so, i can just bolt them up and go? no new driveshaft? same bolt pattern for wheels? what type of vehicle do i get these axles from? the nearest p&p is an 1 1/2 away so i need to know what i'm looking for.
 
92tahoexj said:
so, i can just bolt them up and go? no new drive shaft? same bolt pattern for wheels? what type of vehicle do i get these axles from? the nearest p&p is an 1 1/2 away so i need to know what I'm looking for.
Click to expand...
all out of Cherokee's, get the axle and the drive shaft from the same vehicle if it is an automatic and yours is an auto then it should fit, if not for $50 here in San Diego (where every things more expensive) a drive shaft shop can fix it, it should be cheaper where you are. and it will be cheaper than re gearing an axle, that if you go bigger in the future, wont be strong enough.
 
i live in tahoe and nothing here is cheap. gas(87)=$3.79 per gallon!
that's why i want to regear. pulling a trailer over the pass sucks. if regearing my current axle isn't cost effective i'm going to sell the 32's and put my 30's back on. thanks for the advise.
 
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