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I need Help!!

Harry_f

NAXJA Forum User
I'm building a 2000 jeep cherokee basically from scratch. I'm gutting it ect ect... some part i'm unfamililiar about changing is suspension and driveline. The engine has 158,000 miles and is going to be rebuilt, I ordered a 3.5 rubicon express super ride lift kit. and 32 in wrangler mt/r's. but what do i need as far as other suspension and possibly driveline components to make this a descent off roader, i'm building a nice on road/off road vehicle, not a competition machine, so i'm looking for some basic necessities...


thanks.
 
BBeach said:
You might want to regear with 32" tires. Get some recovery points, recovery straps, etc. A basic tuneup is great too.
What are you going to do besides replace the plugs!
 
I just noticed it was a 2000, but I could add in keeping up with your fluids (tranny, diff, tcase, engine, etc.) Just keeping it up to working order that's all, the word tune-up gets tossed around to cover all that crap.
 
regear, add lockers and disco's and you'll be ready for almost any trail.
 
The first thing you need to get is some knowledge...

Start reading and searching and get a better grasp of what you are doing. When you know a little more then return and ask your questions.

All the information you are asking and need to know are here---read and you shall learn.

Good Luck.
 
Harry_f said:
what do i need as far as other suspension and possibly driveline components to make this a descent off roader,

If all you're doing is running downhills, I would start with the brake system. Upgrade pads and rotors, possibly rear disc conversion.:wave:
 
Discos are just another term for sway bar disconnects.
Your sway bar limits alot of your flex so having quick disconnects is nice because you can disconnect it at the trail and reconnect it when you hit the road.
If you are in 2wd and one of your rear tires leaves the ground than the tire off the ground will be the only one to move. a locker is placed in the rear differential and when engaged it distributes power to both tires evenly.
They are really worth the money.
I just wanna say that i wouldnt suggest 32" tires with only 3.5 inches of lift. I would go with 31"s for sure.
 
If i buy the 3.5 in RE kit is there anything a suspension shop could do? I don't know a ton about suspension but couldn't I add blocks in the back and crank the torsion bars in the front for more lift?
 
you must be trolling, first saying torsion bars, then a body lift!
xjs have neither torsion bars, nor a liftable body (tis a unibody, dontcha know?)
 
ok, time to answer some questions....
ON TOP OF THE RE3.5
you COULD add coil spacers up front.... but control arm angles suffer....
you COULD add a shackle in the rear,
allthough then youd probably need differant length shocks.... thereby messing with your lift..... stick with the 3.5 untill you know enough to expand on it... itll really give you 4-4.5", unless you got a heavy bumper or a fat girlfriend.


optimum gears for 32's are probably 4.10s.... but go 4.56 if you EVER THINK you may go up to 33's.... regearing is expensive/inconvienient... do it once.
btw, im sure 2000's still have fuel and air filters....
are you sure the engine needs a rebuild?
check fluids (engine, tranny, xfer case, differentials, and finally muffler bearings)
 
Jess said:
The first thing you need to get is some knowledge...

Start reading and searching and get a better grasp of what you are doing. When you know a little more then return and ask your questions.


Not to be a prick, or irritate the wrong guy..
but isnt that the point of a tech-discussion forum? for someone with experience to pass their experience on to someone else? correct me if i'm wrong:
This forum has the answers, through other users, to modifed tech discussion.. and the answer according to another user is "go somewhere else"
Shrug. just an observation.

Harry_f said:
what are discos and lockers?
and what gears do i need? what ratio? I still want good h.w mpg cause i gotta drive it to college. also what winch would be good?


Gearing is complicated, but can be fine-tuned for your own needs. It depends really on what you plan to use it for; if you want an on/off highway vehicle, i would suggest 3.56 or maybe 3.73, if applicable. you may already have 3.56's in your axle. anything higher is going to suck on gas milliage; ask anyone who runs 33" on 4.10's what their MPG is.

In terms of MPG, you're planning on driving a lifted jeep with 32" tires. expect 1/4 to 1/2 of your paycheck to go into gas. and don't listen to your buddies in the TJ's talk about how they get 18 MPG with a 4" lift and 33"s. you will more than likely experience the phenomena of being able to watch your gas gauge drop slowly.

why do you need a winch? They're expensive, and convenient, but not necessary. I have a 30lb come-along that has pulled tj's out of mud pits up to the door handles. don't stress about a winch.

i think you asked about disco's and lockers too.
a "disco" is short for a quick disconnect sway bar link that replaces your sway bar link (which connects the swaybar and the axle). the purpose of it is so you can quickly and easily disconnect your sway bar, to allow for more flexing of your axle over larger masses of earth (rocks, dirt, etc)

A locker is a locking differential. the short version is that it "locks" your wheels, so that they cannot spin at different speeds. the long version is that a stander differential design always provides equal amounts of power to each wheel. thus, in normal driving with no tire slippage, half (50%) of the incoming engine power is transmitted to each wheel, or 50-50. In a slipper traction situation, if one wheel spins with only 10% of the engine power aplied to it, the other wheel also receives only 10% of the power, or 10-10. this means that the vehicle is trying to move with only 20% of the total power applied to the ground such that it may not move. the vehicle is stuck.
by installing a locker, you can provide as much as 100% of the available power to either wheel (100-0) when the other one is on a slick suface or even off the ground in a hole. this means that if one wheel is on solid ground with excellent traction and one wheel is on ice and would slip with 10% of the power applied, that the one on solid ground would received 90% of the power, and the one that's slipping gets 10% (90-10). The wheel with 90% moves the vehicle just fine, and you never even know that you;d have been stuck. I'll leave the explanation at that, but there's actually alot more to it; that's almost like a book write up.

search on the forum, for any term someone uses that you don't know, you end up learning more about your jeep than you'd expect. the first time i saw "LSD", i was thinking abbie hoffmann and tim leary.

happy trails.
 
nice, thanks for all the good info. Rubicon express says i can fit 31's with a 3.5 inch lift. is that true, or could i go a little bigger. also i heard alot about the toyo open country m/t's, are those a good off road/on road tire. i mean, i know they're a mud tire, but i want them to not burn up after 10,000 miles.
 
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