cheapest way to get 6" ??

I've already got 3" of lift from coil spacers and blocks and I've read around everywhere and I still don't know exactly what I need to go higher than this. I'm looking for the cheapest (so long as it's sturdy) way to get about 3-4 more inches. I keep seeing slip yoke eliminators and tc drop kits, but they are kind of expensive, and honestly I don't even know what a slip-yoke is. Is all that really necessary? Got a set of 33's that I'd love to put on but there's no way without 3 more inches. I've been searching and I can't seem to find a straight answer. I know, I'm a newbie, but I'd really appreciate some help, thanks:eeks1:

Get a sawzall, trim your fenders, and you can use 33's with the lift you have now. To get 6 inches, and do it right isn't cheap.

You really cant fit 33's with 3"s? I fit my 33's with a 3" lift in the front and 2.75"s in the back easily..:dunno: but anyways back to your question. You could get a set of F-250 springs and add the 3" coil spacers, for about 5"s in the front. And a set of of s-10 leafs for the rear with a 1 or 2" block for around 5-5.5"s also.
You might need an SYE at 6"s but if you stay around 5"s you could get away with a T-case drop instead.
I suggest staying around 5"s with 33's. You really dont need much more than that as a lot people on here run 35's with 6"s easily.

body lift

BRIANHO13 said:

body lift

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:laugh:

If your interested, I have a bunch of parts to get you lifted.

Some F250 springs as mentioned. Also 2" pucks.

Rear, get dakota packs and use your upper spring from the XJ pack. Local junk yard should have them. I picked mine up for $50.

Then add 2" blocks to the rear and you get about 6.5" lift.

I have a t-case drop on mine and run a YJ slip yoke on stock driveshaft. Not sure how I managed it but I don't have ANY vibes at all. My setup 7" front and 7.25 rear using MJ shackles.

I like the highlift idea. Think of the money I could have saved if I had used high lifts instead of the ACOS adjustables up front.

But really xjbambuska, you need to do a little more research. Just lifting the truck to fit a set of tires isn't going to net you a useable or safe truck.
with blocks: axle wrap becomes more pronounced and stresses parts. I broke a rear yoke and 3 of 4 bolts going up a water fall one time. ANd that was with no blocks.
T-case drop/SYE: Vibrations will kill the ride quality and shorten the life of u-joints, bearings and oil seals.
Steering: You need to look into this. Bump Steer will drive you buggy and can be dangerous if severe. And it takes redesigned parts to fix it.
Gears: 33 and stock gears you can measure your time to cruising speed with a sundial. Not to mention wear and tear on the tranny.

Best advice was cut the fender wells to fit the tires, install bumpstops to keep the rubber from being cut.
If your goal is to get it to look cool, lookup threads like chopping the fenders and installing TJ flares. If you want a more capable offroad truck with better ground clearance and a more aggressive tire tread, plan to do more than toss in a new set of front springs and bigger rear blocks.

Good luck

DaffyXJ said:

I like the highlift idea. Think of the money I could have saved if I had used high lifts instead of the ACOS adjustables up front.

But really xjbambuska, you need to do a little more research. Just lifting the truck to fit a set of tires isn't going to net you a useable or safe truck.
with blocks: axle wrap becomes more pronounced and stresses parts. I broke a rear yoke and 3 of 4 bolts going up a water fall one time. ANd that was with no blocks.
T-case drop/SYE: Vibrations will kill the ride quality and shorten the life of u-joints, bearings and oil seals.
Steering: You need to look into this. Bump Steer will drive you buggy and can be dangerous if severe. And it takes redesigned parts to fix it.
Gears: 33 and stock gears you can measure your time to cruising speed with a sundial. Not to mention wear and tear on the tranny.
Good luck

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I agree with about half of this...
If he ends up using S-10 Springs axle wrap will be limited as the springs are much stiffer and can usually handle blocks up to 2"s(preferable 1") without sagging..Usually.

T-case and SYE. Well I advised him to stay at 5"s which depending on the year usually wont need an SYE, Most get by with T-case drops and shims.

Steering. I completely agree on this one.

Gears. I somewhat think people on this site beleive that your tranny will spontaneously combust if you run 33's or you wont be able to climb over speed bumps on stock gears. I've ran 33's on 3.55's for over a year now, and after rebuilding my engine a while ago I can easily spin the 33's around a corner in 2HI most days. Now yes tranny wear will be an issue but if your keeping up with the fluids and dont floor it after every stop, you could run that setup.

Now that being said, every Jeep is different and everything you said has happened to a lot of people and is very true and reading your other posts I can tell you know what you're talking about, although a lot of people get away with what I said, me being one of them.

Just keep the lift you have, if nothing else, get rid of hte blocks and get some shackels or something. I have 3.5 in lift and I have trimmed the rear so far, and done makeshift trimming up front. 33x12.50s on backspacing which makes htem stick out like 6 in and I am able to tuck them nicely. Once I get the front trimmed (get my friend with the sawz-all off his lazy ass to bring it over for literally 20 min) I will try and get pics up, but really, keep the center of gravity low and go for the cutting. I personally would never lift my Jeep more than 4.5 to MAYBE 5 in, and I plan on running 35-36s by the time I am done on that much lift. Anything can be done with trimming, cut it, save the money, and keep the Center of gravity low. Do yourself a favor and rather than dropping money on more lift, get a real lift as opposed to the blocks/spacers you are running now, it will be well worth it rahter than trying to get a "budget" 6-7 in of lift, which would be horrible on and off road.

They sell pills for this......makes you an "above average" jeeper.:roll:


Seriously, to get to a 6" lift its not cheap to do it right, or make it perform, flex and ride worth anything. It always makes me laugh and roll my eyes when I see son lifted to the sky 6"-9" lifted XJ rolling around town with 33's and they still have the stock lower control arms, or aftermarket arms in the stock locations. And the sheeple assume that I either know, wheel, or think that is better than mine, because its bigger. I just smile and either ask f he wants to go wheelin or ask "Nice Jeep, take it off any sweet jumps?"

2" Rusty Coils = $99
.75" Shackles = $59
1.5" Add a Sag =$29
T-case Drop = $20

Total Price= $207
Plus the price of shocks and all of that fun stuff.

If you end up lifting more and wanna sell your Blocks and Spacers I need some for beater jeep.

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sonofa......

thats what I get for spending 20 minutes trying to figure out how to hide a link and then just saying f-it.

:moon:

Ebay for used parts, you def need lower control arms and some new springs up front. I've got an extra set of front control arms and some 4 inch coils, those with some sort of a bastard leaf pack you'll be good. I actually have some sprung under yj springs that would work for you too for a ghetto pack.

As far as a sye goes, with 8-9" I've been fine actually...lol. New spring perches with the pinon rotated up, a d44 which has a longer snout, and the longest stock driveshaft, I actually could have used more lift to keep it out of the t case. I didn't wanna polish up a 231 when an atlas should be there.... Whatever I wheel it and it works.

You could use new brake lines too, relocation and bending the old line straight may or may not be sufficent.

Go to your parts store and have them take you back to the shocks and search through the boxes trying to find the longest ones, I got some 28" extended shocks for like $14 a piece, lifetime warrantee.

Ditch the blocks, with a 1" it snapped my RE 4.5 main leaf right through and stabbed a hole in my floor. Also that axle wrap will do all sorts of fun things like snap rear yokes, driveshafts, and even in my case tcase outputs.

Remmber the cheap way usually breaks, fast. People say hack your fenders and run your tires with bump stops but I don't like seeing fresh rubber with fresh chunks.

The answer is what you don't wanna hear, save your money and do it right, because its works better done right and you actually end up saving money sometimes cause your not replacing sketchy crap that broke.

See, I disagree with the hacking fenders comment. I have hacked my fenders and havent bump stopped at all and when flexing I dont rub at all. The only cuts in my tires were caused by avoiding an accident and having to literally jump my jeep into a parking lot and landing in a pot hole, which sent my tire up into the fenders (this is before the cutting was finished, so under full flex it would rub). If done right cutting the fenders is the best thing you can do, it allows running larger tires for needed clearance, while keeping the center of gravity as low as possible. Esp if you do exploration types of wheeling in places where you can frequenly get into off camber situations, low COG is key, So if you do the cuts right and dont get stupid with stuff, its the best (and quite possbly one of the if not the cheapest) mods you can do.

themangeraaad said:

See, I disagree with the hacking fenders comment. I have hacked my fenders and havent bump stopped at all and when flexing I dont rub at all. The only cuts in my tires were caused by avoiding an accident and having to literally jump my jeep into a parking lot and landing in a pot hole, which sent my tire up into the fenders (this is before the cutting was finished, so under full flex it would rub). If done right cutting the fenders is the best thing you can do, it allows running larger tires for needed clearance, while keeping the center of gravity as low as possible. Esp if you do exploration types of wheeling in places where you can frequenly get into off camber situations, low COG is key, So if you do the cuts right and dont get stupid with stuff, its the best (and quite possbly one of the if not the cheapest) mods you can do.

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Nothing looks more gay, well besides meatspin.com, then an xj with poorly cut fenders.

And I can probably assume that only around 15% of the people on naxja that wheel get into a situation where center of gravity acually matter.

front: stack two 3" coil spacers on top of each other
back: stack two 3" blocks on top of each other

be sure and bolt everything down real tight!